Technical I've stripped two 1940 front brake hoses. Help!

I'm at my wits end right now. Running out of parts!
I'm attempting to assemble a 1940 brake system in a '32. Normal run of the mill stuff. Done it dozens of times before. Getting the front T-junction to not leak can require tightening up a bit but it should eventually seat and stay dry.
However I've stripped two hoses now doing that!
I noticed the thru bolt doesn't go into to hose threaded part very far so I've countersunk the hole in the end of it. It should go in there nicely.
However with two copper washers, one on either side of the brass T junction, there isn't much thread left and that might be why it's stripping the thread.
All parts are new repops from Macs. I've never had this problem before. Has anyone experienced the same lately?
The picture below shows the parts in question. In the picture only one copper ring is fitted but I believe you need one on either side of the T-junction.
I'm using silicon brake fluid but that shouldn't make a difference.

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Are you certain that is the correct brake hose? It looks like it is for a flared fitting, not a banjo bolt.

If it IS for a banjo bolt, then you just need a longer bolt.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/shop/b/...rake-banjo-bolts---washers-17569/8da5de08ee02

 

Definitely the wrong part for the application. It probably takes a 3/8-24 fitting, which is usually a brake line.

 

Yea, way wrong usage.
Rubber hose is usually from a flare junction to the wheel cylinder. A Tee would be from hard line to hard line flare fitting.

 

Like others have said, that is the wrong hose end, that one is not designed to seal at the end like that. That hose end seals on the inner area where the flare of a line would go.

 

The hose is 99A-2079-A which is Supposed to mate with 91A-2150 thru bolt. That's the way Ford set it up. The T-junction seals with the copper washer. The parts I'm using are correct for the application. In 1939-48 Ford's front T-junction went straight to the hose. My concern is whether the parts are inferior quality. They used to work but this latest batch doesn't.

 

I definitely dont trust MACS. They probably labelled it wrong. Stay away from Obsolete in Oklahoma City too

 

I understand what you're doing and a bit of improv may be required. I would get a longer banjo bolt and put a 45* taper on the end of it so you gain some thread when you go into the IF female. Or face off the flare inside the fitting, but I would try the taper first. You may need to trim the bolt length so it just keeps from bottoming when tightened down.

 

Edward,Is your "T" or banjo bolt like this?

 

What Ford did, was run the rubber hose from the frame to the rear end, and ran a short piece of steel line to the junction on the wishbone. That junction had a bracket that was curved and contoured for the wishbone. That junction and bolt you have, is for the master cylinder.

 

I think that brass fitting is the one that is supposed to bolt to the master cylinder with a bajo bolt.
A hose does not mate to it. There are fittings that will fit your hose and then can be atached to a tee flare fitting.

 

I see a lot of wrong things from just about any manufacturer under the sun. They must copy mistakes off each other. Like Ford trim clips for a piece on my car, all the catalogs call for ONE clip and the reality is there are THREE different ones that are required.

 

What does the other end of that hose look like?

This would take some very precise measuring, because your suggestion would require that both the taper on the banjo bolt AND the crush of the copper washers both happen at the same time, as you would have to have three areas seal simultaneously (the flare at the banjo bolt/hose interface and both sides of the brass fitting).

 

Here is the master cyl fitting.Edward has the correct fitting for his application
http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb...~S5970T7FMM86193122670a~Z5Z5Z5~Z5Z5Z50000019A

Here is a tech pic of the system.The hose does connect to the fitting that Edward has with the banjo bolt I pictured in an earlier post..

 

Not at all. What the taper would be for is CLEARRING the flare in the fitting, not trying to seal to it as well as the crush washers.

 

No it's not. It's flat at the end. I have tried to modify it to look like that so it doesn't bottom out on the hose.

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Which obviously isn't possible. The banjo bolt doesn't have to bottom out in the hose. The two copper rings. 91A-2149 do the sealing job.
Or are supposed to seal. But it drips fluid out. If I tighten it I strip the thread in the hose.
I wonder if the metal on the hose is too soft.
I tried to order a pair of hoses from Drake but as always they're out of stock.

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Exactly. The same hose is used left and right so has to look like that inside for the other side.

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We're working at the front of the car Chris.

 

You are trying to use the 2076 fitting that uses a through bolt when you need the 2075 fitting that is a flare fitting and no bolt.

 

First of all, That hose end it not made to seal on a copper washer. There should be concentric rings raised where a washer is supposed to go.
Second , there is no copper washer there between the hose and block, without a washer it will never seal.

You got a catch 22 or wrong parts with the correct description

 

I guess I have never seen the correct parts. I have always use an inverted flare T and run a piece of tubing from the hose to the T. Thanks for the picture. I stand corrected.

 

I have 2 cars with driver side banjo T’s .I do not have part nos,but they were standard Ford fittings and rubber brake lines. 2copper washers.

John

 

One thing you could try is to anneal the washers to soften them; the new Chinese copper washers seen to be too hard and don't seal good with normal torque.

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I just looked at my truck to see how it was done. It looks like what you have except the end of the rubber hose has a larger sealing area. I took a couple of pictures for you.
I hope this helps.


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It looks like the end of your hose has a chamfer instead of a flat surface...maybe.


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That is good advice. I think that might be the problem.

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If you're tempting to post an answer here but don't understand how a 1940 Ford brake system is laid out, then please refrain. You're not helping.

The reproduction parts being used are all correct being assembled in the correct order.

They're failing. 2149 is leaking. 2179 strips out if you tighten 2150. I'm trying to establish which part, 2149, 2150 or 2179, is not functioning correctly.

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I annealed the washers. I also used Wagner brake hoses. I would guess the Macs parts are not up to specs.

John

 

How about assembling the 2 washers and the "T" fitting on the banjo bolt, and see how much of the bolt is left to thread into the brake hose? If only a few threads your bolt is too short. It should go into the hose to almost full thread without bottoming out in the hose.