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Introducing my Fuel Coupe-styled Tudor

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Just Gary, Sep 18, 2006.

  1. Phillips
    Joined: Oct 26, 2010
    Posts: 1,325

    Phillips
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Watching! Care to share tire and wheel sizes? Nice combination of height and width
     
  2. Kan Kustom
    Joined: Jul 20, 2009
    Posts: 2,667

    Kan Kustom
    Member

    Any more progress ?
     
  3. Looks good so far. Maybe we will meet up @ MOKAN. ;)
     
  4. I'm finishing the rear subrails & will post pictures this weekend.
    Thanks for your interest.:)
    Hey 'Beaner, it should move under it's own power this summer and be shiny next summer...
     
    kidcampbell71 likes this.
  5. I am kind of shooting for the same time frame. LOL My body is a little rougher then yours though. It would make a good pic, yours mine and @Roothawg , smooth a little rough and real rough. :D
     
    Roothawg likes this.
  6. sololobo
    Joined: Aug 23, 2006
    Posts: 8,172

    sololobo
    Member

    really a cool build, good luck and save some money for more rear tires, hot man hot
     
  7. I just finished mating the body & frame.

    At the firewall, the frame is heavily pinched so it’s narrower than the cowl “feet”. I removed the stock wood blocks &cut off the lower feet.

    IMAG0215.jpg

    Now the body rests on the upper feet.

    IMAG0695.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jan 10, 2016
    mgtstumpy and mad mikey like this.
  8. I trimmed the outter ends of the stock transverse floor braces so it rests directly on the frame there too…

    …then trimmed some of the wood floor’s flanges were they interfere with the center crossmember tubes. I’ll need to reinforce them later when fabbing new floorboards. The screwdriver is inserted in the frame’s captive nut/body bolt holes to keep everything aligned.
    IMAG0700_1.jpg
     
    mad mikey and D-Russ like this.
  9. Can't wait to see how this turns out, keep up the great work.
     
  10. I bobbed the rear frame horns just inside the body…

    …then cut away the still-solid rear seat mount, floor & rear subrails, retaining as much stock metal as possible. Yes- that’s the original 1928 green paint.

    IMAG0641.jpg

    I had to trim the body’s rear cross-brace to clear the frame horns & upper coilover mounts.
    IMAG0698.jpg
     
  11. Then I fabbed new subrails: 14ga 1”x2” rectangle tubing sliced lengthwise, pie-cut, bent & welded to match the frame’s curvature…

    IMAG0743_1.jpg

    …and a pair of vertical 16 ga. pieces that connect the new subrails to the existing body.

    IMAG0766_1.jpg

    I welded everything together… and also attached some of the old subrails’ remnants to the new subrails for a more integrated look.

    IMAG0772_1.jpg

    …then made some 16 ga. boxing plates for the body’s rear cross-brace and welded them in place.

    IMAG0779.jpg

    Finally, I tacked one of the still-Ford-green transverse cross-brace to the new subrails near its original location. It’ll probably get moved later; depending on rear seat & gas tank location.

    IMAG0785.jpg

    Thanks for looking!
     
    Last edited: Jan 10, 2016
  12. Very nice work, looks strong!
     
  13. 4thhorseman
    Joined: Feb 14, 2014
    Posts: 261

    4thhorseman
    Member
    from SW Desert

  14. Nice work! Looks like it's going to be a fine machine.
     
  15. Kan Kustom
    Joined: Jul 20, 2009
    Posts: 2,667

    Kan Kustom
    Member

  16. Nice to see you're still plugging away on it, should be really cool when finished.
     
  17. A little progress during this year’s Washington DC blizzard:

    I cut c-notches in the body to clear the rear axle. Then cut 16 ga. sheetmetal strips, bent them around a pipe…
    01 strips.jpg

    …and welded them between the outside of body and the subrails. Finally, I trimmed the excess and ground everything smooth.
    02 strips.jpg

    Now the cutouts follow the frame rails’ curvature:
    IMAG0830.jpg

    After bolting on the ladder bars; measuring and cross-checking, I tacked on lower coilover brackets. They’re extra-long for greater shock travel.

    … then made some adjustable “coilover substitutes” from scrap metal and bolted ‘em in place. They’ll allow choosing just the right ride height so the tires are centered in the wheelwells.

    I’ll get coilovers and a panhard bar with next month’s allowance.
    coilover brackets.jpg
     
  18. Fixing a previous oversight took two Saturdays:

    When assembling the engine several years ago, I cluelessly requested a transmission adapter with the starter on the driver’s side. That leaves very little room for headers, steering linkage and brakes.

