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Technical ***January 2020 Banger Thread. Happy New Year!***

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Jiminy, Dec 31, 2019.

  1. burl
    Joined: Nov 28, 2007
    Posts: 612

    burl
    Member
    from Minnesota

    Starting off the new year getting stuff done.Pulling the engine for a rebuild. banger.jpg
     
  2. railcarmover
    Joined: Apr 30, 2017
    Posts: 259

    railcarmover

    ignorance? bah...Look at the tops of the teeth to get an idea of tooth wear,the face of the tooth for chuks and 'fretting' lines across the face.this picture has good examples of what to look for.Drain and flush the case before inspecting,gear oil gives a false 'reading'
    [​IMG]
     
  3. Shutter Speed
    Joined: Feb 2, 2017
    Posts: 665

    Shutter Speed
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Thank you sir. I find it only helps to ask around here.

    And thank you. That’s a scary picture. What’s best to flush with that won’t leave residue when the fresh oil goes in?
     
  4. V4F
    Joined: Aug 8, 2008
    Posts: 3,981

    V4F
    Member
    from middle ca.

    kerosene works well
     
  5. Shutter Speed
    Joined: Feb 2, 2017
    Posts: 665

    Shutter Speed
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    ^^You got me goin now...thanks.^^
    Art
     
  6. railcarmover
    Joined: Apr 30, 2017
    Posts: 259

    railcarmover

    The transmission is one are where Ford precision tolerances didn't insure complete interchangeability,assemblers at the Rouge had a number of sliding and cluster gears at his station to 'fit' the best combination.Your best bet if you need new gears is to find a good used trans and put new bearings in it.
     
    Old Dawg likes this.
  7. Shutter Speed
    Joined: Feb 2, 2017
    Posts: 665

    Shutter Speed
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Wow. Sounds like Eli Whitney’s interchangeable parts fit better. Got the trans flushed and draining, but got too damn cold in the barn to get the rear end jacked-up and spinning for a close inspection.

    Could use a little more Earth-warming...open exhausts, everyone! Fingers crossed.
    Thanks for the advice.
     
    Dannerr likes this.
  8. Midnight Rider
    Joined: May 13, 2010
    Posts: 26

    Midnight Rider
    Member
    from Australia

    Happy New Year all Banger Boys.
    My New Year's Resolution is to get another banger on the road.
    I have to pull the V860 out of this one first, but that want take long.
    Have a Brierley Headed banger and 5 Speed going together for it.
    Will update as I can.
    DSCN9902.JPG
     
    Dannerr, Old Dawg, brjnelson and 4 others like this.
  9. Binger
    Joined: Apr 28, 2008
    Posts: 1,626

    Binger
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from wyoming

    IMG_2602.JPG 59976921218__03B7DCDE-C9AB-46B7-B9D6-842DE64D1078.JPG 59977624457__6A962A3A-5589-42A2-88BA-EF478D61285A.JPG IMG_2611.JPG

    Working on my friends engine swap. Got both motors out and one back in so far. A few things to button up in the sedan then on to the new motor to put in the roadster.


    Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
     
    Dannerr, Jet96, Old Dawg and 6 others like this.
  10. Shutter Speed
    Joined: Feb 2, 2017
    Posts: 665

    Shutter Speed
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    ^^ Very inspiring..go man! ^^
     
  11. PhredH
    Joined: Feb 28, 2015
    Posts: 64

    PhredH

    Remote Oil Filter on Banger

    I am adding a remote oil filter to my Model A block, as the Scalded Dog "Y" headers do not allow for the handy Mikes Affordable valve cover set up.

    I have filled the wide grooves (see photo) at the top of the oil pump to force oil out of the block at the factory threaded hole, through a filter, and then will return the oil back into the valve chamber through a fitting in the front of the valve cover. This should give a full/nearly full flow filtering system.

    1) How will the distributor drive gear and center cam journal get oiled as the cavity above the oil pump is now sealed/restricted?

    Is there enough "leakage" past the top of the oil pump to provide sufficient oiling?

