The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by V4F, Dec 31, 2012.
Heres a different looking Banger powered car making its debut at the dirt dyno.
How did it run John?
CDO, not bad at all.
We had a pretty boring day of it, no leaks or broken anything.
I hit a depression at about 80 and bumped the inertia switch. Yes, it rattled my head around the cage pretty good too.
Doing some finishing on the body and getting ready for May.
cool! Any more info or pics?
I have just ordered cowl lamps for my 1928 model A tudor. It seems the mounting location and methology is some kind of mystery to be left up to my imagination.
So far I have figured out that they actually mount to some kind of brace I will have to fabricate inside of the cowl and just slip through a hole in the cowl itself. Anybody got any info, measurements, inside pictures of a proper installation anywhere?
Many thanks for any help or direction.
Is that the Dodd head?
yes, the DODD head has been modified and currently on the car.
I am looking for another design casting for next motor.
Not too sure yet, Gemsa or possibly Rutherford or ...
I have a couple more pics I can post later
more pics from debut.
pretty simple, mod B block
everything else custom built not from Ford
as Newman said once, "it has been the most fun you can have with your pants on"
Ooh - there's a lovely view!
Looks like a lot of fun !!!!!!
Good luck with it.
bangers are always fun . mine is very modified for ez use & fun
Interesting post on the Barn today, 5 main A block,
What would you consider the weakest point on your motor? and what could be done to fix i? ie rods or crankshaft.
on a banger its the center main . balance / counter weight / inserts .
UPS man dropped my Brierley SU-1R cam off today...what a work of art!
All of the cranks that I have broke or have seen break have been at the #4 throw were it meets the rod journal. all have had too small of a fillet radius were the journal meets the throw.
What is the fix? Bigger radius will help, but the only way to prevent it is to stay under 70 HP. OR Billet crank with 5 mains.
There have been issues with the A rear flange breaking of. There is a relief cut into the face of the flange that has a sharp edge. That is a place for a crack to start. I've seen people weld that up before the crank is ground.
The Scat crank looks like is should hold up. The engine that Taylor engine is building for my dad will have one of their cranks.
We are both going to steel main caps too.
I like the idea of the thrust bearing being on the rear main.
Balance everything within a .5 gram.
I've never seen or heard of someone breaking a crank because they had babbit bearings.
Thanks guys you are confirming my thoughts I do talk offline to some who dont post here and some think that the Scat crank may be too heavy at around 65 lbs I dont know as I have not held on however the general opinion is put a radius on the crank journals as Dan is saying shell bearings steel caps proper oiling and have a look at some new rods. It use to be that the Claas header (g28) motor was the one to use here in N.Z. but most I have seen used for performance broke the rear flang off straight away good motor but they are basicly a stationary motor as used on the header harvester no need for a grunty back flang this is why I floated this question just wanted to get the general feeling of those doing it not those who may have read a book somewhere I learnt a long time ago you dont do that.
Thanks Dan your post pretty much nails it for me just checking never hurts.
Any thoughts on the Burlington cranks?
They are too small for the B block. Not drilled for pressure. I asked a shop if they could drill it. They said they tried on one and kept breaking drills. They said they would have to charge @ $500 to do another one.
I have to agree with Crazydaddyo That Babbit bearings are very forgiving many years ago I corresponded with Wes Cooper he swore by them Ed Winfields comment was terse "I would sooner pound soft babbit than pound hardened steel bearings can be replaced steel shatters" guess pouring bearings have become a lost art. Ever seen it done I have and have done it interesting process but make sure they are bored in line and the shims fit well to the crank.
Got to say that my current engine has inserts.
Scat catalog says that the crank weighs 36 lbs.
Stock B counter weighted crank is 45 lbs.
I know if I have to ask, I probably can't afford it, but....
What is the cost of the 7-A-4250 Scat crankshaft?
Like I said.....
Sent from my DROID device using the TJJ mobile app
Crazydaddyo food for thought there would love to see progress pics of your dads engine for those who dont know crazys dads motor is similar to mine we will both use a rutherford overhead. Living out here in NZ it is rare to see an overhead yet alone get information on them crazy has helped me in the past and I am very greatfull. It is muscle car madness this weekend here our biggest car display I will see if I can get someone with a better computer than mine to upload some photos.
Here is a resent picture of his last engine:
When you guys say the cranks need to be ground with large radii, what do you consider large? 1/8 inch? or bigger?
those are sad pix ......... bummer
That looks expensive!
yep there is no cheap way out !!!! I bet dad said golly gosh and firetruck before changing his underwear that motor was sounding so nice as well.
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