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Projects International KB 7" chop

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 55willys, Aug 29, 2015.

  1. 55willys
    Joined: Dec 7, 2012
    Posts: 1,604

    55willys
    Member

    Well after some careful measuring and calculating I will only have to shove the engine about a foot through the fire wall. I must change my nose plans. This calls for a longer hood. If I use the hood I have it can be lengthened by a foot and narrowed at the rear to fit the cowl again. The other option is to use a KB6 or larger truck grill and hood tops.

    After pulling the inspection covers off of the bell housing it looks like I can use a 1/2" thick plate on the back of the engine and redrill a flathead flywheel to bolt to the crank and use an 8BA adapters ring off of a truck to go to my aluminum adapter for the T5 trans that I have. The only issue I can see with that is starter to oil pan clearance.
     
    Last edited: Dec 13, 2015
  2. 55willys
    Joined: Dec 7, 2012
    Posts: 1,604

    55willys
    Member

    I fired the engine up again today after getting more gas. I ran it for a couple minutes and it ran great except for the lack of a good accelerator pump. I am glad I went and got it last weekend because they closed the pass for a while this weekend, something to do with 4 feet of snow. I have made the decision to use the engine and transmission just the way it is. I will need to trim the fire wall a bit to clear the valve cover and bell housing. I also won't be able to use the traditional cross steer and tie rod because it will interfere with the engine fitting the space.

    So for the steering I am going to use my Fordson tractor dual arm set up with two drag links and no tie rod. I will run an extension shaft to the right side and have a support bushing for it. The Ackerman will be taken care of by angling the pitman arms toward the rear a bit while angling the front steering loops toward the front. The column shaft is a bit short so it will have to attach about a 6" extension. I figured since it needed to be extended I might as well use a u-joint to do it and make a tilt column out of it with a slide lock mechanism.

    I uploaded a video of the engine running on youtube and here is a link to it.
     
  3. 55willys
    Joined: Dec 7, 2012
    Posts: 1,604

    55willys
    Member

    I have made the decision to not use the international engine because of its size and not being able to fit it under the hood heigth wise or length wise.
     
    Last edited: Jan 25, 2016
  4. whtbaron
    Joined: Sep 12, 2012
    Posts: 570

    whtbaron
    Member
    from manitoba

    Too bad.... I've run a couple of those in old trucks and was looking forward to the build. I don't see a lot of variation in 6 cyl lengths, although you could save some weight in the trans/bellhousing with some of the more popular engines. Unless you go to a 4cyl or a V8 you will have similar issues.
     
  5. 55willys
    Joined: Dec 7, 2012
    Posts: 1,604

    55willys
    Member

    Took the weekend off from doing side jobs so I could work on the hot rod. I backed the utility trailer up to the back of my storage truck and used the engine hoist to pick the engine out stand and all. I backed it up to the shop and unloaded it sorry no pics. I decided to set it in the front of the cab and test to se if the frame would work with it.
    IMG_20160124_133454317_HDR.jpg
    IMG_20160124_133505640_HDR.jpg It worked so I decided to put the cab on the frame table. After walking it over to the frame table I leaned the bottom against it and used the engine hoist to lift it up so I could slide it on. IMG_20160124_155531751.jpg
    IMG_20160124_160235317_HDR.jpg
    IMG_20160124_172707147_HDR.jpg
     
  6. 55willys
    Joined: Dec 7, 2012
    Posts: 1,604

    55willys
    Member

    The advantage of the AMC 258 over the International BD269 is that it is 6" shorter in length and 9" shorter in height. The friend who I got the engine from about 3 years ago tracked down a flywheel, clutch, pressure plate, and bell housing with a clutch fork. I snagged one of my old 3 speed Ford transmissions out of a frame that had been sitting at my dads house for about 20+ years (since I scrapped the truck). The trans bolted right up to the AMC bell housing. The plan is to use a 46-48 Mercury steering column with the column shifter. I will build my own shift rods. My AMC friend is also giving me a cross member and motor mounts to install it into my frame. I will be picking those up tomorrow.
     
    kidcampbell71 likes this.
  7. Damn Jim. I've owned a Jeep O/T since 19 years of age. It's first incarnation would chirp the 31's in 2nd and 3rd until I found the 5 speed weak link. I've long ago fell into SBC power since. As a matter of fact, wiring that same Jeep's tub is what brought me here as a lurker somewhere around '05 ..... some long lost Model T tub tech post of the past. Besides the point ... a 258 will move your vehicle along very well.

    With the later 258 bell housing you can put a Mustang T-5 behind that. Clifford intake, hotter cam, and a 390 or better cfm carburetor is fun. 200 250 hp easy. Also can build a stroked version on a budget with the 258 crank, and 4.0 rods .... if you find a cheap 4.0 to tear down. Maybe when you blow it up ? 305 Chevrolet pistons can give you near 10:1 compression. Believe it or not, there are some yahoos building these with 14:1 compression ratios. Beyond the scope of the word "WoW !!".

