Darrell, one of our club members is building a '27 Touring like the car Jughead drove in the Archy comics. We've been working on the chassis at my place for the past couple months. f-head designed and fabbed the rails with front and rear kicks. The car will look channeled but actually won't be, leaving plenty room inside to sit comfortably and not look like a cartoon. We're using a '33 front axle with '32 split bones in the front and '36 rear bones on a '49 Lincoln rear end. Should be able to smoke the hides like crazy.
Front crossmember is 3/16" coldrolled with a 1/4" bar inserted vertically inside. Perch material is 3/8" coldrolled
Nice lookin' chassis dd. What would be the dimensions of the frame rails? and the f/r kick? Thanks. Later, papa al
The tubing is 2"X3"X1/8". I'm at work now so I'll have to measure the Zs tonight and get back to you on that.
Looks great.Any pics with the body sittin on it?Are we gonna see it at the Unfinished Nats in Sept?......Shiny
Im putting together my 23T with a suicide front set up....Can I ask where you are gonna mount your upper shock mounts? Im not trying to be funny either
All I'm doing is getting the chassis done then it's going back to Darrell's place. Whether he gets it to the UnNats is up to him. Here's a shot of the center attachment of the rear bones.
The upper shock mounts in the front are going to be F-1s set at an angle with just the top 90 degree part bent, mounted at the leading edge of the frame rails.
Looks good. How is he going to get the rear set area lowered? The only thing I see that he needs to do is connect the rear wishbones back together and attach them to the crossmember like Ford did originally, the way he has it will allow the rear end to wobble because it's basically a paralellagram with a swivel at each heim and then at the shackles... also, the original Ford way will not bind... My two cents... Sam. p.s. keep us posted once he gets the body on it!
Sam, The rear bones will work like they are. Those are urethane bushings not heim ends. There will be enough flex in the wishbones attached that close to the center line. There will need to be some reinforcing done to the wishbones before we're done.
[ QUOTE ] The only thing I see that he needs to do is connect the rear wishbones back together and attach them to the crossmember like Ford did originally, the way he has it will allow the rear end to wobble because it's basically a paralellagram with a swivel at each heim and then at the shackles... also, the original Ford way will not bind... [/ QUOTE ] His set up is basically like Pete and Jakes ladder bars isn't it? Wouldn't a panhard bar fix the side to side wobble? BTW, I do agree that Henry's design is the best, but isn't this a close second? Neal
It shouldn't need a panhard bar once the rear spring is attached to a crossmember. The spring will prevent side to side movement. As an aside, I did add a panhard bar to my roadster. The side to side I got there was related to the fact that my shackles weren't at a 45 degree angle, closer to hanging. Panhard bars are needed with a transverse spring only if you're running extra long shackles. You're both right, Henry's design is better but this is a close second and yes, it's very similar to a P&J set up. To answer your first question Sam, There isn't going to be a rear seat unless he finds a flat gas tank short enough to fit next to the battery. It'll have a tonneau plus the rear doors will be welded shut since they won't open past the rear tires.
That looks GREAT. I can't wait to show my Father those photo's. I've been workin' on him since we went to Billetproof to do something with the nice T touring body he recently accuired, He's got a nailhead, six strombergs and I've got a spare set of 39 ford axles. Would make a quick build and I tell him he'd be the envy of all his friends if he was driving a topless, greasy, heap. How about a photo of the body on the chassis...
Anyone have any pics of the one that was in the comic? I tried to find one recently, but it seems the Archie website didn't think it an important enough artifact to make the website.
Getting back laverda, The front kick is 4" and the rear is 8". Notice in the pics how the rear kick is held forward enough to clear the rear wishbones. f-head put some thought into that one. I've seen a few cars with bent wishbones but I don't think that's a great idea. The way this is set up, none of Henry's stuff had to be heated.
Thanks dd ... I found 24' lengths of 2"x3" (.188 wall) for $90CAN up here in Winterpeg. Now if I could just weld later, papa al
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