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Technical Issues to look for in a 57 Fairlane?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by The_Cat_Of_Ages, Apr 7, 2021.

  1. 1930artdeco
    Joined: Oct 25, 2011
    Posts: 260

    1930artdeco
    Member

    Can be…how much time and and effort do you want to spend? Depending on the rust it may be easier to buy another one. If you want to keep it, then it will have to be dipped to get all of the hidden rust out. Then primed and painted. That is assuming no metal replacement is needed.
     
  2. it needs the whole underside of the hood cut and welded
     
  3. 20210905_195954.jpg its really bad to be fully honest.
     
  4. 1930artdeco
    Joined: Oct 25, 2011
    Posts: 260

    1930artdeco
    Member

    to me at least... unless you are really good at metal working get a new one and set that one aside for practice later on down the road. At least you will be on the road faster rather than waiting to work on the hood.

    Mike
     
    Wanderlust likes this.
  5. A Boner
    Joined: Dec 25, 2004
    Posts: 6,274

    A Boner
    Member

    Three things:
    1. Rust
    2. Collision damage
    3. Rust
     
  6. 1930artdeco
    Joined: Oct 25, 2011
    Posts: 260

    1930artdeco
    Member

    I read somewhere where someone was able to take the rib supports off the hood/deck lid they were working on. But then you would have to reattach them and those ribs are pretty far gone.
     
  7. abe lugo
    Joined: Nov 8, 2002
    Posts: 2,534

    abe lugo
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    There are still enough parts out there that it would be much cheaper to just buy a replacement hood. I actually gave one away recently. But check the real harder parts like the rockers and chassis parts that may rust out.
     
  8. My '59 was not as bad as that, but I gave the front of the hood a citric acid dip for a few days. Then cut out the jagged stuff with an abrasive wheel. I was able to build up the structure with fiberglass cloth. All I had was holes, nothing rotten to the edges.
     
  9. this is the only really bad spot on the body, the rest is acceptable rust for a northerner, minute amounts of rust here and there.
     
    bobss396 likes this.
  10. The hood is a common spot to rust. My '59 only had a small spot under the gas pedal that a PO fixed. It was hard to detect.
     
  11. so apparently the push rods i ordered are not coming, as i now have the money back, that's great... anyone have any used ones i could buy?
     
  12. 1930artdeco
    Joined: Oct 25, 2011
    Posts: 260

    1930artdeco
    Member

    Don’t know where you ordered from but there is always Mummerts, and I assume Tim McMaster and Ted Eaton sell them. Egge should also have them.

    mike
     
  13. I don't think they should be that hard to find, but my 292 knowledge is sparse.
     
  14. 20211103_152856.jpg 20211103_152939.jpg 20211103_153034.jpg 20211103_152822.jpg


    this is how the car is currently, still waiting on pushrods, i might just try to straighten the ones i have with some kind of roller thing at this point.
     
  15. To bad your so far away, I have a really solid hood that would cure your problem. As for pushrods call E.R.S. (engine rebuilders supply) in Troutdale Oregon. 503-661-5614 they are the go to used motor parts for Machine shops. If that don't work I have a back up guy.
     
    Jeff Norwell likes this.
  16. finn
    Joined: Jan 25, 2006
    Posts: 932

    finn
    Member

    We had a 57 Del Rio two door Wagon when I was growing up. 272/3 speed. As a kid of six or seven when we got it in 1958, I knew it was a special sort of car, but by 1961 it was pretty well rusted and time to trade it in for a brand new Ford sedan.

    I distinctly remember poking holes in the eyebrows with my ten year old fingers, and tapping the ever growing rust perforated rocker panels with my shoe toes.

    I always liked those cars, but most were pretty well rusted by the time they were four years old. The last one I remember still on the road was in 1967, and it was on its last legs, with every body panel below the belt line rusted.

    Good luck and I hope you save this one.
     
  17. thank you so much, i'll call them later tonight! and i might even pay freight shipping to buy that hood off of you if need be.
     
  18. this car was lucky, it was driven down south only, it never saw salt, and was driven daily up until the early 80s, then it sat around mostly, and very few miles were put on per year. then in the mid 90s it started sitting in a barn, then in 2010 they moved it up here, tried to start it, but it wouldnt run, so they parked it and used some parts off of it.
     
  19. update, i now have proper ignition key, but the trunk lock cylinder is busted, so i removed the pins and use it as a switch on the trunk, one day im gonna install a proper lock cylinder+key but thats not gonna be for a little while.
     
  20. 1930artdeco
    Joined: Oct 25, 2011
    Posts: 260

    1930artdeco
    Member

    One step at a time….
    Mike
     
  21. Those are inexpensive and any Ford parts house has them. I got a new one for my '59 and will install it with the NOS latch/emblem assembly.
     
    Jeff Norwell likes this.
  22. original owner sent me a picture of the car back in the 80s/early 90s. received_1804464143077915.jpeg
     
    guthriesmith and bobss396 like this.
  23. 1930artdeco
    Joined: Oct 25, 2011
    Posts: 260

    1930artdeco
    Member

    Looks like a budding rock band.
     
    Crazy Steve likes this.
  24. 20211203_095933.jpg 20211203_112923.jpg so looking at the brake lines, these are gonna be a PITA to fix. They seem to be pinched into the frame. Any tips?
     

    Attached Files:

    Cooon likes this.
  25. 1930artdeco
    Joined: Oct 25, 2011
    Posts: 260

    1930artdeco
    Member

    The long line is held in by clips and just pop out with a flat head screw driver. The diff line is held in by clips that are bent over and you can just unbend them. This is assuming nothing has been altered. Now the front hard line is just like the diff but runs under the engine. I am hoping to finish the long line next week.

    mike
     
    Jeff Norwell likes this.
  26. Jeff Norwell
    Joined: Aug 20, 2003
    Posts: 13,520

    Jeff Norwell
    MODERATOR
    Staff Member

    IMG_2330.JPG I used the ni-copp type lines(sp?)... easy to bend and flare.
    I suggest getting a good flair tool.... do a few small practice runs on small pieces to get the hang of flaring your lines.You will need to get your car up in the air about a 1-2 feet securely on stands or chalked up with 6x6 wood.Please do not use cinder blocks. Extremely dangerous.
    I got my car in the air and secured by building these wood crates.
    As Mike suggested(1930artdeco) remove the rear diff lines by gently bending the clips back... the front cross member lines are held by 3 bolts with clips....
    The long hard body line starts from the front of the car on the drivers side outside of the frame and crosses over under the B-pillar area and then on the inside of the frame to connect to the diff lines.
    I ran mine completely on the inside of the frame for this hard long line.Just easier..... get your self some brake line clips and the proper brake line fittings.
    On my projects.I kept all the old lines as templates to match what the factory did.I may add.... this is the perfect time to do the worst job...scrub and de-scale the underside of that car as much as possible and check for severe rust damage.
     
  27. Sometimes you can find stock brake lines and not have to do any flaring. They come in 10" increments up to 60". Or cut one in 2 pieces, cuts the flaring by half. I did this with my front disc conversion.

    Some older Fords, the rear brake lines went in before the body went on, essentially making it impossible to access.
     
  28. F-ONE
    Joined: Mar 27, 2008
    Posts: 3,073

    F-ONE
    Member
    from Alabama

  29. i have tall stands i picked up 2-3 feet iirc, should make the job decently easy. and i will be doing the same, bending new lines to match the old, i will be borrowing my dads flairing/bending equipment for this. i checked for frame rust before i bought it, i smacked the sucker with a hammer and it didnt even dent.
     
    Jeff Norwell likes this.

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