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Projects John Wheeler's “Pink Hag” 35 Ford Rebuild

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by dugydog, Dec 26, 2020.

  1. dugydog
    Joined: Nov 28, 2008
    Posts: 319

    dugydog
    Member

    So over the last few months I've been thinking that I should start a thread to document the progress made on my 1935 Ford 3 Window Coupe that I purchased in December of 2018. The car had been owned by John Wheeler (1924-2014) and was raced back in the day with a 331 Cad motor and a 3-speed Lasalle transmission. The car appeared on drag strips in and around Indiana including competing in the NHRA Nationals from 1958 thru 1962 in a B/Gas class I don't think the car was particularly successful at the Nationals but nonetheless it was there which I think is pretty cool. When I purchased the car it had been in the middle of a *gasp* Street Rod conversion, which Wheeler had began sometime in the 80's I think. I knew immediately that this had been a terrible idea and perhaps Wheeler knew it as well and that's why the project had stalled, at any rate I decided I wanted this car to be rebuilt to it's prior racing configuration somewhere between 1958 and 1962. Most of the "bad stuff" that was done to the car consisted mostly of chassis modifications and not so much to the body. In fact it still maintains it's Pink hue, "Mountian Laurel", you Cadillac guys know what I'm talking about, in fact Wheeler would pull this car to the drag strip in a matching colored '50 something Cadillac. Included in the purchase were many items that Wheeler saved including a vintage 331 Cadillac Motor, 39 Lasalle 3-speed, Weiand Drag Star intake, Magneto, Front cross member, steering box bracket that had been adapted to accept the '40 Ford box etc. etc. It's been kind a little like archeology trying to figure out how the chassis was setup. I feel like I should have started this thread 2 years ago but I honestly thought I would be driving this thing by now but I'm sure you all know how that goes. In fact I can summarize the last 2 years pretty quickly or at least give you guys the Readers Digest version of events:
    Removed all the Mustang II crap that was welded to the front-end and installed the front cross member and an original straight axle with F1 brakes and '40 wheels.
    Had the 331 motor completely gone through, complete with adjustable rockers.
    Removed the rear disc brake setup and mounted 9inch Ford old style backing plates to the axles.
    Had the '39 side shift Lasalle rebuilt and purchased a 3 speed Hurst shifter with mounting plate etc.
    Waiting for a new clutch, throw out bearing and pressure plate.
    Removed the body so I can start to figure out how the motor and trans will fit and if I can figure out the pedal assembly etc.
    So that's about it for now, I'll now attempt a few pictures
     

    Attached Files:

  2. dugydog
    Joined: Nov 28, 2008
    Posts: 319

    dugydog
    Member

    I picked up my resurfaced flywheel, new pressure plate, clutch disc, and throw out bearing. I bolted it together torquing down the flywheel bolts etc. I was surprised the torque spec for the pressure plate was only 18 ft lbs. according to my shop manual. Maybe I should’ve used locktite? It’s not too late I still have to install the flywheel cover. Tomorrow I’ll put a pipe on the clutch fork and make sure that the clutch disc comes off the flywheel. Would really like to get the motor and trans set in the chassis soon. IMG_0656.JPG IMG_0657.JPG IMG_0659.JPG


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  3. dugydog
    Joined: Nov 28, 2008
    Posts: 319

    dugydog
    Member

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  4. alanp561
    Joined: Oct 1, 2017
    Posts: 5,018

    alanp561
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Don't stop now;)
     
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  5. Roothawg
    Joined: Mar 14, 2001
    Posts: 25,250

    Roothawg
    Member

    You ain’t lying....
     
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  6. hotrodjack33
    Joined: Aug 19, 2019
    Posts: 4,441

    hotrodjack33
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Looks like it was a great car to start with...and has history too. I love it.
     
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  7. chiro
    Joined: Jun 23, 2008
    Posts: 1,222

    chiro
    Member

    I've seen this car in person and it is an amazingly cool piece of Hot Rod history. Keep going Doug.
    Andy
     
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  8. bassemir
    Joined: Feb 16, 2008
    Posts: 17

    bassemir
    Member

    You have made some good progress since I was there Doug. I like the idea of starting this build log.
     
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  9. dugydog
    Joined: Nov 28, 2008
    Posts: 319

    dugydog
    Member

    Today I’m working on getting the motor mocked up. I thought all along that the hurst-like motor mounts I bolted to the engine block would allow me to use the original holes in the cross member to set the motor, however as I lowered the motor over the Ford rubber biscuit the bottom of the oil pan hits the cross member. The motor does seem too IMG_0678.JPG IMG_0679.JPG far forward so I guess I’ll need to get a mount behind the cross member? Unless I’m missing something?


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  10. dugydog
    Joined: Nov 28, 2008
    Posts: 319

    dugydog
    Member

    Ok my friend just came over and told me what the problem is. Rather than admit it I’ll let you guys figure it out.


