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Projects International KB 7" chop

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 55willys, Aug 29, 2015.

  1. 55willys
    Joined: Dec 7, 2012
    Posts: 1,672

    55willys
    Member

    I just got a 41-49 K or KB International cab and hoods from a friend. I decided to chop it a total of 7". 4" at the door window opening and 3" above the door. The before picture shows how fat the roof looks and by observing other chops of these trucks I wanted to get rid of the fat as it looks fatter when the windows get smaller.

    This chop is a bit more difficult than some because it has an inner structure skin that needs to be dealt with. This is my first chop and I like a challenge so here go's. I removed the rear window opening and the inner skin. Next up I removed the outer skin by cutting right above the windshield and 3" above the doors to let the top drop and down to the belt line removing the skin in one piece.
    IMG_20150620_221352293.jpg IMG_20150705_201752520_HDR.jpg IMG_20150705_194912227_HDR.jpg IMG_20150705_201741091_HDR.jpg IMG_20150705_204533966.jpg IMG_20150705_204550143.jpg
     
  2. 55willys
    Joined: Dec 7, 2012
    Posts: 1,672

    55willys
    Member

    Most chops I have seen on these trucks end up with oval side windows and a fat roof. Both of which will be addressed in this chop. Most chops start with lowering the lid and then making the doors fit, I will do the opposite. After removing the roof and x bracing the cab I cut 4" out of the door tops at the rear and cut the front in the middle of the transition at the front of the door top. I then tacked the rear potion of the door top back on being sure to line up the window channel area.

    The next step was to remove the windshield and dash as a unit. I then cut the door post at the transition at the lower corner where it would be leaned back. This took careful planning to make it flow with where the windshield would be leaned back. I cut the top of the door opening at the front where there was a seam and at the back where it met the belt line and then fit it to the door top. IMG_20150706_204312974.jpg IMG_20150706_212212771.jpg IMG_20150707_205747421_HDR.jpg
     
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  3. 55willys
    Joined: Dec 7, 2012
    Posts: 1,672

    55willys
    Member

    I then fit the wind shield and door post to get the slope right and figure how much to take out of the windshield height. I tacked it all back together making sure to line up the door window channel because glass does not bend or twist. When the doorpost leaned back it got wider at the top because the doors taper out at the rear. With the windshield tacked in place it became apparent that it needed to be wider at the top.

    At this point I cut the wind shield top off inside the windshield post and cut 2" out of it. I then cut the lower corners and pulled them out a bit to line up with the door tops so the doors will seal. From the front it looked like the windshield was peaked up too much in the middle so I cut it and lowered it about 5/8" causing the sides to be wider and lining the posts back up. IMG_20150707_205836874_HDR.jpg IMG_20150707_212544348.jpg IMG_20150708_211404731.jpg IMG_20150712_204530714_HDR.jpg
     
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  4. 55willys
    Joined: Dec 7, 2012
    Posts: 1,672

    55willys
    Member

    After getting the windshield and door posts to fit it was on to fitting the roof skin. I cut 7" off of the bottom and about 2 1/2" off above the windshield. I had to cut out the back corners of the roof so that the sides were free to flair out and meet the 3" pieces I left above the door openings that were bent in to meet the roof skin. I used clecos to hold these together while I tacked the front edged of the roof and the back down by the belt line.

    After it was held in place I removed one cleco at a time and cut the roof to match the sides and tacked it as I went. Then I had to install the cab corners and move them out 1" adding a filler strip. IMG_20150708_211918477.jpg IMG_20150708_211927330.jpg IMG_20150714_213919299.jpg IMG_20150725_205455895_HDR.jpg IMG_20150725_205455895_HDR.jpg IMG_20150805_062309984_HDR.jpg IMG_20150714_213919299.jpg
     

  5. lonestar395
    Joined: Dec 25, 2011
    Posts: 202

    lonestar395
    Member
    from Australia

    You got my interest...I'll tag along.
     
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  6. volvobrynk
    Joined: Jan 30, 2011
    Posts: 3,587

    volvobrynk
    Member
    from Denmark

    Nice truck, looking good! I'm in too.
    Will it have a bed when done, or more like a bucket from a T bucket?
     
  7. Hnstray
    Joined: Aug 23, 2009
    Posts: 12,246

    Hnstray
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Quincy, IL

    Nice work! The contours look really good and quite an improvement over stock with the upper roof being reduced in height.

    Ray
     
    cgc1958 and volvobrynk like this.
  8. ...you have a good eye for proportions, very nice work there.
     
    51 BIRD likes this.
  9. Following this,nice work.
     
  10. 55willys
    Joined: Dec 7, 2012
    Posts: 1,672

    55willys
    Member

    I am building an independent rear suspension using an 8" Ford center section, 65 Corvair rear independent suspension and a model T rear spring and cross member. It will have inboard disc brakes off of the rear of a Ford Contour and I will use a pair of my wide five adapters and covers that I sell to showcase my product. I am thinking about not running a bed just to show of the rear end but I might put something back there. It will tell me what it wants when I get to that point.

    Thanks for the complements on the roof proportions, that is why it is outside so I could stand back across the parking area and look at it. Now that I have the shape that I am looking for (and we finally got some much needed rain) it is time to move it inside and start on the frame. The frame will be 2"x3"x1/4" wall box tube so that I can keep it low without channeling the cab. I will use a stock model A front axle with 37 spindles and wide five front hubs with the disc brake adapters that are close to being in production.

