Technical *** January 2016 Banger Meet - New Year and Old Bangers ***

Does anybody run one of these on a stock oiling A motor? If so how do you set it up?

 

better filters out there

 

I found that one in my parts stash and was wondering. I have seen the modern setups for the A but am concerned about using one of those with my Red's Tube header. I am not sure the kit I saw on Brattons will fit under my exhaust.

 

You can run an A-Fordable filter under headers with a 90 degree adapter. I actually sold mine as it's easier to change the oil more often!

 

That is kind of what I was thinking. I figured if people were running that vintage filter and I could easily set it up I would. If not no big deal. I change the oil often and had the pan off the motor and cleaned the pan out and the valve lifter chamber. Thanks for the info everyone. Not running that filter I found means I don't have to search for filter elements to go in it. HA!

 

here is just another approach to longevity.......

 

Pep Boys has the filter element

 

Take the pipe plug out of side of engine at oil pump just above pan rail. Tap out to 1/4 pipe, run line from there to inlet side of filter, then run a line from outlet side of filter, and tap into valve cover and route oil into front of valve chamber. You must use a little imagination and ingenuity. I mounted one to the pan rail with an adapter another I attached to the frame.It will work as well as some a the new ones.

I'm not going to give my opinion as to wether you need it, just tryin to answer your question. One bit of advice, don't start the engine till you have everything connected!!

 

my Cabriolet moved around today under it's own power.....just saying....bang bang bang.....

 

this is just not right . must be a "mines bigger than yours" . is that for the lakes car ? .......... steve (& yes his is bigger)

 

Steve,
not Lakes/Bonneville motor, Hill Climb short run. It is a Serr Miller 2 port head and 5 main with Brierley cam.
There is no room for oil pump in bottom end where it normally is and owner didn't want a belt drive.
Pump is driven from cam with wet sump/pan.

Here is a mine is bigger than yours pic.............the "greenish" color in the in take stacks are tennis balls. The second pass on this went better than 150 mph.

 

yes I remember this one . how do you stand all the eye candy ! nice stuff

 

kleenex

 

How modified does a motor need to get before the diameter of the exhaust needs to go up to increase efficiency?

 

The way I look at it you can have a SBC with 400 CI running much higher RPMs then most bangers will even dream of running on 15/8 tubes. I can feel a seat of the paints improvement from lake header to a 4 into 1. The 4 into 1 has much better low end and seams to even pull better mid. And top end.
I want to try a tri Y set up some day if I ever get time to work on my own car.

 

sorry but the SBC is not the issue , the 4-1 reds makes is good for the banger . I have had one for years & pleased with it .

 

I don't think that is what he is asking...
He asked tube size... I am thinking he is talking about 13/4 or 2" tube.

And at 200 CI for a banger running under 4000 RPMs I don't feel there is any need to go bigger then 15/8 tube. My header is 15/8 the a nice collector and I am very happy with that...

 

There is no specific question on primary tube selection I can see.
The question could be posed to inquire about the tailpipe and muffler size.
Many books have been written over the years to answer this question and more.

J

 

I am specifically asking about the exhaust after the header or exhaust manifold. Big headers end up constricted down to the size of the outlet pipe right?

 

I like the sound of 2" after my header no muffler.... The bends going back quiet it down enough for me.
More power or not I don't know....
2.5" sounded too blubbery around town in traffic.

 

He asked tube size... I am thinking he is talking about 13/4 or 2" tube.

you would have a better idea on this . I know you have built many ..............

 

you can just build your own...i built a double, one for throttle one for choke works very well.

 

What you are inquiring about is restriction of the tailpipe and muffler.
A simple test is to check the amount of back pressure on the system.
This can be done by using a port in the exhaust system near the engine and reading the amount pressure.
This procedure is one used to verify the catalytic converter is not clogged and causing too much restriction.
Make sure to check the pressure during a peak loading, driving up a hill.
Enjoy, J

 

Sexy, just sexy

 

Guys.... some of us are no where near you at metal skills and equipment. Shit I don't even have a drill press yet. That said, with out one to copy, where can I get the measurements of the distance from holes to the center. My recollection of geometry is that the further from the anchor point the connection to the throttle pedal is, the shorter the movement at the carb is right?

 

On the exhaust, let me rephrase the question. I have a new stock exhaust on the car now. After I hop up the motor, am I going to need to replace the exhaust? I was thinking of just making a tube to replace the muffler. The benefit is it runs through the stock deuce routing. If I replace it, I don't want to come out the side on the tudor because I don't want exhaust fumes coming back in an open back window.

BTW before people think I am all over the place (well OK I am). I have two stages I am planning. The model B tudor with a simmons head and updraft carb (no headers). And the hot B motor with the winfield head and cam, 1.7 intake valves, Burns intake, 81's and header(s). The second will either replace the Tudor motor next year or go into an A Pick-up (or other TROG type build).

 

My bellcranks are boomerang shaped because I originally had the front carb in the back so I need short linkages. But I relocated the rear carb to the front of the manifold, so I just made longer linkages. Make sure the upper side of the bell crank keeps the throttle linkage fairly level. If you make it too short the lever will pull the linkage on a downward angle, which makes it hard to break the the butterfly linkage over center......Level Good, upward or downward linkage angle Bad. If you like I can measure the upper and lower lengths of the bellcranks. For me this was all trial and error but they work good and I get full throttle just as the pedal reaches the floor.

 

February 2016 Banger Meet http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/february-2016-banger-meet-extra-day-this-year.1007270/

 

Are there any good build threads for a A engine bottom end? Have recently picked up a spare engine that i would like to hop up as crazy as one can get with stock block and crank. Keeping parts inside block optional. Lol

 

Hi, Guys I don't get in here much only when I need some good advice. I've been struggling with keeping constant 2-3 PSI feeding Tri 48 Strombergs.

I'm running the 12v square electric fuel pump just under my Moon tank that is in the front of my 28 Ford PU bed with a AC inline can filter 8-10" before the pump.

My first question is I see these square FACET TYPE 12V pumps all over the place from Ebay to Napa to the local parts store with prices from $5.00 - $40.00. They all claim to do just about the same thing as the Facet brand. Does any one know if there all the same or should I spend the top dollar Facet?