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Technical ***January 2022 Banger Meet Thread - Bring it on 2022***

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Jiminy, Jan 1, 2022.

  1. s.e.charles
    Joined: Apr 25, 2018
    Posts: 109

    s.e.charles

  2. Jet96
    Joined: Dec 24, 2012
    Posts: 1,356

    Jet96
    Member
    from WY

    Checking in for twenty two too. Colder than a well-digger's blasthole (-9°) this new year's so no cruising. Was given another 4 banger project tho: 58314897-E52C-4B2D-8A34-BBC38F3ABC3F.jpeg
     
  3. Nice '28 engine :D
     
    Jet96 likes this.
  4. grumpy gaby 2
    Joined: Aug 10, 2019
    Posts: 215

    grumpy gaby 2
    Member

    Great start for one of the other bangers!
     
    winduptoy and Jet96 like this.
  5. Another year...Another racing season! I'll participate as a Volunteer Driving Instructor this month (22nd & 23rd) at Vintage Auto Racing Assoc. (VARA) Univ. of VARA at Buttonwillow Raceway. It's a school for driver's seeking, not only Competition Licenses'; but how to drive their performance street cars. We'll go to Sonoma Raceway on April to race. Back to Buttonwillow in May to race. We are gathering the planning committee to put on the "Banger" time trials (formerly F.A.S.T.) on a possible date in June at the historic Santa Margarita Ranch. In August we plan to go to Laguna Seca's vintage car races (if invited). Then back to Laguna Seca for the Velocity Invitational.
    (photo by Dani McEachern)
    McEarchen2021(1).jpg
     
  6. Airborne34
    Joined: Dec 4, 2007
    Posts: 572

    Airborne34
    Member

    Folks need some help identifying some banger adapters I have. They fit the Holly/Stromberg carb, but no idea what manifold they are for.

    793EE49C-9D3C-4FA9-8F1A-E5EB85A6BE52.jpeg 060C1009-7D2B-490D-8B54-5A735C316AF2.jpeg 28AD0FD5-81B1-42D3-AB14-66D8918BE1A4.jpeg 115300FC-F40E-4C5F-AC0F-7A19145D0411.jpeg 793EE49C-9D3C-4FA9-8F1A-E5EB85A6BE52.jpeg 060C1009-7D2B-490D-8B54-5A735C316AF2.jpeg 28AD0FD5-81B1-42D3-AB14-66D8918BE1A4.jpeg 115300FC-F40E-4C5F-AC0F-7A19145D0411.jpeg
     
  7. Kevin Pharis
    Joined: Aug 22, 2020
    Posts: 292

    Kevin Pharis

    Those are universal Stromberg to 2 bolt adapters...
     
    Old Dawg and winduptoy like this.
  8. kweb1936
    Joined: Jan 30, 2012
    Posts: 19

    kweb1936
    Member
    from salem il.

    F5218202-F41C-4D9A-9758-C854798037D1.jpeg Slowly getting there
     
  9. Crazydaddyo
    Joined: Apr 6, 2008
    Posts: 3,226

    Crazydaddyo
    Member

    270503421_10219657119474389_325684305281527399_n.jpg 270869941_10219657119354386_5175424609071361867_n.jpg 271246999_10219657119634393_7986131621078544934_n.jpg

    Got my Burtz block kits yesterday.


    .
     
    Russ B, brjnelson, Old Dawg and 8 others like this.
  10. Stovebolt
    Joined: May 2, 2001
    Posts: 3,427

    Stovebolt
    Member

    a much awaited delivery of some prime hot rod material @Crazydaddyo

    Enjoy the fruits of your patience.
     
    Crazydaddyo likes this.
  11. raaf
    Joined: Aug 27, 2002
    Posts: 656

    raaf
    Member

    Happy '22 all.

    @Crazydaddyo - congrats! I'd love to see more as things progress.
     
    Crazydaddyo likes this.
  12. burl
    Joined: Nov 28, 2007
    Posts: 770

    burl
    Member
    from Minnesota

    checking in been working pretty steady on this pile. Found another A engine on market place looks pretty good inside.@brjnelson stopped by and teased me by letting me try on this funny looking carb for size side.jpg db sub rails.jpg banger.jpg internals.jpg dash.jpg carb.jpg brakes.jpg CH=full]5278859[/ATTACH]
     
    Last edited: Jan 5, 2022
  13. winduptoy
    Joined: Feb 19, 2013
    Posts: 2,630

    winduptoy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I got a shipping notification.
    I ran off all the help in September and closed the business so had to make alternative shipping arrangements.
    I won't see the stuff until I get back in March.
    Looks like a pretty packaging job for sure.
    Interested in seeing what's inside and how it goes together...let us know
     
    Jet96, G Baese and Crazydaddyo like this.
  14. Kevin Pharis
    Joined: Aug 22, 2020
    Posts: 292

    Kevin Pharis

    Only thing funny lookin bout that carb... is that there’s only 1!;)

    EB39B8D8-DCB7-4E49-8457-3BF18608C3BC.jpeg
     
    winduptoy, Old Dawg, ottoman and 3 others like this.
  15. And it's not all shiny 'n stuff :D
     
  16. brjnelson
    Joined: Oct 13, 2002
    Posts: 550

    brjnelson
    Member

    It was too big for you anyway ;)
     
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  17. 5280A2
    Joined: Sep 8, 2014
    Posts: 143

    5280A2

    Watch out for that early 28 crankshaft, it might ruin your day sometime.

    Crankshaft3.jpg
     
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  18. Kevin Pharis
    Joined: Aug 22, 2020
    Posts: 292

    Kevin Pharis

    Eeeewwww!!! Never a good thing!

