I am getting ready to scrap out a 87 El Camino. The back of the frame is gone due to rust. I know it is not a Camero or Nova subframe but has anyone used one on a 50's truck to get the benifits of the newer suspension and handling characteristics.
Its G-Body stuff, which makes it pretty much the same as a Malibu, Monte Carlo, Turbo Buick, etc. I'm pretty sure that Monte Carlo is a suggested swap for early 50's GM trucks? Anyway, its probably not done too often, but you should have no trouble getting parts and stuff. Most of these cars are still on the road around here, so just geting replacements wouldn't be no trouble. And there is certainly an G-Body aftermarket.
shame it's only half the truck...Elky's are typically boxed. yes and no. the front end stuff is really well put together, and fairly narrow. problem is, the places you would use to mount to and weld to are funky shaped, so it would be a bit of a pain to stick it together. I have seen entire chassis swaps done, but I feel a bit "iffy" about a clip. (not to mention 87 wasn't exactly a "banner year" for steel quality from g.m. it fell off around 85 and got better in 94, but by then only the Impala was worth screwing with.) that said, if you find an a-body from 64 to 72, I have heard that the upper control arms,springs, and spindles are a pretty good disc brake swap (may be talking total shit,too- I haven't done that one myself.) it would work, but only the tape measure will tell you the whole story.
Yeah, El Caminos got their own fairly unique chassis by '78. Still used G-Body parts though. And I didn't know GM's steel quality dropped off in '85, I know they did move to mexico by the early-mid 80's with the El Camino production.
I would use the 'sub'frame, and have (an A body, 'bout the same). As far as the 'funky' weld areas, try this: cut the subframe rails at the corners, all four, both sides. Now peel the metal back like a banana. Slide the sub up OVER the rails you're welding it to. Bend the banana peels back, and you have a very large, very secure weld connection, and an easy mating as well. If the OEM rails are not boxed, do that beforehand. If they're very narrow, pie cut and spread, then box, then add subframe. I've done all this on different cars (and trucks) and it works nicely. Plus, A bodies are very cheap, and the subframe's dimensions are really very close for a lot of vehicles. P.S. Yes, one I did was a '53 Chevy truck. Worked very well. Cosmo