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Technical Is my new crate motor done? Metal Flakes!

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by scoggman, Jun 23, 2014.

  1. I'm not an engine building guru but I would do exactly what the dealership told you to do. Anything
    different and you risk them refusing a warranty claim.
  2. stimpy
    Joined: Apr 16, 2006
    Posts: 3,547


    you have to check the APi Certification label and do not assume its the same stuff , as my store sells both YOu want API Cj not Ci rotella , and as with diesels , most have been using roller lifters for years in heavy trucks/ farm equipment so the cutting back zinc will not hurt them at all .

    any motor oil you can add the zddp additive to
  3. johnybsic
    Joined: Oct 8, 2009
    Posts: 612

    from las vegas

    CJ-4 is the newer formulation, (post 2007) with the reduced zinc levels reduced (to around 1100-1200'ish ppm), but its still perfectly suitable for flat tappets. That all that's available anymore since the EPA stepped in, due to the ultra low sulfur fuels and diesel DPF's being installed.
    CI-4 was the "more robust" version, some stock may still remain but i haven't found any CI-4 in gallon jugs for about 4-5 years.
    On a side note, Rotella is also JASO certified for motorcycle people out there, there's no need for pricey motorcycle specific oils. Its what i use in Harleys and Japanese dirt bikes as well.

    Check out the link for API ratings, Print it out and out it on the wall of your garage. Its good info and very handy.

    I'm sure the OP already has his issue worked out, and whether you run a heavy duty engine oil is purely a personal choice. I choose to use it in my hotrods/trucks/dirtbikes/jeeps/sandtoys/harleys/lawn mower/ generators etc. Understand There is NO one size fits all engine oil. Always follow the manufacture recommendations along with consulting the API label on the bottle, use common sense. I give all mine the same oil because it fits the criteria for everything in my fleet and then some, Its also way nice buying gallons of the stuff for $12 and running the same stock in everything *Smiles*
  4. 73RR
    Joined: Jan 29, 2007
    Posts: 6,285


    Not knowing what the EPA will mandate next week, remember that most of the oil 'we' commonly use will also be available in 50gal drums and usually at a slight $/gal discount.
  5. scoggman
    Joined: Feb 25, 2009
    Posts: 471


    Hey guys, just as an update. I've got about 800 miles on the crate motor so far, no issues, good power, nice little motor (knock on wood). Been running the Valvoline vr1 race oil with half a bottle of lucas break on zinc additive. oil looks cleaner each change (done 4 so far). I guess the crate motors are just really dirty. I'll keep you posted on the progress!

    Just hate it when people leave threads open.
  6. I have been following this some along the way. I'm glad to hear all is well. I, too, have seen dirty crate motors that ended up OK. I had a friend that bought one a few years back and he pulled the pan immediately. There were shavings in the pan bottom. He cleaned it up, put it together and ran it changing the oil frequently. It has been fine.

    I always change the oil in my new cars early and add a magnetic pan plug. You would be surprised what is on them the second oil change. They do get cleaner as you go.
  7. wvenfield
    Joined: Nov 23, 2006
    Posts: 5,044


    Only 800 miles since July? It's going to rust.
  8. scoggman
    Joined: Feb 25, 2009
    Posts: 471


    Yeah, I added one of those magnetic plugs and I also put some crazy strong magnets on the filter and the pan right next to the plug. Hopefully it helps!
  9. scoggman
    Joined: Feb 25, 2009
    Posts: 471


    I know..... we have a new baby..... and we live in Arkansas..... "If you like the weather..... wait 10 minutes"
    wvenfield likes this.
  10. jimcolwell
    Joined: Oct 4, 2009
    Posts: 474

    from Amarillo

    I am a 350 crate user. I installed my new engine, primed the oil pump on 5w30 oil, fired it up and ran it at about 1000 RPM without water until the heads got hot, shut it down and let it cool over night. Installed coolant and drove it until the oil got dirty and changed it with 5w30 oil. I change the oil when it starts to discolor and have driven it for 10 years. I don't think the engine has a warranty unless it is a replacement in a unmodified vehicle. I think the engine is fine. How's the tourque:)
    scoggman likes this.
  11. Don's Hot Rods
    Joined: Oct 7, 2005
    Posts: 8,319

    Don's Hot Rods
    from florida

    Glad it worked out for you and the motor is ok. I haven't seen a motor yet that didn't have a lot of dirt and trash in the oil after the initial break in period. No matter how you scrub them, some of that machining dust won't come out till you change the oil. That is why I change it immediately after break in, then do it again about a hundred miles after that. Oil is the cheapest thing you will ever put into an engine.

    scoggman, Hotrodmyk and Frankie47 like this.

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