I'll go out on a limb here and say this is a good example of what Not to do. I understand the Model A spring with the Quick Change. Had this been done with Spring behind the housing instead of on top there would be no need for the Large kick in the frame that leads to major floor work.
Count me among those in the, no need to box the frame crowd. Very great job going on it so far. Your a smart man for asking questions about what your doing if your not sure.
I don’t like the big kick up either. Just the best example of a model a x member I could find in a hurry It also shows the front x member The only 33 we built had this style front x member.
anthony; What would you think about him just doing a light snip to the rear crossmember and raising the center 2 or 3 inches and leaving everything else rear Axle related as is?
That’s how I’m told the old guys done it back in the day. If I were building a trad style 33-34, I think I would modify both the front and the rear X members and use reversed eye springs. But I would want it all assembled with the tires I’m gonna run before any mods would start. If all ya need is a 4 inch drop in the front a flatter x member and reversed eye springs would accomplish that with out modifying the front axle. Modifying the rear x member is the simplest method to lower the back of one of these in my worthless opinion The model A x member would be used for a severe dropped fenderless car only for me.
While I'm at it giving advice I'd also like to say the T-5 is not what I'd do to this specific car. For me a Hurst shifter connected to a 4 Speed is the only thing that would look Old School correct. I also like the overdrive stuff that makes our Old Stuff more comfy on today's highways. A good old GM 883 would be my only choice. It's the best of both worlds.
I would rock that 3 spd all day long with some highway friendly gears added to the old banjo that car is just screaming old school
I don't. It just seems to be the most common thing I see at car shows and on the internet. I appreciate all suggestions and I surely do not take offense at any of them. I know that I want to upgrade the brakes for sure. I guess I was thinking about lowering the front and rear first and then getting the wheels and tires to fit. Sounds like that is backwards. This is my first build of any kind so I am learning as I go. That decision is a little farther down the road for me but I appreciate the input. T5 is just what I have seen most often on the internet. My goal is to be able to drive comfortably at highway speeds (55 - 60 mph). I guess my best path forward is to get my rims done, buy the tires I want, get the brake conversion done. I'm also going to install headers and dual exhaust. From there put it together and drive a little and then figure out the stance from there. I thought it would be easier to install the suspension stuff with the body and fenders off the car but I trust all the knowledge on this board over my own for sure. Let me know if I am off base still. Brad
Brad; I've been doing this for a very long time both Hobby and Business. In fact I'm retired now, just haven't stopped on the Hobby side. When a Customer would bring a dream to me I often told them to get the actual wheels and tires they wanted in the end and I'd build the Car so they fit and worked. So far that's worked out pretty well. To date every Flathead powered Hot Rod I've been in with a T-5 first gear from a standing start has only been good for about 10 feet. They generally take off better in second, not to say that can't be corrected. The main reason I make other choices is the fact that Flatheads don't have the Torque band or R.P.M. range of newer motors. It's very easy to over gear a Flathead and take the Fun out of driving them. The one Flathead powered Toy in my collection runs a 39 gearbox, 3:78 rear gears and 30" tall tires. It's a time proven combination that will give me all the Fun I want and let me Freeway as far as I want to go. If I thought there was an actual better combination I sure would have done it. Something else I've learned over my years at it is that for every sound reason I have for doing things my way someone else will have a counter and explanation as to why there way is a better choice. It's just the way it is. Best advice is stay the course and get it on the road. Small changes are easy to make after that.
someone smarter than me will have to set ya straight on the gears for the 34 down axle Im more familiar with the 35 up axle another thing to consider for the T5 and others is the closed to open conversion needed for the driveshaft
I can’t offer advice,,, but I can offer praise. You have done excellent work so far,,,,keep up the good work! Seems that you have pretty good ideas on your own account,,,keep going in the direction you are going. Man,,, I almost broke down reading your grandpas letter. That is a real treasure. Funny thing is ,,,I write notes like that all the time. Hoping that someone in the future finds them and will have some insight as to what kind of person I am. I’m serious,,,I word them just like that too,,,it was almost spooky reading it. I’m certain your grand pa was a fantastic man. I can only hope my children feel the same about me,,,I don’t have any grand babies yet. If the Lord is willing,,,maybe someday! Tommy
The car... Your story... The note... Wow. All the luck! Sent from my VS835 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
He was a great man. WWII vet. 82nd Airborne. 2 Purple Hearts, Bronze Star. Raised 4 kids on a small farm in South East MO. Keep writing. It’ll mean something to someone one day. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
this is the only 33/34 I have worked on we used a hand built flatter front x member, reversed eye spring probably from Posies, and a stretched (lowered) 32 Ford axle with hair pins. The no fenders lets us do some things differently than with fenders. This is why I would chose the tires and wheels and fit with the fenders with all the weight on the car. (at least engine and trans). This way you can dial in the stance you want.
This is the stance I want: Here is the car mocked up before paint The wheels are original 17" wires. I am thinking I need to go with 15" or 16" wheels to get the look I want. Whatcha think?
The issue with the 17s for me is how narrow they are. The 16s and 15s we had on a ride at work were perfect but the 16s were widened and the 15s were 16s that were modified. Not a cheap route Look up Coker tire, wheel vintiques, and the wheel smith
https://www.wheelvintiques.com/street-rod-wire-powder-coat.html http://www.rallyamerica.com/site/c3...http://rallyamerica.com/Wire_Wheels.html#2815 The big online performance stores also sell them like jegs and sumit
I like the stance of the car as it was before paint, wouldn't change a thing. The paint color is awesome, is it a vintage Ford color?
The way I understand it is that the t5 should get you booted off this forum. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
In my 33 pickup I ran a stock 40 ford engine and used a T-5...loved it. I bolted a flat Hurst handle on it and kept my business to myself. My 34 in the avatar has a boxed frame but you won't need to....same with split bones. Not necessary. I'd do what I did with my 33 pickup on steering. I used a 39 ford cross-steer box. It was close on the left exhaust manifold so I used headers on it. No bump-steer and smooooooooth, effortless steering. I used a "welders series" front cross member in my coupe but flattening a stock cross member will work. There's plenty of radiator clearance. Unless your going to run a quick change rear axle, I'd flatten the original rear crossmember and take a few leaves out of the spring 'till I got my ride height where I wanted it. Have fun with it. I slapped together this AMT five window just to see how I'd like mine with fenders....I likes it. Yours is gonna be dreamy.
Its not a vintage Ford color but I think it looks vintage. I considered going with black but found this color right before going to paint.
335wcoupe..... Much like prime riverside bottom land; unless you are independently wealthy, you are born into owning a 32-34 Ford V8. Bolt that Joker together and run it! You already have great stuff. You already have the ingredients for a great pre-war car. You already have it! Put it together like it is and run it! If you have to have a T5.....buy a Beater Fox Body to scratch that itch.....drive the 5.0 around. Get it out of your system. For a true experience most of us can only dream of, keep that V8 pre-war. Life is too short..... get that V8 Ford on the road!
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