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Projects Introduction and needed guidance...

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by 335wcoupe, Oct 7, 2019.

  1. 335wcoupe
    Joined: Jun 19, 2012
    Posts: 36

    335wcoupe
    Member

    Hi All...

    I am in the process of finishing my 1933 5W Coupe. This car was purchased by my grandfather in 1955 for $18. He drove it to his barn in Southeast MO and it sat there until the late 70's when he brought it to his house and began working on it. All he was able to accomplish before his death was to get the frame cleaned up and painted and to gather quite a few parts for the car. He did replace the floor and lower qtr panels but since he was an amateur, it was not well done. He passed away in 2006 and in 2012, I was able to build a shop and go get the car and bring it down to Louisiana where I live.

    Here is how the car looked when I picked it up

    19230_10200111765550477_1028201582_n.jpg

    Since 2012 I have had the metal work done properly, and had it painted. This is how it looks today:

    IMG_5247.JPG

    The flathead is a 1935 that runs good. What I would like to do is build a traditional Hotrod out of it. I am converting to 12 volts, going with Juice brakes and lowering the car. I am thinking 4" in the front and 2" in the back.

    My question is what is the best way to go about doing all of this? I have reached out to Richard Lacy about brakes, but I need some help with front and rear suspension. I Like the look of the I beam front axle with the split wishbone style arms. Do I need to box the frame? Can I keep the steering stock? (The steering feels good with little if any play)

    I have been reading all of the threads I can find on this subject but would appreciate any suggestions on my specific build.

    Thanks in advance.

    Brad
     
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  2. partsdawg
    Joined: Feb 12, 2006
    Posts: 2,428

    partsdawg
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Minnesota

    You have come to the right place.
    Your questions will be answered.
     
  3. Slopok
    Joined: Jan 30, 2012
    Posts: 2,304

    Slopok
    Member

    Gramps couldn't've made a better investment!:cool:
     
  4. If you're keeping the flathead and 3 speed DO NOT split the wishbones, the way it is designed by Ford is superior to frame mounted radius rods. That modification is only necessary when the drive line is altered or a different engine with larger oil pan is installed. Boxing the frame is also unnecessary for even a pepped up flathead, the x brace is plenty strong to handle the torsional load. If the steering is OK I'd leave it alone, if it wears out a good upgrade is an F1 steering gear. Drop axle in front and a flattened rear crossmember should lower it the amount you want. Keep it simple as possible, the more things you change then more other issues will pop up that will need to be addressed to compensate the alterations.
     
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  5. gordspeed
    Joined: Jul 9, 2013
    Posts: 210

    gordspeed
    Member
    from Oregon

    I like the new color and it looks good so far! I'll be watching! :)
     
  6. anthony myrick
    Joined: Sep 4, 2009
    Posts: 4,453

    anthony myrick
    Member
    from al

    No need to split the bones
    No need to box the chassis with the flatty
    You can have the stock front axle dropped.
    Reversed eye springs and possibly flatten the rear x member.
    Are ya gonna run fenders?
    Keep the stock wires. 560 /600 fronts. 720/750rears
    Super cool car
     
    Last edited: Oct 7, 2019
  7. anthony myrick
    Joined: Sep 4, 2009
    Posts: 4,453

    anthony myrick
    Member
    from al

  8. You got some good advice given already. A dropped Axle should be a bolt in for the direction your headed, and I like that direction. Boxing the frame with your package is wasted time and money. Good job so far, Gramps would be proud.
     
  9. 335wcoupe
    Joined: Jun 19, 2012
    Posts: 36

    335wcoupe
    Member

    I am running full fenders. Thanks for the input guys! I'll keep you all posted on my progress.

    For now I'm keeping the stock Flatty and 3 Spd. I'd like to eventually build one of the later model flatheads and possibly mate it to a T5. That is down the road. It has been so long that I am ready to finish this thing and have some fun driving it. I just don't want to rush and not do it right.

    Anthony,

    Sorry for the noob question, but can you tell me what you mean by 560 fronts and 720 rears?
     