    Thankfully, Carl at Black Mountain Hemi, http://www.blackmountainhemi.com , saved my butt; offering to trade for an adapter with a passenger-side starter. I drove up to his shop in Lititz, PA, swapped parts and hung out for some absolutely primo bench-racing. Bolting it on gave me lottttts of space on the driver’s side; plus bonus points for the stock-appearing upward-oriented oil filter on the passenger side. :)
    drivers side space.jpg
    After consulting with OJ and a whole lot of eyeball engineering, I positioned the engine & tranny:
    • High enough:
      • for 4-into-1 equal-length headers inside the pinched frame.
      • for a mechanical steel fan centered in the radiator.
      • to minimize under-frame clutter.
      • but not cartoonishly high or cause excessive driveshaft vibration.
    • Far enough back to allow a thick radiator inside the ’28 grille shell.
    • As parallel with the frame/body as possible--so the car doesn’t look broken in half.
    I'd also sliced a small crescent out of the firewall flange so it clears the distributor by ~ 5/8”.
    distributor crescent.jpg


    Then trimmed the P&J mounts to fit & tacked ‘em in place. Nice & simple, like a ‘60’s racecar chassis builder might’ve done. :cool:
    motor mounts.jpg

    I’m tacking in the trans mount now, but it looks just like every other 700R4 street rod trans mount. :rolleyes:
    I’ll take the frame back to OJ for some finish welding. Like Clint Eastwood, I know my limitations.

    Mocked up with the grille shell, headlights, wheels & scoop… in my vast workshop.
    I wonder if maybe the grille shell needs to be lowered about an inch????

    IMAG0921_1.jpg
     
  19. Cool...subscribed.
     
    Just Gary likes this.
  20. Kan Kustom
    Joined: Jul 20, 2009
    Posts: 2,667

    Kan Kustom
    Member

    Now that is a hotrod !
     
    Just Gary likes this.
  21. WOW!!! That mock up looks good. Real nice beast.:D:D
     
    Just Gary likes this.
  22. Dino 64
    Joined: Jul 13, 2012
    Posts: 1,967

    Dino 64
    Member
    from Virginia

    Good to see it coming together. You've made some good progress lately. Lookin' good.
     
    Just Gary likes this.
  23. Terry Buffum
    Joined: Mar 20, 2008
    Posts: 287

    Terry Buffum
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Oregon

    A poster board hood will show you if you're at the right height. I had to make three attempts to get mine right. If shell is too high, the car looks bent at the firewall even without a hood.
     
    Just Gary likes this.
  24. Finally another update.:rolleyes:

    I scored a set of barely-used QA-1 adjustable coilovers off Craigslist and new #225 springs:

    20160821_162557-1.jpg
    There are twelve body-to-frame fasteners:

    OJ installed four caged nuts (2 per side) at the cowl, before boxing the frame.
    I added eight more (4 per side) 3/8” grade 8 bolts & fender washers on each side, at the firewall and along the subrails. Will finish weld them later.
    body mount 02.jpg

    body mount 03.jpg

    body mount 04.jpg
     
    Last edited: Nov 19, 2016
    kidcampbell71 and mad mikey like this.
  25. The front end is a combination of Henry Ford & P&J parts:

    117 Harv inspired me to raise the bar-- sanding and peaking my dropped & drilled ’34 axle just a little more in preparation for chrome::cool:

    20161007_162151.jpg

    Thankfully, Jason Slover hooked me up with P&J’s last Borgeson Vega steering box, after Summit strung me along for four months:
    vega box 01.jpg

    Sparkly chrome P&J hairpins, perches, and a Posies “superlow” leaf spring, with ’40 “round-back” spindles at the ends.
    frontend 01.jpg

    The frame desperately needs to be c-notched for spring clearance and the spindle arms will need to be lowered to fit.
    frontend 05.jpg
     
    Last edited: Nov 19, 2016
  26. Looks great! Love the front axle, nice work.
     
    Just Gary likes this.
  27. Dino 64
    Joined: Jul 13, 2012
    Posts: 1,967

    Dino 64
    Member
    from Virginia

    Starting to come together, that axle is gonna look great after chrome too ! Jason has always been a big help to me, he's the real deal. Looks like you get a lot more done without me bending your ear ! What's next ?


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  28. Thanks guys but honestly, the cumulative knowledge & enthusiasm on the HAMB is what got me this far. :)

    Next step is to bend the spindles' steering arms, then assemble the rest of the steering.
     
    Dino64 likes this.

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