The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Jiminy, Dec 31, 2017.
jim that is different . most suicides are the other way ....... strange little motor .
That is my lifelong fear, losing sight.
I am stashing away as much information I can on what I am doing to someday, if I have to write a book. Or dictate, as it would be. Remember the Golden Rule, The older I get the Faster I was.........
It seems like the extremes were tested back in the teens, I have been helping a Buddy with a 1913 Pierce Arrow roadster. Big 6 cyl, somewhere about 500 ci. And last week or so I was looking at a 800 ci Run About Pierce Arrow. I guess when the basic unit of measure is an inch, everything gets BIG
YOU DO KNOW I'VE DONE A LOT SOME FAST SOME SLOW..... I DROVE MY STUFF ALL OVER THE WORLD. ENJOYED EVERY SECOND OF IT.....
THAT'S ALL. NEVER CLAIMED TO BE FAST ...BUT I WAS AT LEAST THERE FOR THE DRIVE.
POINT IS I NOW HAVE A LIFETIMES COLLECTION FOR SALE NOW. IT'S A BIG JOB
john , pierce arrows are a LARGE car . had a friend that has a barn full . some really rare but all are BIG ......
Yep, they are, the Roadster is larger than my pickup.
T-5 Closed Driveline
I built my own adapter for a Jeep T-5 because no one made one at that time, the price that is listed in the earlier post is a very fair price. When Dan was making his for the S-10 it was a great price and Steve Serr had the whole package which included Bill Pugh's bellhousing, I don't know if the package is available anymore.
I used the AA bellhousing and built a 1" adapter between the housing and the T-5, Bill's product is a lot cleaner, I had to include clutch and brake pedal provisions. I was working with a body off frame situation and as it worked out I removed the center crossmember moved it back one set of holes, built spacers between it and the inside of the frame. I believe it took 1/8" at the front and 1/4' at the back. Drilled two holes on top of the frame and two holes thru the frame thru the rear members holes. No need to to cut the crossmember that way to clear the shifter.
Cut the driveline shorter by 9 and 9/16", painted the trans Model A Ford green, most people don't even know it is in there. Next step is to install the aftermarket short shift conversion, this will really fool them, as it is a thinner round handle, looks more like stock.
The whole conversion really is not that expensive when compared to other options, even if you buy everything for the conversion instead of making the parts.
I THINK THAT MANY OLDER CAR/TRUCKS REALLY BENEFIT FROM A FULL SYNCRO/OVERDRIVE GEARBOX. THEY MAKE THEM FAR MORE FUN ON THE ROAD. FOR MANY YEARS I HAVE USED NEWER GARBOXES IN PREWAR RACE CARS..... IT MAKES SENSE TO NOT RISK LOOSING A RARE GEARBOX.
IF YOU FIND A T-5 FROM AN ASTRO VAN THEY HAVE A SHIFT EXTENSION THT CAN BE MOVED AROUND TO PUT THEM IN A CLOSED TO STOCK POSITION. THESE ARE 49 STATE VERSIONS AND A BIT HARD TO FIND ON THE LEFT COAST. BUT IN NEW ENGLAND THE SEVERAL UTILITY COMPANIES RAN STICK SHIFT ASTROS.....
MOST OF THE TIME I REALLY PREFER VOLVO'S THEY ARE STRONG AND SHIFT LIKE A HOT KNIFE THRU BUTTER, BUT FOR YOU FORD GUYS CLOSED DRIVELNES AND THE LACK OF KITS MAKE THIS A LOT OF EXTRA WORK AND EXPENSE. TO ME IT'S WORTH THE TROUBLE BUT I DOUBT IT WOULDBE TO MANY HERE.
IN MY PREWAR BMW RACERS THE P1800 O/D BOX REALLY BROUGHT THE LITTLE CARS ALIVE... GEAR SPLITS ARE ABOUT 500 RPM REMOVING THE O/D LOCKOUTS AND USING IT IN 2-3-4TH O/D ... IT'S A BIG DEAL FOR MOST DRIVERS TO LIKE A GEAR THAT ALLOWS THEM TO GO THRU CORNERS WITH THE GAS PEDDLE FLOORED.
WISH I COULD FIND A NEWISH BOX TO FIT OUR FIAT TOPOLINOS. FOR NOW I HAVE TO SETTLE FOR HAVING CLOSE RATIO GEARS AND A MUCH TALLER DIFF RATIO. AGAIN MORE EXPENSE BUT AGAIN WELL WORTH THE EFFECT ON LAP TIMES.
Is the Nissan 5 speed available in Poland or Europe?
YES, WE EVEN HAVE SLICED BREAD SOME PLACES AND OREOS BUT NOT DOUBLE STUFF SO FAR.. HONEST SOMRTIMES I GET CULTURE SHOCK JUST THINK ABOUT IT.
LAST EASTER I EVEN FOUND PEEPS ..THEY ARE NOW AGING ON THE TOP OF THE FRIG...
WHICH NISSAN 5-SPEED DID YOU HAVE IN MIND?
I DO HAVE TO IMPORT J-B WELD AND DEVCON
hope these Volvo transmissions are strong this is one I adapted to go behind my ford banger.I haven't been able to drive it yet so I have know idea how well it will work.Some have said it wont be able to handle the torque of the engine
UNLESS YOUR THINKING YOU'LL GET OVER 200 HP AND BE SPEED SHIFTING AT 6500 RPM I THINK YOU'LL BE OK....
