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Projects Introduction and needed guidance...

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by 335wcoupe, Oct 7, 2019.

  1. 335wcoupe
    Joined: Jun 19, 2012
    Posts: 38

    335wcoupe
    Member

    not a hijack at all! are you running a stock spring and cross member in the rear? I like the stance you have and if I could achieve that, I'd be happy.
     
    Boneyard51 likes this.
  2. Dino 64
    Joined: Jul 13, 2012
    Posts: 1,778

    Dino 64
    Member
    from Virginia

    So what color is it ? I like it, it’s too nice to chop IMHO
    Great car, great story.....enjoy and welcome
     
    lothiandon1940 likes this.
  3. 335wcoupe
    Joined: Jun 19, 2012
    Posts: 38

    335wcoupe
    Member

    It's Grey. :) I'm a little embarrassed to say, but it is a Toyota color. I think they just started using it in 2018 or 2019. I've seen it on some Tacoma's around town.

    Although I know better than to never say never, I'll never chop this car. There are fewer and fewer not chopped 33/34's out there. I am doing things to improve the drive ability, but I want it to be easy to go back to stock if I or the next guy wants to.
     
  4. Dino 64
    Joined: Jul 13, 2012
    Posts: 1,778

    Dino 64
    Member
    from Virginia

    I agree so few like it, leave it without a chop, we all use colors from whatever, no harm in that. I’m planning gray as well so I’m curious exactly which gray it is, color code? Year, model ?
    Thanks
     
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  5. 56shoebox
    Joined: Sep 14, 2011
    Posts: 1,106

    56shoebox

    Nothing wrong with that stance from here.
     
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  6. 335wcoupe
    Joined: Jun 19, 2012
    Posts: 38

    335wcoupe
    Member

    I'll try to get the paint code for you. might be a few weeks, my painter is out of town.
     
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  7. lodaddyo
    Joined: May 5, 2002
    Posts: 1,155

    lodaddyo
    Member

    Brad, Awesome car and story you have!. I am in Gonzales too., If you need any help or have any questions id love to come check out your project, just send me a pm. good luck on your project, love the color too
    Ryan
     
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  8. anthony myrick
    Joined: Sep 4, 2009
    Posts: 4,993

    anthony myrick
    Member

  9. 335wcoupe
    Joined: Jun 19, 2012
    Posts: 38

    335wcoupe
    Member

    Yeah, I thought about those, but after seeing some pics of some nice looking cars with the original 17s I think I am going to run them with 550's in the front and 700's in the back. I am anxious to get this car on the road so I am going to take the advice of several on this thread and use what I got and get her on the road. I can spend the rest of my life tweaking it if I want. :)
     
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  10. 421-6Speed
    Joined: Dec 10, 2011
    Posts: 297

    421-6Speed
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Great build and story. Keep up the good work...
     
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  11. Corn Fed
    Joined: May 16, 2002
    Posts: 2,656

    Corn Fed
    Member

    Here's my 2 cents:
    Many people have stated to flatten the rear crossmember. That might be ok if you were still in the initial phase of building, but you aren't. So I'd suggest that you just try a reversed eye rear spring with a few of the leaves taken out to see if that gets you to a height you like.
    For the front, you should get a dropped original Ford axle (or have yours dropped) from any of the guys that are doing them. You should also get some '37-48 spindles and have the arms dropped the needed amount. Maybe the axle dropping guys can do that for you too when they do the axle.
    Reverse the front spring eyes and remove a few leaves.
    Don't split the front bones.
    Use a "hoop" steering arm.
    Run '40-48 brakes all around.
    Use '35 wires all around (don't forget the special adapter rings needed for use with later drums).
    Use your stock '34 steering box unless it's not rebuildable, then use an F1 or F100.
    Keep the stock 21 stud & 3 spd trans until you can build a nice 24 stud and '39ish trans.
     
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  12. lodaddyo
    Joined: May 5, 2002
    Posts: 1,155

    lodaddyo
    Member

    This is solid advice, and definitely the way i would go.
     
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  13. Stephen Barrett
    Joined: Sep 24, 2019
    Posts: 714

    Stephen Barrett
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    AMAZING! $18 WOW! Nice ride. Good luck with it and have fun.
     
  14. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 14,693

    alchemy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    You can get a lot of lowering done just with the springs. There are tons of threads with guys showing how they did their reversed eye main leaves (lowers 1") at home with a cheapo Horrible Freight 20 ton press. Then you could probably remove a leaf or two from the front for a bit softer ride. And you could adjust the height a touch more by taking a bit of arch out of every leaf (lowers another inch or more).

    My 32 sedan has a stock rear spring (including all the original leaves) that has the original main leaf, not reversed. The leaves are slightly de-arched. It has about 2.5" before the axle hits the rubber bumper. You could go lower if you can stand it. It's a weekend job to remove the spring, do some de-arching in the press, and reassemble. Sneak up on it, and change it if you need more.