    I wonder... a common reason for T and A crank failure at the journal radius is a regrind with undersized corner radius...?
     
  19. 4bangerbob
    Joined: Jun 29, 2013
    Posts: 63

    4bangerbob
    Member
    from AB, Canada

    Could be rod bearing failure, seeing as it appears babbit melted and came out of the dipper, rod seized on the crank?
    But I could be wrong. rod bearing failure I experienced resulted in rod bearing completely wiped out and rotating assembly surviving during the short time that the motor ran as I stopped as soon as I heard the knocking.
     
    Old Dawg likes this.
  20. burl
    Joined: Nov 28, 2007
    Posts: 770

    burl
    Member
    from Minnesota

    Why do you think it’s early 28 crank ? Motor number comes back as mid 29 and the guy claimed it was all original parts when rebuild
     
    Old Dawg likes this.
  21. Kevin Pharis
    Joined: Aug 22, 2020
    Posts: 292

    Kevin Pharis

    Crank webs have the characteristic “beaver tail” or diamond shape. Later production had rectangular webs
     
    Old Dawg likes this.
  22. burl
    Joined: Nov 28, 2007
    Posts: 770

    burl
    Member
    from Minnesota

    Thanks Kevin so somebody must have just went in there parts bin and pieced a motor together
    My plan was to get things running with this and build another motor from parts I have around.
     
  23. The fillet radius is a possibility, but if you think about it, on a .040 under crank you only have .020 potential radius to grind in. Even if you had .060 radius on the wheel, you still leave a stress riser.
    On some of the cranks we have built, the fillet is .125 and that causes other clearance issues.
    That picture shows a welded on counterweight, I would bet it broke just due to the crank being too small and over revved. Also the break is not on #4, that is where most will break trying to transmit all the power to flywheel end.
    John
     
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  24. 282doorUK
    Joined: Mar 6, 2015
    Posts: 143

    282doorUK

    Thanks for that link Spendy, nice pics and descriptions and I learned a lot ..
     
  25. 5280A2
    Joined: Sep 8, 2014
    Posts: 143

    5280A2

    The fillet radii of that crankshaft may have been a contributing factor, but there were other forces at work also. The week before it broke I had run my roadster pickup at the Northwood, IA F.A.S.T. hill climb, so there may be some small truth to the statement about over-revving. I freely admit to revving it as far as it would go in 1/10th mile (smiley-face). But also I had been noticing, mostly while cruising at 55+ mph a tendency for the engine to feel like it was surging or fighting with itself. After I also broke the successor to the pictured crankshaft a year later, again a week or so after the F.A.S.T. meet, I finally learned about symptoms of too much spark advance with high compression heads, and now believe that was the primary reason for the breakage. I had my distributor set up for 32 degrees of total advance and in retrospect think that my skinny Model A crankshafts were being twisted to the point of failure. The replacement crank that subsequently broke was 0.020 under on both rods and mains and had been carefully prepped and ground, and had been magnafluxed and straightened after counterweights were welded on. I was really disappointed with the longevity of that crank because I had expended quite a bit of effort to find a good core and it was prepped pretty carefully.

    Fast forward (no pun intended) the next step involved a Burlington crankshaft, McEachern steel main caps, Skokie forged rods. inserts and pressure oil to the mains. Still taking the abuse nine years later. Most importantly the distributor now has a stop at 24 degrees of advance and there has been no sign of the surge or fighting itself that was apparent before the advance was limited. I hope this explanation helps someone else starting out to avoid my experience.

    For 4bangerbob, I just finished a mild build for the 30 Coupe in my avatar. The rods from the picture in the post with the broken crank are now at work in that motor. What may have looked like melted babbit is where the stub of the broken crank dinged up the thrust face on the side of the rod. A lot of time went into weight-matching those rods, so I thought I might as well try to use them. They have also gone down the track in Northwood in 2020.
     
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  26. Thanks for the explanation and you are exactly correct, timing can just destroy a motor, among other equipment.
    I broke a couple driveshafts out of the engine dyno learning that. The combustion chamber shape directly contributes to the efficiency and correspondingly the timing required is a good indictor.

    John
     
  27. 5280A2
    Joined: Sep 8, 2014
    Posts: 143

    5280A2

    Agree 100% on chamber design; I am running a repro Winfield with the crow's foot chamber. Seems to do a good job creating turbulence and combustion efficiency.
     
  28. denis4x4
    Joined: Apr 23, 2005
    Posts: 3,885

    denis4x4
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Colorado

    EC08F39A-D233-47F7-871C-ED2849C4D05A.jpeg

    Got my Secrets of Speed Society magazine and saw this ad.
     
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  29. brjnelson
    Joined: Oct 13, 2002
    Posts: 550

    brjnelson
    Member

    Hey Miles, How well does the new build start below freezing??
    I have some extra tire studs, find some rubber and we can set you up to ICE RACE!
    POLAR DEVILS BABY!
    OR be a tough guy and bring the roadster pkup.

    https://www.polardevils.com/
     
    Jet96, winduptoy and 5280A2 like this.
  30. Kevin Pharis
    Joined: Aug 22, 2020
    Posts: 292

    Kevin Pharis

    I follow your logic, and it makes sense... but only if you start with a perfectly sharp corner. The factory grind is somewhere between .062” and .125” radius, and a regrind of any undersize can easily reproduce an equivalent corner radius without a stress riser

    Over revving, detonation, imbalance, and harmonics couldn’t have helped the situation either...:eek:
     

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