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  10. 335wcoupe
    Joined: Jun 19, 2012
    Posts: 36

    335wcoupe
    Member

    Check out this letter My grandpa wrote in 1979. I found it stuffed inside the rear spreader bar. Grandpasnoteedit.jpg
     
  11. I like what I see, and I like full fenders. I also agree with the advice above regarding not splitting the wishbones or boxing the frame.
    The only change I would make, would be to buy a later, 24 stud engine to have as a replacement of the 21 stud engine you are working with.
    Bob
     
  12. 335wcoupe
    Joined: Jun 19, 2012
    Posts: 36

    335wcoupe
    Member

    J-Jock,

    Thats the plan but I figured I'd run this one for now and get a 24 stud block and build it as time and money allowed.
     
  13. pumpman
    Joined: Dec 6, 2010
    Posts: 2,524

    pumpman
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Amazing and heart felt. You just don’t make this stuff up !!!!! Keep all of this close to your heart.
     
  14. anthony myrick
    Joined: Sep 4, 2009
    Posts: 4,453

    anthony myrick
    Member
    from al

    It’s a bias tire size reference
    It’s the standard “big and little” tired ran on trad style hotrods
    I think I should have said 750s for a 16 inch wire wheel

    I would fit fenders, purchase tires then adjust stance.
     
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  15. anthony myrick
    Joined: Sep 4, 2009
    Posts: 4,453

    anthony myrick
    Member
    from al

  16. stuart in mn
    Joined: Nov 22, 2007
    Posts: 1,677

    stuart in mn
    Member

    The color is excellent. :)
     
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  17. duncan
    Joined: Aug 23, 2006
    Posts: 984

    duncan
    Member

    That’s very nice, your Grandfather would be proud.
     
    Boneyard51 likes this.
  18. nochop
    Joined: Nov 13, 2005
    Posts: 1,007

    nochop
    Member
    from norcal

    Welcome to the club
     
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  19. 335wcoupe
    Joined: Jun 19, 2012
    Posts: 36

    335wcoupe
    Member

    Thanks guys! I have been lurking here for years. Glad I finally decided to join in.

    Here is a picture of the dash and gauges. The Maroon is the color of the window garnish as well. I am going with the same color for the wheels.


    IMG_2267.JPG
     
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  20. Very pretty!
    Bob
     
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  21. WB69
    Joined: Dec 7, 2008
    Posts: 818

    WB69
    Member

    Looking good! Tons of knowledge available here. Guys know what they are talking about. Welcome aboard.
     
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  22. Love your color choices already. Some great advice so far. Keep up the good work.
     
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  23. 335wcoupe
    Joined: Jun 19, 2012
    Posts: 36

    335wcoupe
    Member

    I have a couple more questions...

    1. If put a 4" drop in the axle, will I need to modify the steering arm?

    2. I have seen bolt on upper shock mounts for tube shocks in the front, does anyone make bolt on mounts for the rear?

    Brad
     
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  24. anthony myrick
    Joined: Sep 4, 2009
    Posts: 4,453

    anthony myrick
    Member
    from al

    Steering arms will need modifications
     
  25. [​IMG][​IMG] upload_2019-10-8_8-56-12.jpeg upload_2019-10-8_8-56-34.jpeg [​IMG]
    So Yes to all your questions. Everything can be bolted on in simple form. These samples were just a Google search away.
     
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  26. Great car !
     
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  27. anthony myrick
    Joined: Sep 4, 2009
    Posts: 4,453

    anthony myrick
    Member
    from al

    not to be butt, but how do ya know ya need a 4inch drop axle?
     
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  28. cabriolethiboy
    Joined: Jun 16, 2002
    Posts: 864

    cabriolethiboy
    Member

    What a great story. This brings tears to eyes because I am building a car with my grandson. Your grandfather is looking down and is very proud of you. Please do not do all of the trendy stuff to this car (chopped top, LS motor, aluminum wheels, etc.). You are getting very good advice so far and I like what you are doing. Try to use as much early Ford stuff as you can.
     
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  29. anthony myrick
    Joined: Sep 4, 2009
    Posts: 4,453

    anthony myrick
    Member
    from al

  30. Very valid question. For me and knowing your running Fenders I'd fully finish the car as is. Once you drive the car and get the spring setteled down measure the space between the Top of the tire to the Fender. Take that number subtract a minimum of 2". That's the total amount of Drop you can get away with. You may find a 4" is to much drop,,,, if there is such a thing.
    Prime example, 4.5" drop and 1/2" above tires. Looks way Kool,, can't drive it.
    20180404_153218.jpg
     

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