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Technical Is there suppose to be anything in here?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by XtechX, May 31, 2019.

  1. XtechX
    Joined: Jul 22, 2014
    Posts: 72

    XtechX
    Member
    from Edmore, MI

    [​IMG][​IMG]

    There seems to be a slight gap between the wishbone yolk and the axle even though the perch is tightened up all the way.
    Is there suppose to be shims in there?


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  2. Papas32
    Joined: Feb 18, 2009
    Posts: 73

    Papas32
    Member
    from No.Ia.

    looks like you've got a 32-36 axle with a 37-41 wishbone
     
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  3. Yes if axle perch is 2" and bones are 2 1/4"...shims or spacer I believe is what will be required.
     
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  4. Bill Rinaldi
    Joined: Mar 23, 2006
    Posts: 1,712

    Bill Rinaldi
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I believe there is supposed to an axel bearing on one side and a spacer on the other for that axel/radius rod arrangement. Bill
     
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  5. Doublepumper
    Joined: Jun 26, 2016
    Posts: 514

    Doublepumper
    Member

  6. verde742
    Joined: Aug 11, 2010
    Posts: 5,286

    verde742
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  7. Fordors
    Joined: Sep 22, 2016
    Posts: 2,353

    Fordors
    Member

    I’m not seeing the 1/4” gap some of you guys are, it looks more like the gaps can be measured with feeler gauges. I wonder if the small gap might be the result of someone using an 80 grit disc when cleaning up a corroded axle.
    I would shim it but the problem may be finding thin shims that will be tough enough.
     
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  8. X-cpe
    Joined: Mar 9, 2018
    Posts: 780

    X-cpe

    From what I see in the pictures that doesn't look like anywhere close to a 1/4" gap. I would just snug the perch and load the assembly one way or the other to put the gap all on the top or the bottom and then start shoving feeler gauges in the gap to see what I needed.

    Fordors types faster than me, which ain't saying much.
     
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  9. X-cpe
    Joined: Mar 9, 2018
    Posts: 780

    X-cpe

    Maybe valve spring shims?
     
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  10. lostone
    Joined: Oct 13, 2013
    Posts: 941

    lostone
    Member
    from kansas

    Just tap a standard old sae bolt washer in there, bet it would fit fine. And it's a non wear spot so the cheap .06 cent washer would last forever.....
     
  11. el Scotto
    Joined: Mar 3, 2004
    Posts: 4,183

    el Scotto
    Member
    from Tracy, CA

    Are those parts made of Chinesium? Because the fit is awful...
     
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  12. XtechX
    Joined: Jul 22, 2014
    Posts: 72

    XtechX
    Member
    from Edmore, MI

    It’s a pretty small gap, maybe half the thickness of a dime.


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  13. XtechX
    Joined: Jul 22, 2014
    Posts: 72

    XtechX
    Member
    from Edmore, MI

    Also they are both new speedway parts axle, perches and wishbones.


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  14. BamaMav
    Joined: Jun 19, 2011
    Posts: 3,708

    BamaMav
    Member
    from Berry, AL

    Take the wishbone back off, whack the yoke with a sledgehammer to close it up a bit, put it back on.

    Don't know if that would actually work or not, but would be the old time broke shadetree remedy!
     
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  15. There should be Zero Gap and a very snug fit when being put together. How you get there is up to you but I,m not one to advise a Hammer fit. Off shore parts are only close so some home spun corrections are quit normal.
     
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  16. el Scotto
    Joined: Mar 3, 2004
    Posts: 4,183

    el Scotto
    Member
    from Tracy, CA

    I would take it all apart and ensure the physical dimensions are all correct. Something isn’t right if you’ve got a gap like that.

    If you’re gonna put a band aid on that setup I’d take a bit of material off something so you can use a spacer like when you use an early axle with the later wishbone.
     
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  17. thirtytwo
    Joined: Dec 19, 2003
    Posts: 2,590

    thirtytwo
    Member

    If it’s a close fit I’ll heat the yolk up with a rosebud and crank it down, use anti seize on the perch threads and nut though , if it’s a sizeable gap I’ve cut yolk and welded before
     
  18. XtechX; You should know that when Henry made his stuff both the top and bottom surface of the Axle boss was machined flat as was the inside mating surfaces of the yokes on the bones. These surfaces were exact matching surfaces to each other and a Zero gap fit. The perch bolt as well as nut was a tapper fit into a tapper seat on the bones. This was to make a joint with Zero movement. If you don't have pretty dang close to that when done you will soon have issues once you start driving the Car. Most importantly those surfaces need to be square to each other to achieve good clamp force when you tighten everything up.
     
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  19. Fordors
    Joined: Sep 22, 2016
    Posts: 2,353

    Fordors
    Member

    No cutting or welding on those, I think they are cast ductile iron.
     

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