    Check out the AMC forums sometime. Those guys are pretty crafty. 300-350 hp plus and then some. Those are very resilient engines. Tons of available speed parts.
     
    55willys likes this.
  8. 55willys
    Joined: Dec 7, 2012
    Posts: 1,604

    55willys
    Member

    Thanks kidcampbell71, I have a 4.0 sitting around for that reason and also put a 2005 4.0 in my 55 Willys wagon (that is where my screen name comes from). I have always liked 6 cylinder power and have had a lot of Ford and GM 6's. The 258 was supposed to go in my Willys wagon but then I ended up with a 35,000 mile 4.0 takeout when I did an LS swap in his Wrangler so the 258 has been patiently waiting to be used.

    I have an Eaton supercharger that might find its way into the project later down the road. My birthday dead line is fast approaching so I want to have it running for that. I also have a trip to Bonneville planned for August so it really needs to be finished for that. I might also be getting a 55 Ford 3 speed overdrive trans for it this week.
     
    kidcampbell71 likes this.
  9. 55willys
    Joined: Dec 7, 2012
    Posts: 1,604

    55willys
    Member

    Tonight after work I picked up motor mounts and a cross member from a Pacer. The cross member ended up flush with the bottom of the frame and offset the engine 1-1/2" to the passenger side. The Ford truck trans cross member ends up flush with the bottom of the frame and is also offset 1-1/2" to the passenger side. Since I am building an 8" independent rear the diff will be centered causing the pinion to be offset by......... Wait for it......... 1-1/2"
     
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  10. silversink
    Joined: May 3, 2008
    Posts: 913

    silversink
    Member

    Did you ever find a grill?
     
  11. 55willys
    Joined: Dec 7, 2012
    Posts: 1,604

    55willys
    Member

    Not yet, I have been concentrating on the running gear.
     
  12. 55willys
    Joined: Dec 7, 2012
    Posts: 1,604

    55willys
    Member

    The main things I need body wise are grill, windshield frame and hinges, wiper motor covers, and door hole covers. The windshield frame is the most important.
     
  13. silversink
    Joined: May 3, 2008
    Posts: 913

    silversink
    Member

    when you get ready I have two-----one real good one and one that would be good to modify, they both are off of a 47 so they have the holes for the stainless bars, I also have those if you need them along with lots of other parts for a KB1
     
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  14. 55willys
    Joined: Dec 7, 2012
    Posts: 1,604

    55willys
    Member

    Thanks silversink, I will make up a list and PM you.
     
  15. ClarkH
    Joined: Jul 21, 2010
    Posts: 907

    ClarkH
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Hey, Jim, I finally ran accross this thread. What a fantastic project! Look forward to more.
     
  16. whtbaron
    Joined: Sep 12, 2012
    Posts: 570

    whtbaron
    Member
    from manitoba

    If he doesn't take the stainless and it will fit a 48, I might be interested as well. Drop me a line if you end up with extras you don't need.
     
  17. 55willys
    Joined: Dec 7, 2012
    Posts: 1,604

    55willys
    Member

    I have been extremely busy with work, side work and product design and manufacturing for my business. I went to the PIR swap meet in Portland yesterday and picked up a grill and windshield frame from silversink. The cross member and motor mounts fit but the ends of the cross member kicked up and would have needed to be modified to the point that it was easier to build a new one. I also bought new motor mounts because the old ones were a bit distorted and I didn't want to build to them.

    There won't be pictures for a while as my phone got destroyed and the one I am using temporarily doesn't take good ones. I have a good deal going with Mechanical Specialties http://www.mechspecialties.com/ for water jetting parts so I will design the motor mount towers and have them jet out. I might have my 66 Ford crew cab truck sold so that will give the project a cash infusion. Cash will get the rear end going at Jantz Engineering http://www.jantz4x4.com/jantz.php?p=home I ordered lug studs from Mac's so that I can get to the rotor adaptation to the wide five front hubs. This adapter for disc brakes to wide five hubs will become one of the products available from Highway 101 Rod and Custom. I am killing two birds with one stone by doing product development on the hot rod.
     
    kidcampbell71 likes this.
  18. 1435
    Joined: Apr 10, 2016
    Posts: 2

    1435

    Are you looking to sell the BD269 if you're not going to use it in your project?
     
  19. Barn Find
    Joined: Feb 2, 2013
    Posts: 2,320

    Barn Find
    Member
    from Missouri

    When I first started reading, I thought you were making unnecessary work shaving the roof, or you should start with a cab that you don't think is fat and ugly. But after seeing the chop, it looks great and makes sense now.

    It's gonna be way better with the hood on than without.

    Sorry the IH motor didn't work out, but glad to see your moving on with six in a row.
     
    55willys likes this.
  20. 55willys
    Joined: Dec 7, 2012
    Posts: 1,604

    55willys
    Member

    I need to sell the BD269 so I don't start another project with it.
     