    Will I want to carve a tiny groove vertically in the plugged portion of the oil pump to let a "little" oil past?

    Or is the distributor drive gear and center cam journal oiled from another source?

    2) While the engine is torn down, this is also a good time to add pressurized oil to the center main cap that is fitted with AER inserted bearings in a similar fashion as in the next photo.

    Would any oil bleeding off to the center main affect the effectiveness of of the oil filtering?

    Thanks in advance for any experienced opinions.
    Peace, Phred Oil Pump.jpg centermainoiler-a.jpg
     
    Dannerr likes this.
  12. Pattern making today. Rear drop. Much math. Many redo’s. All for 6”.


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
     
    Last edited: Jan 5, 2020
    Dannerr, winduptoy, chop job and 5 others like this.
  13. BeaverMatt
    Joined: Jun 17, 2013
    Posts: 22

    BeaverMatt
    Member

    Happy New Year folks! Any tips or tricks on rebuilding Model B fuel pumps? I have a B engine out of an old farm truck. I've been running it on a stand using a small gravity feed fuel tank. Ready to get the fuel pump to join the party.
     
  14. I've just ordered a rebuild kit of the interwebs to do just that myself. I have a couple of working pumps but figured I'd get a new diaphragm as I've had one go leaky in the past.
     
    BeaverMatt likes this.
  15. Dedsoto
    Joined: Jan 7, 2014
    Posts: 36

    Dedsoto
    Member
    from Australia
    1. Aussie HAMBers

    Just went through this, I bought mine loose, 12 studs at 3.5" (ARP# AP3.500-1LB) and two at 6" (ARP# AP6.000-1LB) and two packs of nuts (ARP# 200-8635)

    Hope this helps
     
    winduptoy likes this.
  16. burl
    Joined: Nov 28, 2007
    Posts: 612

    burl
    Member
    from Minnesota

    Got the banger pulled out of the coupe this weekend.Now I need to decide to rebuild myself or send it somewhere.The line boring and cylinder boring are about the only things I cant do myself.I looks like by the time you buy all of the parts its about the same to have it done by a good shop. banger rebuild.jpg
     
    winduptoy and barrnone50 like this.
  17. ghalperin
    Joined: Dec 10, 2012
    Posts: 185

    ghalperin
    Member

    Calling all Winfield SR Carb experts!

    My SR B carb stopped working. The stock tank is flowing fuel to the carb. The float will be full, but the carb is not delivering gas to the manifold. It ran great until it stopped, so it’s not fuel delivery to the carb. It ran great with the gravity feed, so I don’t think the fuel needs to be pressure fed.

    I’ve taken it apart several times trying to find any issues and today I completely disassembled the carb and soaked it in the ultrasonic tank for a couple of hours. I've poked thin wire through all the accessible ports and blew through everything. The only things that I couldn't get apart are the high speed nozzle and the accelerator pump check valve. The high speed nozzle flows carb spray, so it should be ok. The pump check valve shouldn't cause it not to start. The copper coating turned out to be paint, so I'm glad that's gone.

    Does anybody have any SR specific diagrams or photos of the accelerator pump check valve disassembled?

    I placed a couple of 1/8" drill bits in two of the holes for the pump check valve and promptly bent the drill bits while cranking with a large crescent wrench. I’m gonna keep trying. I would think that it should start with the fuel bowl filled. I’m going to check the screen in the tank. The screen in the carb had nothing clogging it.

    I’m missing something. I read that the idle ports gets fuel from the intermediate chamber, but I can’t find anything clogged. I’m almost stumped. I might try rotating the pump diaphragm to separate that system.

    Please offer any suggestions.

    Sorry for the multiple posts.
     
  18. Fabber McGee
    Joined: Nov 22, 2013
    Posts: 805

    Fabber McGee
    Member

    Will it run with your hand over the carb inlet choking it? Usually something pretty simple that makes me feel like a dumb ass when I find it. Like water in the tank instead of gas or a really weak spark.
     
