Jag IFS series 1 68-73

Anyone know if these are the same IFS as say a series II or III? I found a 72 on CraigsList and want to put a Jag IFS in a F-1 and I know the II and III series is ideal, but the one I found is in my budget and is only a few miles away. Thanks.

 

alot of guys smarter than me have dissected the differences in various threads such as..
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=451036&highlight=jag+f1

the caveat is, the ball joints and tie rods are bound to be worn, so replacements are more available for newer models. I found them in stock at advance auto. oreilly did not have them at all. after i sold the rear and scrapped the rest, my 83 cost me nothing but time.

 

Basically the difference is that the SI has solid discs and 3 pot calipers whereas the later versions SII & SIII have vented discs and 4 pot calipers.

As I understand it the SII & SIII discs are more durable as they are less prone to warpage. Having said that I have an SI as a daily driver and owned it over 20 years. The discs were warped when I bought it. Replaced them with some good second hand ones years ago and they are still performing well.

Well engineered front end. The upper ball joints are a bolt in deal and are fitted with shims. You should always note the position of the shims on dismantling the upper A arm so you know where to put them on re-assembly. Similarly, the steering arms are bolt on and have shims associated with them. Again, ensure that you watch out for these when dismantling as they need to go back exactly where they came from otherwise it will throw the toe in out.

The lower balljoints on these front ends were originally a shimed affair. That is, the joint was a greasable item that you could pull apart and take out shims to compensate for wear. Don't worry about those but simply replace them with the later sealed units which they fitted to the XJ40.

Parts still readily available for these front ends. If you can install it using the factory rubber mounts do so as that factor contributes a lot to the driver comfort through reduced road shocks entering the frame /bodywork. That means you need the factory column as well as it is designed to compensate for movement of the crossmember as the mounts compress.

 

Thanks guys. Any info on rears as I might get the whole car?

 

Can I update to the newer brakes?

 

Yes, but you need the stub axles that go with them as well.