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Technical ***July 2018 Banger Meet - A Midsummer Banger Dream***

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Jiminy, Jun 30, 2018.

  1. Shutter Speed
    Joined: Feb 2, 2017
    Posts: 942

    Shutter Speed
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Hello Binger,
    Been following your exploits all along, and have an unrelated stupid question that needs clarification...is it Binger, as in danger?, or Binger, as in stinger? I said it was stupid, but I hate calling people by the wrong name!
    Thx.
     
  2. V4F
    Joined: Aug 8, 2008
    Posts: 4,382

    V4F
    Member
    from middle ca.

  3. V4F
    Joined: Aug 8, 2008
    Posts: 4,382

    V4F
    Member
    from middle ca.

    check berts for "B" cover
     
  4. V4F
    Joined: Aug 8, 2008
    Posts: 4,382

    V4F
    Member
    from middle ca.

    12 vdc coils do not require the resistor , 6vdc does . ………… ill check temp on my coil today …….
     
  5. Shutter Speed
    Joined: Feb 2, 2017
    Posts: 942

    Shutter Speed
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    THANK YOU V4F ! Appreciate your help.
     
  6. Binger
    Joined: Apr 28, 2008
    Posts: 1,734

    Binger
    Member
    from wyoming

    Its Binger like stinger. my first name is John. so that is easier. HAHA Also check on 12V coils. Some have different resistance and will need an external resistor other ones do not as far as I know. I am using an equivalent to a Bosch blue coil. I think they came on volkswagons. I got it from Napa but cant remember the part number.
     
  7. Shutter Speed
    Joined: Feb 2, 2017
    Posts: 942

    Shutter Speed
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Thank you John! I've checked the tables for proper resistance range. I now own 4 coils, including the original (came with) 6v. Ohms are all over the place. Currently running the 12v that came from FSI (no resistor), and it's resistance is as it should be. My accidentally touching it, and saying "shit, that ain't right!", is what's leading me on this goose chase.

    So I swapped the 6v w/ added resistor...still hot. Can you tell me how yours feels to the touch at operating temp?

    My problem (one of them!) is I never thought to touch the coil when I ran a 6v system.
    I appreciate your input, and always enjoy your ongoing adventures!

    Art
     
  8. 97
    Joined: May 18, 2005
    Posts: 1,983

    97
    Member

    Your thermal engineer brother maybe correct in a general way, but his highly educated opinion does not have the advantage of experience , or the knowledge of most coil manufacturers' requirements.
    1/ The oil in that type of coil does not take up the whole space , as it is a sealed space it needs room to expand/contract. There are some air cooled type coils, which shouldn't matter.They are normally a different looking coil, not in a round metal case.
    2/The actual coils are set in the lower area of the case in most oil cooled coils, the manufacturer decides orientation.
    So Dan is correct when he says some coils should be mounted with the high tension terminal UP. I would actually say MOST of them.
    A long time ago I saw a Lucas coil which exploded ...blew a huge tear in the case . On investigation we were told by the Lucas rep that the coils had not been immersed in oil, he suggested that it had leaked or been mounted upside down...I don't know as I did not remove it from the car.
     
    Last edited: Jul 30, 2018
    Old Dawg and Crazydaddyo like this.
  9. winduptoy
    Joined: Feb 19, 2013
    Posts: 3,395

    winduptoy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    John,
    I'd fix that for you...... It needs to be preheated and post heated and cooled slowly. The correct way to do the heating is in an oven, which I don't have any more because I'm not doing this kind of work now. However, It can be heated with a weed burner with it resting on a Kaowool blanket. When the head is preheated to the correct temperature, it is torch welded with Nickle rod. Then the head gets wrapped completely in the Kaowool (ceramic) blanket to cool. I've fixed a butt load (engineering term) of busted pump castings this way before I had an oven. Just putting a torch to it won't do the job, Cast will stress crack all over with out a preheat and post cool. Also there is a question of the quality of the casting and how much trash is in it like casting sand. There is risk associated with attempting a repair as well but where the cracks are, I think it is minimal. Also if the casting is good, it can be preheated and MIG welded with Nickle rod. Again preheat and post cool are important but it doesn't have to be heated as hot as to gas weld.
    I'd suggest that you don't put brass on it just yet, if you do, it is done.
    Larry
     
    Old Dawg likes this.
  10. railcarmover
    Joined: Apr 30, 2017
    Posts: 777

    railcarmover

    I've done well on this build bartering labor for parts.Working on model A's and getting paid in parts? really? hell the last guy tossed in the cold beer (Pacifico,none of that Natty Ice shit)and this.Tuned his '30 cabriolet and adjusted the brakes,he fried a module in it by leaving his key on so he went back to points.So far the Snyder head and Miller/Serr header has come to me that way. I swapped 5 gallons of hydraulic oil for the Holley 94.
    Cheap ass? you betcha..
     

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  11. Binger
    Joined: Apr 28, 2008
    Posts: 1,734

    Binger
    Member
    from wyoming

    Thanks Larry. I sent you a PM
     
  12. Jiminy
    Joined: Oct 25, 2012
    Posts: 476

    Jiminy
    Member

  13. V4F
    Joined: Aug 8, 2008
    Posts: 4,382

    V4F
    Member
    from middle ca.

    info post ! this is for Jimski ... 1938talbot-lago.jpg

    this is for us old hippies …... areosmith van 1970.jpg

    that's all folks
     

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