  21. 55willys
    Joined: Dec 7, 2012
    Posts: 1,604

    55willys
    Member

    I got the wide five disc brake adapters machined and temporarily attached to the front hubs so that I can start on the caliper bracket. I have a couple choices for calipers. I could use the GM metric or 93-97 T-bird. The GM calipers have a 63.5 mm bore and the T-bird has 66 mm bore; I prefer the larger bore. I will just have to see what it takes to build a caliper bracket.

    I also designed the bearing ends and retainers for the independent rear center section. The bearing retainers will also be the caliper brackets. I am thinking about changing out the single lower control rod on the Corvair independent for a double set up that can control the toe on the rear instead of the trailing arm doing it. Jag rears use a 4 point lower control arm as does the Lincoln Mark VIII/ T-bird.
     
  22. 55willys
    Joined: Dec 7, 2012
    Posts: 1,604

    55willys
    Member

    Sorry about not posting anything for a while. New job, Bonneville, Mojave Magnum, divorce, etc. has taken a lot of time. I will be picking up the custom rear end from the machine shop this weekend and then I can start building the rear suspension. I will post pictures as I make progress.
     
    kidcampbell71 likes this.
  23. 55willys
    Joined: Dec 7, 2012
    Posts: 1,604

    55willys
    Member

    I removed the cab and took the frame out from around the engine. I set the frame up and ran a string line down the center of the frame. As I suspected the rear cross member was not square with the frame and the right side frame rail is 1/4" inboard at the transition. I have not finish welded everything because I wanted to double check. The fix will be to cut the transition and reweld and cut the tacks on the rear cross member and move it before rewelding. I will have my welder back at my house and should be able to remedy the situation this week.
     
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  24. 55willys
    Joined: Dec 7, 2012
    Posts: 1,604

    55willys
    Member

    Got the frame squared up and welded last night. Everything is in line now. Had to cut the right side rail loose from the front tapered section. I welded the left side and the front cross member to the frame table and forced the right side over 1/4". I then welded the engine cross member onto place to hold the frame at the right width. Then I reattached right frame rail and rear cross member moving the left side of it back 1/4" to square it with the frame and center line. After welding everything I noticed that the shop was quite smoke filled so I gave up for the night at about 10:45.
     
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  25. 55willys
    Joined: Dec 7, 2012
    Posts: 1,604

    55willys
    Member

    Did some mindless therapeutic grinding on the frame tonight. Last week a friend came over to have me weld the dump box pivots to the bed on his 61 Dodge D300 SRW truck so I put him to work cleaning an organizing the shop. I have not done this since I moved in so it was a total disaster.

    I am done welding the main frame together so I am going to deliver the frame table back to it's owner and reclaim some shop space. I have a small frame table that will work to finish the rest of the welding and it is easier to set the engine with it as well. I have been focusing on parts and kit manufacturing for my business along with launching my website. You can find links to the website, my dealers store for the wide five adapters and ebay to all the EZ-Fill remote reservoir kits.
     
    Last edited: Dec 1, 2016
    ClarkH and The37Kid like this.
  26. 55willys
    Joined: Dec 7, 2012
    Posts: 1,604

    55willys
    Member

    I am taking a class in fused glass tomorrow. The reason for this is to make a fused glass rear window that has my business logo in it. after the glass is fused I want to laminate it with the proper plastic in between the fused glass and the inside sheet of glass. IMG_20160207_120213101.jpg
     
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  27. '51 Norm
    Joined: Dec 6, 2010
    Posts: 691

    '51 Norm
    Member
    from colorado

    I'm interested in seeing how the laminating turns out. My attempts have all resulted in bubbles between the glass so any helpful tips would be appreciated.
     
  28. bengeltiger
    Joined: Mar 3, 2012
    Posts: 469

    bengeltiger
    Member

    Your glass plans sound cool. Looking forward to seeing the results.
     
  29. 55willys
    Joined: Dec 7, 2012
    Posts: 1,604

    55willys
    Member

    After learning more about glass and fusing it, I might have to re think what I had planned. When glass is taken to @ 1450 degrees to do a full fuse the glass wants to be 1/4" thick and it will do whatever it takes to get there. If it is an 1/8" thick it will shrink the outside dimensions to add to the thickness. The only way to get it thicker is to build a dam around it to contain it.

    So the next step is to talk to the place next to the glass studio that does laser etching. I will see if they can etch half way through an 1/8" pane and then fill the trough with black glass frit (powdered glass) and then only do a partial fuse to make it flow out without disrupting the main pane. After that I will try to make safety glass out of it. I will probably have to do some trial runs at both the fusing and laminating.
     
    bengeltiger likes this.
  30. 55willys
    Joined: Dec 7, 2012
    Posts: 1,604

    55willys
    Member

    Well it looks like the glass thing has taken on a new direct. The place next door to the glass place has the ability to fuse a product to safely glass with a laser. I am going to take some test pieces of safety glass soon for testing of the process to see if it will work. They also have a complete machine shop and CAD to design and build some of my parts. It is a family owned business that has been in business for over 100 year's. They make high quality tripods for use with camera work and other things. Vintage looking with wooden legs built with modern technology but keeping the traditional look and function.
     

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