IF YOU GO BACK THRU MY POSTS YOU'LL SEE ME RUNNING THAT SAME BOX IN MY 1939 BMW 328 COUPE NEVER BROKE IT AND IT HAD A 160 MPH
GEAR IN THE BACK OF IT. THE VOLVO BOX IS ACTUALLY STRONGER THAT YOUR BASIC T-5
AS TO TORQUE I RAN ONE OF THOSE BOXES BEHIND A BUILT 1939 GMC I-6 ..... IT WAS FINE. I'M RUNNING A BUILT 32 GMC IN THAT TRUCK NOW AND THE VOLVO WOULDN'T TAKE IT. s FAR THE NLY THING THAT DOES IS A FORD TRUCK BOX.... RATIOS SUCK BUT IT'S HELL FOR STRONG
I BET YOU'LL NEED TO HEAT THE SHIFT LEVER AND BEND IT SOME.
Yep bent the shift lever but still need to figure how to match up the throw out bearing to the ford clutch fork
HAVE YOU THOUGHT ABOUT USING A HYDRAULIC T/O BEARING?
WHY ARE YOU USING FORD PRESSURE PLATE?
IF YOU CONTINUE TO USE A VERY TINY FONT I CAN'T READ ...YOU ARE MAKING IT HARD TO HELP YOU, SORRY
Using the Volvo pressure plate and throw out bearing already modified the ford flywheel to accept
What measurements did you drill the bolt pattern in?
Would help me alot, not having to measure it out first...
I think once you do get the new bolt circle drilled that you drill the cover and flywheel for positive locating dowl pins. These will do a better job of repeating the covers location than the bolts alone
This is really helpful if your replacing a disk in the car
PLEASE DON'T FORGET SOME KIND OF POSITIVE STOP SO YOUR NOT PUSHING THE DIAPHRAM WAY OVER-CENTER
THE DISK SHOULD ALWAYS BE SMALLER THAT THE SHOE ..EVEN THE SAME DIAMETER MAY CAUSE PROBLEMS
I think i throwed the diagram i made up away.To get the locations i had the flywheel set up on my rotary table.I figured how far from center the first hole was then indicated in the rest of holes as i changed the angle.I will see if i can find it next week.
I planned on setting the whole assembly up and adding a couple of buried shoulder bolts to take care of this.Thanks for your help on how to set up the throw out bearing.I may need to direct message you when i get closer to doing this.
MUCH OF MY BACKROUND IS HAVING TO PULL SERVICE ON CARS IN FAR LESS THAN COMFORTABLE CONDITIONS. IF YOU NEVER HAVE TO SERVICE THE CLUTCH AGAIN SHOULDER BOLTS ARE FINE.. BUT COVER'S MATERIAL ISN'T HARDENED AND SHOULDERED BOLTS WILL DISTORT THE HOLES EVENTUALLY. THE WHOLE SITUATION RE. COVER WHEN YOU ADD THE INTERFERANCE OF THE CLUTCH DISC. THIS SHOULD BE HALF THE THICKNESS OF THE LINING. SO YOU ARE ALWAYS WORKING AGAINST THIS TENSION WHEN INSTALLING THE COVER. LONG ENOUGH PINS OVERCOME THIS PROBLEM.
AFTER ALL IF THE COVER'S LOCATION CAN'T BE REPEATED IN SERVICE BALANCE IS AFFECTED. IN ADDITION TO WEAR ON THE FINGERS AND T/O BEARING.
PUT THIS ALL IN YOUR MILL WITHOUT THE BOLTS EVEN NEAR TIGHT AND PUSH DOWN ON THE DIAPHRAM'S CENTER.... MY GUESS IS YOU'LL NOT NEED A DIAL INDICATOR TO SEE THE STRESSES INVOLVED AS YOU TIGHTEN THE COVER ONCE THE DISC IS IN PLACE. AND THINK ABOUT EVERYTIME YOU PUSH THE T/O IT WILL NOT CONTACT IN THE SAME SETTING ONCE ASSEMBLED UP AND RUNNING. NONE OF THIS IS STATIC
WHAT HAVE YOU DONE TO ADDRESS THE STEPED INPUT SHAFT DIA. RECARDING THE PILOT BUSH?
SORRY THIS IS A LOT OF TYPING FOR ME BUT YOU HAVE A CHANCE TO IMPROVE FUTURE WEAR AND SERVICE PROBLEMS.
Hey !!!! what's weird about my Vincent? ....We gotta be, so you guys can describe and define your normality
IT'S NOT ABOUT VINCENT MOTORCYCLES BUT MORE ABOUT THE CLUB GUYS AND THEIR SHINY BLACK SATIN JACKETS....
I LEARNED TO NEVER SHOW-UP AT THE ALL BRITHISH RIDE WITH A PICK-UP... YOU END UP HAUL'N ALL THE BROKEN VINCENTS BACK TO THE START ...I AM SURE THE LAWYERS THAT OWN THEM WOULD SUE YOU FOR HELPING THEM
WINHOFFS ARE THE WEIRDEST BIKES WITH THE STRANGEST OWNERS....
question please : 1931 ford coupe with vega cross steer . tie rod hits the front cross member . it steers ok but I don't see a way to stop it from hitting . spindles dictate the location ......... thanks .. steve
IS THAT WHAT YOU MEANT BY "BUMP" STEER?
no , just another lil problem . got bump steer fixed , what a ride !
Hey! I finally made it back to the H.A.M.B. and the thread! My computer got "hacked". I "scrubbed" it.. The cure was worse than the disease; and I lost just about everything. Jalopy Journal techies finally reset my password and I'm in! Not that you guys missed me!
good to see you back . computers are amazing but very frustating
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