The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Just Gary, Sep 18, 2006.
Watching! Care to share tire and wheel sizes? Nice combination of height and width
Any more progress ?
Looks good so far. Maybe we will meet up @ MOKAN.
I'm finishing the rear subrails & will post pictures this weekend.
Thanks for your interest.
Hey 'Beaner, it should move under it's own power this summer and be shiny next summer...
I am kind of shooting for the same time frame. LOL My body is a little rougher then yours though. It would make a good pic, yours mine and @Roothawg , smooth a little rough and real rough.
really a cool build, good luck and save some money for more rear tires, hot man hot
I just finished mating the body & frame.
At the firewall, the frame is heavily pinched so it’s narrower than the cowl “feet”. I removed the stock wood blocks &cut off the lower feet.
Now the body rests on the upper feet.
I trimmed the outter ends of the stock transverse floor braces so it rests directly on the frame there too…
…then trimmed some of the wood floor’s flanges were they interfere with the center crossmember tubes. I’ll need to reinforce them later when fabbing new floorboards. The screwdriver is inserted in the frame’s captive nut/body bolt holes to keep everything aligned.
Can't wait to see how this turns out, keep up the great work.
I bobbed the rear frame horns just inside the body…
…then cut away the still-solid rear seat mount, floor & rear subrails, retaining as much stock metal as possible. Yes- that’s the original 1928 green paint.
I had to trim the body’s rear cross-brace to clear the frame horns & upper coilover mounts.
Then I fabbed new subrails: 14ga 1”x2” rectangle tubing sliced lengthwise, pie-cut, bent & welded to match the frame’s curvature…
…and a pair of vertical 16 ga. pieces that connect the new subrails to the existing body.
I welded everything together… and also attached some of the old subrails’ remnants to the new subrails for a more integrated look.
…then made some 16 ga. boxing plates for the body’s rear cross-brace and welded them in place.
Finally, I tacked one of the still-Ford-green transverse cross-brace to the new subrails near its original location. It’ll probably get moved later; depending on rear seat & gas tank location.
Thanks for looking!
Very nice work, looks strong!
Nice work! Looks like it's going to be a fine machine.
Any updates ?
Nice to see you're still plugging away on it, should be really cool when finished.
A little progress during this year’s Washington DC blizzard:
I cut c-notches in the body to clear the rear axle. Then cut 16 ga. sheetmetal strips, bent them around a pipe…
…and welded them between the outside of body and the subrails. Finally, I trimmed the excess and ground everything smooth.
Now the cutouts follow the frame rails’ curvature:
After bolting on the ladder bars; measuring and cross-checking, I tacked on lower coilover brackets. They’re extra-long for greater shock travel.
… then made some adjustable “coilover substitutes” from scrap metal and bolted ‘em in place. They’ll allow choosing just the right ride height so the tires are centered in the wheelwells.
I’ll get coilovers and a panhard bar with next month’s allowance.
Fixing a previous oversight took two Saturdays:
When assembling the engine several years ago, I cluelessly requested a transmission adapter with the starter on the driver’s side. That leaves very little room for headers, steering linkage and brakes.
Thankfully, Carl at Black Mountain Hemi, http://www.blackmountainhemi.com , saved my butt; offering to trade for an adapter with a passenger-side starter. I drove up to his shop in Lititz, PA, swapped parts and hung out for some absolutely primo bench-racing. Bolting it on gave me lottttts of space on the driver’s side; plus bonus points for the stock-appearing upward-oriented oil filter on the passenger side.
After consulting with OJ and a whole lot of eyeball engineering, I positioned the engine & tranny:
for 4-into-1 equal-length headers inside the pinched frame.
for a mechanical steel fan centered in the radiator.
to minimize under-frame clutter.
but not cartoonishly high or cause excessive driveshaft vibration.
Far enough back to allow a thick radiator inside the ’28 grille shell.
As parallel with the frame/body as possible--so the car doesn’t look broken in half.
I'd also sliced a small crescent out of the firewall flange so it clears the distributor by ~ 5/8”.
Then trimmed the P&J mounts to fit & tacked ‘em in place. Nice & simple, like a ‘60’s racecar chassis builder might’ve done.
I’m tacking in the trans mount now, but it looks just like every other 700R4 street rod trans mount.
I’ll take the frame back to OJ for some finish welding. Like Clint Eastwood, I know my limitations.
Mocked up with the grille shell, headlights, wheels & scoop… in my vast workshop.
I wonder if maybe the grille shell needs to be lowered about an inch????
Now that is a hotrod !
WOW!!! That mock up looks good. Real nice beast.
Good to see it coming together. You've made some good progress lately. Lookin' good.
A poster board hood will show you if you're at the right height. I had to make three attempts to get mine right. If shell is too high, the car looks bent at the firewall even without a hood.
Finally another update.
I scored a set of barely-used QA-1 adjustable coilovers off Craigslist and new #225 springs:
There are twelve body-to-frame fasteners:
OJ installed four caged nuts (2 per side) at the cowl, before boxing the frame.
I added eight more (4 per side) 3/8” grade 8 bolts & fender washers on each side, at the firewall and along the subrails. Will finish weld them later.
The front end is a combination of Henry Ford & P&J parts:
117 Harv inspired me to raise the bar-- sanding and peaking my dropped & drilled ’34 axle just a little more in preparation for chrome:
Thankfully, Jason Slover hooked me up with P&J’s last Borgeson Vega steering box, after Summit strung me along for four months:
Sparkly chrome P&J hairpins, perches, and a Posies “superlow” leaf spring, with ’40 “round-back” spindles at the ends.
The frame desperately needs to be c-notched for spring clearance and the spindle arms will need to be lowered to fit.
Looks great! Love the front axle, nice work.
Starting to come together, that axle is gonna look great after chrome too ! Jason has always been a big help to me, he's the real deal. Looks like you get a lot more done without me bending your ear ! What's next ?
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Thanks guys but honestly, the cumulative knowledge & enthusiasm on the HAMB is what got me this far.
Next step is to bend the spindles' steering arms, then assemble the rest of the steering.
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