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Customs Is there a quick fix to stop the oil leak in the 9" rear end of my '60 Edsel?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Lebowski, Aug 9, 2016.

  1. Lebowski
    Joined: Aug 21, 2011
    Posts: 1,570

    Lebowski
    BANNED

    We replaced the pig in the car last month so it would be more highway friendly but didn't have any brass washers for the 10 nuts and it was leaking pretty good so I bought some brass washers at the hardware store yesterday and put them on and it still leaks. I read about other ways to stop the leak like using caulk around the nuts or putting some kind of sealer inside it with the oil. One guy even recommended putting sawdust in it. Is there an easy way to stop it from leaking without taking it apart again? Thanks....
     
  2. Atwater Mike
    Joined: May 31, 2002
    Posts: 9,937

    Atwater Mike
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    Hi, Lebowski. Glad you got that pumpkin back in there...
    COPPER washers are what you want. Not brass. Copper washers come 'soft', (you don't have to 'aneal' them with heat)
    Brass washers are harder than a whore's heart!
    Copper washers for 9" rear used to be available at the Ford dealer, part# forgotten, sorry...
    NAPA store may have them, they were a Ford part. (also tractor part) Ask for 3/8" diameter, they also came in 5/16" IIRC.
     
  3. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 45,219

    squirrel
    Member

    commonly used for brake fittings, I used to buy them by the box in the Dorman brand.

    Lots of places for a rearend to leak, so make sure you found all of them!
     
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  4. Lebowski
    Joined: Aug 21, 2011
    Posts: 1,570

    Lebowski
    BANNED

    I think I saw some copper washers there too so I'll go back and get some of them. Also, the nuts have a flat side and a rounded side. Is the rounded side supposed to be out? I thought if the rounded side was in they might bend the washers a little to form a better seal. The rounded side is out now. Thanks....
     
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  5. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 45,219

    squirrel
    Member

    the rounded side is the crimp for the locking action, it goes out. And the nuts are only supposed to be used once, they're what's called a "stover nut" or a "prevailing torque nut". but no one replaces them....nylock nuts are also a suitable replacement.

    I just use regular nuts and no washers, in the 9" rears on my old Chevys, because I'm always swapping out gears, and the proper hardware just gets in the way.
     
  6. Lebowski
    Joined: Aug 21, 2011
    Posts: 1,570

    Lebowski
    BANNED

    I bought 10 copper washers (at $1.40 each) and put them on so we'll see what happens. The guy at Ace said that copper is harder than brass so I'm receiving some conflicting information. Hopefully they will stop the leak....
     
  7. Mo rust
    Joined: Mar 11, 2012
    Posts: 526

    Mo rust
    Member

    There are several listings on Ebay of assorments of 110 washers for $9 or so with no shipping. 20 of them are the right size for the 9" diff. (3/8)
     
  8. You did use a new gasket between the housing and 3rd member right?
     
  9. Joliet Jake
    Joined: Dec 6, 2007
    Posts: 489

    Joliet Jake
    Member
    from Jax, FL

    Copper as the others have said is the correct way, I also use new correct locking nuts.
    P.S.
    I work in the steam turbine industry, brass is not softer than copper.
     
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  10. Lebowski
    Joined: Aug 21, 2011
    Posts: 1,570

    Lebowski
    BANNED

    Yes....
     
  11. I haven't heard the old saw dust remedy since the early sixty's,that was a unethical quick fix that some used car salesman used to hid the noise and wear on the rear axles,I suppose it helped with leaks,I sure wouldn't do it with my cars. HRP
     
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  12. Lebowski
    Joined: Aug 21, 2011
    Posts: 1,570

    Lebowski
    BANNED

    It still leaks. Has anyone heard of Blue Devil Rear Main Sealer? I dumped some into the crankcase this morning because I have a leak there too. A lot of the reviews I read said it worked and actually stopped or significantly slowed down the leak there. Plus it's "guaranteed" so I'm supposed to be able to get my $14.99 back if it doesn't work. Can I dump a (8 ounce) bottle of that into the rear end or is there another product that might work?
     
  13. 55Brodie
    Joined: Dec 15, 2008
    Posts: 746

    55Brodie
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  14. mgtstumpy
    Joined: Jul 20, 2006
    Posts: 7,891

    mgtstumpy
    Member

    Stating the obvious but I would pull the centre out and check the both centre and housing surfaces for residue that doesn't allow a satisfactory seal and whilst at it, check the pinion seal as well. It will take longer but could save you all the agro of this that and the other.
     
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  15. Lebowski
    Joined: Aug 21, 2011
    Posts: 1,570

    Lebowski
    BANNED

    I don't know. Where is it so I can check? What about putting the Blue Devil sealer in it that I asked about earlier?
     
  16. Ebbsspeed
    Joined: Nov 11, 2005
    Posts: 4,937

    Ebbsspeed
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    I don't think I'd use the Blue Devil snake oil in the rear end.
    Interesting that there would be a metallurgist working at Ace Hardware.
     