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  11. dugydog
    Joined: Nov 28, 2008
    Posts: 319

    dugydog
    Member

    Ok after some more consideration and pondering we still don’t know what the problem is


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  12. dugydog
    Joined: Nov 28, 2008
    Posts: 319

    dugydog
    Member

    I’m continuing with the mock-up and bolted up a 35 Cowl that I had (remember when we bought this Rich?) also the inner fenders. I love the way Wheeler just torched a hole in them for the headers! Still trying to get the motor in the right spot IMG_0587.JPG


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  13. AHotRod
    Joined: Jul 27, 2001
    Posts: 12,262

    AHotRod
    Member

    I love old drag Coupes ...
     
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  14. slv63
    Joined: Aug 4, 2008
    Posts: 151

    slv63
    Member

    Sweet project. It looks like the body and paint are good enough to leave as-is. The patina looks awesome. What are your plans?
     
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  15. dugydog
    Joined: Nov 28, 2008
    Posts: 319

    dugydog
    Member

  16. wheeldog57
    Joined: Dec 6, 2013
    Posts: 3,534

    wheeldog57
    Member

    Title caught my attention as I am a Wheeler also.
    I have an uncle John (mother's brother) Hines
    Who has a 35 3 window street rod in Philly-ironic.
    Your car is wicked! That drivetrain is bad ass.
    Going to be an awesome ride, keep us in the loop
     
  17. Keep the fender well holes, you'll need them to change the spark plugs.
     
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  18. petelightning
    Joined: Sep 20, 2017
    Posts: 12

    petelightning
    Member

    is the trans attached and bolted in and the motor still hits?
     
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  19. dugydog
    Joined: Nov 28, 2008
    Posts: 319

    dugydog
    Member

    Trans is not bolted in yet in fact once I get the motor where I think it should be I’ll work on a trans mount. I ordered 1 1/2 in. spacers from Speedway that will attach to the top of the Ford mounts. I’m hoping this will give me the clearance I need so the oil pan clears the u-bolts on the crossmember.


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  20. Dangerousdan
    Joined: Apr 12, 2018
    Posts: 340

    Dangerousdan
    Member
    from Arizona

    Old school. I like it.
     
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  21. nosnhojguy
    Joined: Dec 9, 2014
    Posts: 82

    nosnhojguy
    Member

    A car taking longer than you planned ,hard to imagine. You started another build thread but I still following you. I told you I would regret selling it to you. Saw your brothers car also.
     
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  22. dugydog
    Joined: Nov 28, 2008
    Posts: 319

    dugydog
    Member





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  23. dugydog
    Joined: Nov 28, 2008
    Posts: 319

    dugydog
    Member

    Hey Doug, I hope at least I’m rebuilding the car as you would have done. I know you’d have done it faster!

    Well I got the spacers from Speedway today and they worked great. It corrected the problem I had with the oil pan resting on the u-bolts of the cross member. IMG_0730.JPG


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  24. Johnny Wheeler was a good friend of mine and fellow club brother. 25 or so years ago some of the street rodders in the club talked him into up-dating the car. I pleaded with him not to do it but he wouldn't listen. Thank God none of the guys in the club who were paint and body guys got a hold of any of the sheet metal.
    Glad you are saving this car!!

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  25. Corn Fed
    Joined: May 16, 2002
    Posts: 3,328

    Corn Fed
    Member

    Nice Coupe.
    You really ought to get the radiator set in place so you know you have clearance up front.
     
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  26. dugydog
    Joined: Nov 28, 2008
    Posts: 319

    dugydog
    Member

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  27. dugydog
    Joined: Nov 28, 2008
    Posts: 319

    dugydog
    Member

    This morning I test fit the clearance between the water pump and the radiator. I have about 1 3/4 inches between the face of the water pump (where the fan mounts) and the radiator and about 8 1/4 inches from the center of the water pump face down to the radiator outlets. Since I don’t currently have a fan for the motor I checked the 390 motor in my ‘57. That fan had like a 2 or 3 inch spacer to get it closer to the radiator which obviously is not a requirement for me but the overall diameter is about 18 inches which in my case would be too long as the blades won’t clear the bottom water outlets. So I’m looking for measurements or photos of anybody that may have an early 1949ish Cadillac fan. Thanks! IMG_0733.JPG


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  28. dugydog
    Joined: Nov 28, 2008
    Posts: 319

    dugydog
    Member

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  29. lippy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2006
    Posts: 6,848

    lippy
    Member
    from Ks

    Can you stick the trans in and mate up to the rearend? That would tell you. Lippy
     
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  30. VF-1
    Joined: Jan 21, 2021
    Posts: 160

    VF-1
    Member

    Very cool! Following along!
     
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