    Bhambdrags2.jpg
     
  15. Boneyard51
    Joined: Dec 10, 2017
    Posts: 3,343

    Boneyard51
    Member

    There is a traditional way to get the same effect as the overdrive transmission you mentioned. That is a “Columbia” rear end. It’s a bolt in two speed rear end, that gives you 4:11 gears and 3:00 gears, usually. They are not cheap, but would be close in price to the conversation. They would easier to install that the modern overdrive transmission and would keep with tradition. I recently sold a complete unit for $1500.





    Bones
     
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  16. 335wcoupe
    Joined: Jun 19, 2012
    Posts: 38

    335wcoupe
    Member

    I'm going to start with reversing the springs and go from there. The main question I am mulling over right now is if I should stay with the 17" wires or find some 1935 16" ones.

    I have basically scratched the T5 option. The Columbia is an option.
     
  17. 16" or 17" may not matter in the end. It's tire dia. your after. Once you decide what that is check and see if that size is made in 17" to fit the wheels you have.
     
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  18. Corn Fed
    Joined: May 16, 2002
    Posts: 2,656

    Corn Fed
    Member

    What width are the 17" rims? I think the 16" are 4" wide.
     
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  19. anthony myrick
    Joined: Sep 4, 2009
    Posts: 4,993

    anthony myrick
    Member

    17s should be 3.5 inches wide
    you can widen them if desired
    a lathe and good welder, the wheel kid (hope thats correct) can do that. dont know the pricing
     
    Stogy likes this.
  20. anthony myrick
    Joined: Sep 4, 2009
    Posts: 4,993

    anthony myrick
    Member

    finally got to look at your car on something bigger than my phone
    that thing just needs a little spring work in the back
    I would start with the spring on the front as well, then possibly have the front axle stretched if more drop was needed

    there are several threads hear on de-arching and reversing springs here
    springs are not very expensive pieces to purchase new either
     
    Stogy likes this.
  21. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 14,693

    alchemy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I actually changed from 16" steelies to the stock 18" wires this past year. With 7.00 and 5.50 Excelsiors.

    IMG_0335.JPG
     
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  22. Stephen Barrett
    Joined: Sep 24, 2019
    Posts: 714

    Stephen Barrett
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    That is sweet. Love the stance and color.
     
    Stogy likes this.
  23. Keep it simple for awhile and enjoy as your grandpa would have.....your a very lucky man to have it in your garage.
     
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  24. Stephen Barrett
    Joined: Sep 24, 2019
    Posts: 714

    Stephen Barrett
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I hear ya on the T5 in first gear I have one in my car with a Flathead and I get a little more than 10 feet but not much more. It doesn't really bother me to much and it does do 60 on the highway pretty comfortably. I'm not doing hole shots with it but I still have fun with it. I'm not sure what the gears are though. It works for me. Great info.
     
  25. alfin32
    Joined: Jun 20, 2006
    Posts: 1,340

    alfin32
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Essex, Ma.

    3" dropped / drilled '32 Big Beam, stock crossmembers, reversed eye springs.
    Killer stance, but turning radius sucks. May have to reverse engineer something.
     
    335wcoupe likes this.
  26. ...concerning T-5's,...does it really matter, they don't show, and you're building the car to drive today, not in 1950-1960's...T-5's are saving our old engines....put an old Hurst shifter in and drive.///awesome car you are building!
     
    Last edited: Nov 1, 2019
    j-jock likes this.
  27. dumprat
    Joined: Dec 27, 2006
    Posts: 2,381

    dumprat
    Member
    from b.c.

    Guys he doesn't need a hoop steering arm, the 34 spindles has a top arm.

    I have a 34 pickup. Same chassis.
    I have reverse eye spring and a 2" dropped axle. It sits plenty low. I went with 16" wheels with 5:00/7:00 tires. 7:50 on the rear looks too tall and narrow.

    You don't need to cut up anything on the frame, or chassis. Some gentle heat on the steering arms will put them in the right spots. It requires knowledge of how to do it right.
     
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  28. dumprat
    Joined: Dec 27, 2006
    Posts: 2,381

    dumprat
    Member
    from b.c.

    I should point out everyone on this forum should know you can build this whole car into a nice hot rod and never have to weld anything!
    And you certainly don't need to cut into a car this nice!
     
    335wcoupe likes this.
  29. I wouldn't worry too much about what ya should do, do what ya want and hell with the rest. I think the 33-34 Ford was the most beautiful production car ever produced and you have a very special one that will always mean a great deal to you. Love that ya are going with gramps wishes thats also something special. Keep it Flat!!!!!!
     
    335wcoupe likes this.
  30. WC Durant
    Joined: Apr 10, 2017
    Posts: 110

    WC Durant
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

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