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  17. seb fontana
    Joined: Sep 1, 2005
    Posts: 6,319

    seb fontana
    Member
    from ct

    Blue devil sealer is I think supposed to swell lip type seals, not meant for gaskets, holes, ect...It would not faze me to remove nut and washer, wipe area/stud clean and apply RTV then washer and nut...
     
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  18. blowby
    Joined: Dec 27, 2012
    Posts: 6,393

    blowby
    Member
    from Nicasio Ca

    Didn't they also use bananas?
     
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  19. seb fontana
    Joined: Sep 1, 2005
    Posts: 6,319

    seb fontana
    Member
    from ct

    Only chicitas..
     
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  20. henryj1951
    Joined: Sep 23, 2012
    Posts: 2,310

    henryj1951
    Member
    from USA

    and the OLD foam/sponge under the rocker valve covers to
    quiet down the klacking lifters....
    bad juju not EVEn a fix, just a way to get rid of your junk
    and i watched it being done back in 1961...:cool:
     
  21. oldolds
    Joined: Oct 18, 2010
    Posts: 2,932

    oldolds
    Member

    I would use non hardening permatex. Same results!
     
  22. Lebo: I used 140 wt g.o. in my 8" until I could get a seal installed, it really slowed it down.
     
  23. Lebowski
    Joined: Aug 21, 2011
    Posts: 1,570

    Lebowski
    BANNED

    I'll try that as soon as the rest of the 80/90w leaks out and I like the RTV idea so I'll try that too. Thanks....
     
  24. Sure, it will help with the leaks. ;) If you put in enough sawdust it will absorb all the gear lube! :eek: Then all you have to worry about is the sawdust leaks. :oops:
     
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  25. rustrodder
    Joined: Nov 15, 2005
    Posts: 276

    rustrodder
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    I just rebuilt a 9 inch for my F-1. The shop that went thru the pumpkin advised me I did not have to use the copper washers. Just use RTV (gear oil resistant) on the gasket, then put a little circle of RTV around each of the bolts on the pumpkin before installing the nuts. Be sure to wait overnite before filling with fluid. It worked just fine
     
  26. aaggie
    Joined: Nov 21, 2009
    Posts: 2,529

    aaggie
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    All good suggestions and some have merit but I have had a few over the years that defied reason. I ended up pulling the center section and replaced all of the studs with new ones. When the housing was bare I surfaced the gasket area with a sanding block and used spray brake clean to clean any residual grease from the stud holes then coated the sealing surface of the new studs with RTV before installing them. Next I made sure the gasket surface of the center section case was flat and clean before installing it. I only use RTV on the side of the gasket that goes against the housing then placed the center section on the studs and snugged it up with new copper washers and elastic lock nuts.
    I let the RTV cure for 24 hours before filling it with gear oil and took the vent out and sprayed brake cleaner through it until it flushed clear. It never leaked after that so I'm not sure what actually cured it. One thing to look for is a gouge in the case where some previous person drove a screwdriver into the gap to break it loose.
     
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  27. B.A.KING
    Joined: Apr 6, 2005
    Posts: 3,614

    B.A.KING
    Member

    I'm not being a dick here please don't take it that way, but are you sure it's leaking around the studs? not from pinion seal? Good ole RTV should seal that puppy right up. Have you cleaned the center section REAL good to look for cracks. They do crack from time to time. Good luck and let us know what you find
     
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  28. Lebowski
    Joined: Aug 21, 2011
    Posts: 1,570

    Lebowski
    BANNED

    I'm not sure where it's leaking from. Where exactly is the pinion seal? Is this the stuff I'm supposed to use? Can I put it on without taking anything apart? Thanks for checking back and asking about the leak.... :)

    7740016_ptx_81182_pri_larg.jpg
     
  29. B.A.KING
    Joined: Apr 6, 2005
    Posts: 3,614

    B.A.KING
    Member

    Pinion seal is at front where U joint is. could be running back to bottom of case. Sorry ,but i think you may have to take it back apart. You can use what you have there but i prefer the Blue silicone. Buy you some brake cleaner a roll or 2 of the blue paper towels, get a drip pan, a wire brush and clean that baby all over so you can see where its leaking first. You MIGHT , MIGHT be able to put some sealant under washer/bolts and stop leak IF thats where its coming from. Can you post a pic of the rear end.(don't think i've ever said that before) and where you think its leaking?
     
  30. Lebowski
    Joined: Aug 21, 2011
    Posts: 1,570

    Lebowski
    BANNED

    I'm probably just going to live with the leak because Junkyard Jeff came over from Dayton (for the 6th time-the first 5 times were for the engine swap) and put it together and I don't want him to make another trip over here. I've got an old Chevy hub cap under it now so I guess every month or so I'll just put the oil that leaked out back in. Is there any kind of stop leak that I can put in there?
     

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