  19. ghalperin
    Joined: Dec 10, 2012
    Posts: 185

    ghalperin
    Member

    It'll temporarily fire up with a spray of Quick Start.

    The choke works fine, but I tried choking with my hand, nothing. I drained the sediment bowl, but it looked pretty clean.

    I'm gonna drain the tank, rebuild the shutoff valve, change the shutoff screen, install a glass sediment bowl, finish cleaning and reassembling the carb (again), get a dead chicken and swing it above my head several times and then maybe it'll fire up.
     
    Jet96 and barrnone50 like this.
  20. 5280A2
    Joined: Sep 8, 2014
    Posts: 115

    5280A2

    For Phred: I have put together similar oil filtering systems for a pressurized Model A and this past summer for a Model B engine. In both cases I filed a "V" in the top boss of the pump where it was filled in order to oil the cam bearing and distributor drive. I attempted to create a cross section of about 0.060" which is roughly equivalent to a sixteenth of an inch. Have quite a few miles on the A with no problems to date. The "V" would go on the side of the boss opposite the opening for oil discharge in the block. One thing I discovered with the Model B engine seemed to be a consequence of filling the entire slotted area of the boss as it appears you have done. I had issues with lower than expected oil pressure and less volume of oil flow than expected. What I discovered is that the filled slot effectively blocked off about half of the discharge port in the side of the block as shown in the photo below. The second photo shows the opening scribed on the filled boss, and the third photo shows how I opened up the discharge by filing away the portion of the boss that was obstructing the discharge port. Hope this helps you avoid any similar problems with your build.
    IMG_3287.JPG
    IMG_3290.JPG
    IMG_3295.JPG
     
    burl, Fabber McGee and Jet96 like this.
  21. rally1
    Joined: Oct 25, 2009
    Posts: 124

    rally1
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    To oil the cam and dizzy gear, you need to mill a small groove into the lower housing it is currently sealed. Only need something like 1/8” wide by 1/16” deep.
    The oil passage in the valve chamber needs to be plugged.
    This will force all oil out the side port in the block, through the filter, and then return to the front of the valve chamber.
    There are also modifications that can be done to the oil pump to increase oil flow.
    Contact me offline if you have any questions.
    Ken
     
  22. railcarmover
    Joined: Apr 30, 2017
    Posts: 259

    railcarmover

    Your current lubrication system operates on flow,on cold startup it can take up to 30 seconds to completely fill the valve gallery and provide adequate oil to your main bearings. Basic hydraulics says if you increase pressure you decrease flow. An oil filter is a nice upgrade,but isn't necessary,as they say,oil is cheap,change it.Starving a cam bore isn't,neither is accelerated main bearing wear from extended fill times..not trying to be a dick,just offering the flip side...leave it stock unless you intend to fully pressurize the system.
     
    Bigcheese327 likes this.
  23. Recently picked up this 1928 AR engine. What's the market on one of these thats been refreshed? Is it worth rebuilding and flipping to make some cash?
    View attachment 4536667
     
    Last edited: Jan 8, 2020
  24. studebakerjoe
    Joined: Jul 7, 2015
    Posts: 609

    studebakerjoe
    Member

    Retson, is that a flipped stock intake modified for a different carb on there?
     
  25. wheeltramp brian
    Joined: Jun 11, 2010
    Posts: 870

    wheeltramp brian
    Member

    I'd be interested in that header if your not
     
  26. Yessir. It's a stock manifold that someone brazed on a flange for a stromberg.
    Thinking about ditching it and running my stock stuff
     
  27. If you want, I can send pictures when it's light out!
     
  28. wheeltramp brian
    Joined: Jun 11, 2010
    Posts: 870

    wheeltramp brian
    Member

    Sounds good retson,thanks!
     
  29. Photos sent!
     
  30. mdimages
    Joined: Sep 13, 2019
    Posts: 62

    mdimages
    Member

    What header and carb do you have. Lookin at running a setup like this.
    Thanks Matt
     

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