Is a TH350 Kickdown cable Nessasary???

On the overdrive trans the kickdown is nessasary, right? But on the th350 is it put downshifting only or. . . . ???

 

I never run them. They aren't needed. In fact on really light cars with power, they scare me when they down shift when I'm not ready.

 

Now I know. Thanks Homie.

 

Same here. I never ran one on my 23 and we eliminated it on my Son's rpu. With the power to weight ratio of these hot rods just opening up the end carbs is more than enough power. And if you want to downshift you just move the shifter to 2nd and do it that way.

Don

 

I never run one with a stall, if its a stock /mild engine and trans combo (daily driver)Ill hook it up.
Whats the rest of your combo?

 

I never put one on my roadster when I first built it, 350 Chevy w/TH350 trans. I installed one over the winter and it was a waste of time and money. I've got around 275 H.P. and 3:91 gears and I much prefer downshifting by hand when I want it, which is very seldom with the 3:91 gears.

 

What about this combo?
400sbc with maybe 300hp a stock 350 and 2.79 gears...31" tire

Should I bother with it? I don't mind manually down shifting.

 

Depends what its in. 71 chevy 1/2 ton pickup,,,, I would. 23 t bucket,,,, I wouldnt.

 

Reason I'm not a fan of them, had a friend with a t bucket. Was on the hwy doing 65 or so. Stomped the pedal to go around a car. It down shifted, tires broke loose, lost control, car was totaled and he was REALLY lucky to survive it.

 

Ed Zachery!

 

I always hook them up,,when I step on it to pass another car I wan't to get around them. HRP

 

didn't have one on mine either. just kicked it down manually if I wanted to.

 

I like having a working kickdown. And I use it enough that I'm familiar with how the car behaves when I stomp the go pedal.

But you don't need to install it if you don't mind the transmission not working how it was designed.

 

Ed Zachary

 

i love your posts...

 

Yeah, that would help. '37 Ford pickup

 

If it were mine, I would run it, but its not manditory for it to drive normally.

 

It's important to understand that you're describing two different things. On the 3-speeds (TH350, TH400, etc.), the "kickdown" is indeed just that. When actuated, the transmission shifts down into 2nd gear. That is all, and as such, is NOT required unless you want that functionality. On the OD transmissions (700R4, 2004R, etc.) the "kickdown" is NOT that. It's a TV cable, which operates the Throttle Valve inside the transmission, and is NECESSARY to be installed and PROPERLY adjusted so you don't burn up the transmission. It has nothing specifically to do with the transmission dropping down a gear when you mash the pedal. Leave the TV cable off and plan on replacing your transmission in days or hours.

 

I like your post Jim,I also hook them up.

 

As several of the guys said it isn't a necessity to have one but on full size cars it makes things work a bit nicer. Along with the kick down it will hold the trans in gear a bit longer during serious acceleration while a trans without one tends to shift through the gears rather quickly and you are in drive on the other side of the intersection.
I drove my 51 Merc with an Olds 350R and turbo 350 about 70 K without one including a road trip to Texas and Bonneville in 1988.

 

the one in my 29 is hooked up but when the carb and the kick down comes in at the same time it can interesting

 

The way I see it, if you have it use it, properly set up, its a delight to have a partial kick down at low speed with moderate throttle pressure. It also helps with an all out assault on the line up of cars you want to get by when the blue hair at the front is only going 40 miles per hour.
The kickdown on my th350 in my 36 ford pickup is properly adjusted, has been for 14 years, wouldn't consider running without it. Its like running a four barrel carb with only the primaries working. I say hook it up.

 

That combo would work awesome. I'd possibly consider going up a little on the rear gear, especially with a 31" tire. Somewhere between a 3.0 and a 3.20 gear would give you some snap around town and it wouldn't be singing going down the freeway.

A 300hp 400sbc could be built using almost 100% stock parts. A small cam, aluminum intake, and headers, and you're looking at an easy 325 horsepower.

 

I went through this a while back and everyone said don't do it. So, I didn't, but what I did do was talk to the guy who built my tranny. He laid it down real simple. A car, like a T Bucket, less than 2,000 pounds, NO. Heavier than 2,000, you'll like it.


Now, back when he was asking me how I wanted my car to shift, I told him I wanted it to "catch hard" in the 1st to 2nd shift, then slide into 3rd. And that's what he did for me. So, later, I had to take it back to him and we went for a ride. That's when I asked about the kick down. After stomping on it from a dead stop a few times and it catching rubber going into second (and going side ways), he asked me if i'd like my little car to do that at 65 MPH. So...... I didn't hook it up and when I get on it, it passes cars like I had it hooked up.

 

I hooked it up on my '32 Coupe. 350 sbc with tri-power running 3:00 gears.

 

I had one car w/o (34 Dodge sedan),and one with 36 Chev p/u.
Both had mild/stock motors and shift kit in 350 turbo trans.
I prefer the kick down to manually doing it,but I can see the point of low gears,built motors in a light car.

 

guys im havin major problems with adjusting my kickdown on my 1976 th350. sorry to hijack i cant seem to open a thread? iv got an edelbrock carb and lokar throttle and kickdown with bracket. when adjusting you put your carb at WOT then pull the kickdown cable out all the way and tighten it down. i get that but after i pull the cable all the way out, if i pull harder it comes out about another 3/8". now is included in the set up or do you not want it coming out that much?

when i have it tight and am cruising and i floor it, the trans goes into a neutral state for a second or two, gets the shit reved out of it, then slams into 2nd roasting my tires. but if i have it adjusted to where it gets snug without the last 3/8" coming out it seems to not want to kick down when step into it.

but i guess on the bright side - yes i can light my tires up with a 60 mph rolling start

sorry for hijack

 

Yes.

 

Can the cable simply be cut if I don't want it or does the pan need to be removed and some disassembly performed inside?

 

You could just cut it, but why do it the back woods way? Disconnect it properly, so your setup looks nice. It's one of my pet peeves, to look under a hood and where someone got lazy and skipped a step. Plus, you may want to reinstall it one day.

Go down to the transmission where the cable boot is held in place by a bolt. Remove the bolt, lift up on the cable boot assy. and disconnect the cable from the actuating rod. Reinstall cable boot and bolt.No need to cut anything.