Bringing the axle closer to the frame by reversing the eyes on an A spring, or using a T spring still brings the axle closer to the frame. Same result in a sedan. Bottom out with a 200+ pound adult/adults in the back. If you kick up the frame right in front of the crossmember say 2 inches and then work with an A spring, your axle is farther away from the crossmember for bottoming out on the frame, but the body appears to be lower. Or.... you don't ride with any adults in the back. Only kids and good looking skinny women. (I'm confident you'll put the good looking skinny women up front next to you though, right?) If you have the T spring, just try that first and see how you like it. Easy change and easy to change back. Take an hour, remove your rear wheels, jack up the rear end, remove the four bolts holding the A spring to the frame, un-do the shackles, put the T spring in there and bolt it all back together. It should take you 2 hours tops if you're working really slow and taking breaks.
Thanks! If you can get the measurements I would really appreciate it. The cam and lifters I got from HH, 335 lift 280 deg duration, and large base lifters (1.6 ish? I don't remember). Elrod's coupe was definitely the inspiration for the t rear spring, I figure the car being a roadster I won't have too much issue. Even with the rumble seat I will not have much weight in the back. In front I have a 3" drop axle for a little more organic shape and 32 perches that I will modify a bit to hold the mechanical brakes. Worst case I can always work with the A spring.
I am using a stock A bellhousing. I got the adapter plate from auto restoration. i will call and get the disk from him. thank you!
I have already built a crossmember that bolts in and supports the rear of the transmission. Sorry i dont have any pics if that.
Good to hear form you! the progress is a little slow right now i am working on an OT pickup with my step son. just put it into primer and with any luck we will be putting it into paint in a couple of weeks. as soon as that rolls out of the shop I am back on the coupe.
I T springed (sprung?) my Tudor. It looked good but with people in the back it bottomed out really good. I have since added a leaf from my A spring to the T spring and added shocks. It raised it about a 1/2 inch more than this pic. When I get the brakes done I will see how it rides. Here is a pic with T spring stock front axle reversed eye front spring with 2 leaves removed. the tires are 650X16 all 4
I did not remove the little beveled one but the next one down then skipped one and then the next. So two shorter ones. I did not remove any from the rear T spring, in fact I added a leaf. Someday I will run a 32-34 front axle and spindles
No, I'm about done with a 40-48 juice brake conversion. I just thought I could use more original parts going the 32-34 route and I really like the subtle drop.
Thanks for the info. I want to lower my Tudor but haven't decided how to do it yet. I have a dropped A axle and a 33-34 axle and perches. I'm vacillating over the brake set up. If I go dropped, then I'll go Hydraulic. If I stick with Mech. , then I will go 32-34. Mine with 17" fronts and 18" rear:
Nice tudor, CDO! I'm like you...but I have brakes for both, not axles. I have 3 stock A axles, but one is getting dropped this spring. I need to find a set of 32 front perches just in case I stay mechanical. Sent from my DROID device using the TJJ mobile app
I'm not sure about the windshild frame but I can take some pics and you can tell me what it is. I'm told that my car was born a Standard and is somewhat rare for the 31's. As for the carbs, it came with two 97's and a mag. The whole fuel system was being choked out with cotton from what I believe was a mouse nest in the stock tank. I just finished rebuilding both carbs with an array of genuine parts and plumbed a spun tank and parts store fuel pump 2/3 psi. Jets are the old 45's and the mains are new 65's (stock). This is just the initial test run with the pump rigged and the carbs at initial settings. I plan on dialing in the carbs and brakes for a full road test but here's a teaser shot of the first run. Seems to start and run very good so far for how cold it is. Notice when I take off it putters a bit. Maybe cause the manual choke and it being cold outside and motor not totally warmed up. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A3H6x2BTctI Check my other videos for the Stromberg 97 rebuild. Part 1 is long but pretty good and part two isn't uploaded yet but will be soon. My plan tomorrow is to button up the fuel system and rack the car giving it a full shake down at my mechanic friends house. We will also attempt to also dial the brakes with it up in the air. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v2FHaX8pIJc I noticed that there is fuel dripping on the inside of the carb when sitting and idling, the other carb doesn't seem to do this. I'm thinking the float might be too high in that carb or it's not sealing inside. Could this be normal? Dripping even when not running? After I mess with the float on the one I will attempt to tune them by playing with the air/fuel and idle screws and syncing them with a new style sync tool. Well see how it runs after that.
Here is a link to a 97 tuning procedure that I did a while back: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=6638449#post6638449 If you are seeing drips, then something is leaking. Float could be too high, or if you are running a fuel pump, pressure may be too high. . .
This pile of aluminum will be an intake in a couple weeks... Now I just have to finalize if I am going with three progressive or two carbs straight.
Hey guys, I am converting by 28 roadster to juice brakes, I have the front completed but I am having problems with the rear. What is the easiest way to convert the original rear end to juice? I've searched but came up with no definate answer. any help would be great, thanks, Shaun
Check out http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=124112&highlight=juice+brakes located in the tech archives
Elrod, do you have any problems with front tires rubbing when turning into or out of driveways? I like the stance but I'm concerned with front tires rubbing. Thanks
No tire rub on the tierod. The spindles arms actually touch the axle before the tire would be able to. Turn radius is actually decreased a little bit, but I spend 0.5% of my time driving in circles.
I actually was interested in rubbing on the fenders like when you back out of a driveway with the steering locked all the way. My coupe with a 32 axle and leaves removed from the spring would rub on the inside of the fender, may be 32 axle is wider than the A.
bill i have basically the same set-up (i copied his car) with no tire rubbing . 750x16 rear & 600x16 fronts .............
While reading the replies to my question and looking at the photos I remembered that my late 31 coupe is sitting on a 29 frame with 29 fenders so there could be a little difference.
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