    For power the plan is to use an AMC 258 6 cylinder engine coupled to a Ford T5 trans. I plan on using an Eaton blower and building my own intake and exhaust manifolds. The exhaust will exit straight out the side of the hood with 6 individual pipes with butterfly valves to open them up when I want straight pipes. The front 3 and back 3 will each be tied together with a pipe that is inside the butterflies and will exit via 2 mufflers under the truck for that sweet split manifold sound that a 6 makes.
     
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  11. 55willys
    Joined: Dec 7, 2012
    Posts: 1,672

    55willys
    Member

    Here are some pics of the back of the cab and the corners IMG_20150725_205531297_HDR.jpg IMG_20150805_205618328.jpg IMG_20150805_205624210.jpg IMG_20150805_205645590.jpg IMG_20150805_205658441.jpg IMG_20150807_091734922.jpg
     
  12. 55willys
    Joined: Dec 7, 2012
    Posts: 1,672

    55willys
    Member

    Some more pics IMG_20150808_093737815.jpg IMG_20150808_093755414.jpg IMG_20150808_093803019.jpg IMG_20150808_093817199.jpg
     
    juan motime, vtx1800, brEad and 3 others like this.
  13. 55willys
    Joined: Dec 7, 2012
    Posts: 1,672

    55willys
    Member

    Got a little inspiration at Gray Harbor Raceway a couple weeks ago. The winner of the main event of the Big Rig races was an International KB6. Sorry about the pics they were taken through the catch fence. IMG_20150815_221716527.jpg IMG_20150815_221716527.jpg IMG_20150815_221805743.jpg IMG_20150815_221807764.jpg
     
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  14. Hdonlybob
    Joined: Feb 1, 2005
    Posts: 3,974

    Hdonlybob
    Member

    Nice job ! Keep us in pics...
     
  15. Terraizer
    Joined: Jul 18, 2006
    Posts: 514

    Terraizer
    Member

    Very Nice Keep up the great work.
     
  16. rusty rocket
    Joined: Oct 30, 2011
    Posts: 4,422

    rusty rocket
    Member

    Are you keeping the patina on it? I was always told to work on clean metal.
     
  17. volvobrynk
    Joined: Jan 30, 2011
    Posts: 3,587

    volvobrynk
    Member
    from Denmark

    After looking at the truck in your pictures from the track.

    That would look good with a chopped top and a dually rear, running full front sheat metal!
    And a longer wheelbase then your mock up. And orange running lights and rear down bats in the bed!
     
  18. 55willys
    Joined: Dec 7, 2012
    Posts: 1,672

    55willys
    Member

    For right now it is just tacked together using a flux core wire feed. I will clean the weld areas and tig weld it later. Not sure on the patina but in the end I might put a nice paint job on it.
     
  19. Wow,...I really like your ideas on the chop and the drivetrain,..this will be such a cool piece when done, painted or not. ... what brand flux-core welder are you using?
     
  20. 55willys
    Joined: Dec 7, 2012
    Posts: 1,672

    55willys
    Member

    It is a Miller 110v wire feed welder already for gas but just using .030 or .035 flux core wire. Basically it is like stick welding with a wire feed. It works for tacking but I wouldn't want to finish weld sheet metal with it.
     
  21. 55willys
    Joined: Dec 7, 2012
    Posts: 1,672

    55willys
    Member

    I was doing some research this weekend and found that 87-88 Tbird turbo coupe had disc brakes on the rear with the 4x4.25bolt circle same as Mustang II 8"rear that I am using. So I am going to get a pair and see if they will slip over the axle flange. I was going to use Ford Escort rotors on it but would have had to turn down the axle flange and the center as well. So if this works out it will also fit Mustang II, Pinto, Bobcat, Fairmont, Tbird, and other Fords that use the 4x4.25, It unfortunately will not fit Falcon, Mustang, Comet, or other early Fords with the 4x4.5 lug pattern.

    The plan is to narrow the Mustang II rear end as much as possible, install 87-88 Tbird turbo coupe disc brakes. bolt on an adapter to go from the 4lug pattern to the 4 bolt pattern that a truck has to bolt on the back of a 4 speed. This u-joint yoke will attach to the half shaft of the 65 Corvair independent rear suspension. I have removed the drums and backing plates from the Corvair rear and will use my 5x4.75 to wide five adapters and adapter covers like the ones in my avatar. This will give me an 8" inboard disc brake independent rear with wide five wheels. What more could I ask for?
     
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  22. Martin Harris
    Joined: Aug 3, 2014
    Posts: 323

    Martin Harris

    Watching this one. Dare To Be Different.....just the way I like it!
    Nice chop too.
     
  23. jazz1
    Joined: Apr 30, 2011
    Posts: 1,500

    jazz1
    Member

    I could not figure out how to do the chop you have done.. I had seen some similar,, just could not see the geometry and figured I would just screw it up! . Thanks for the pictures, they really speak volumes! I ended up doing a simple 3" slice out of the pillars and a 3" slice below window.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
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  24. Degenerate
    Joined: Aug 5, 2007
    Posts: 239

    Degenerate
    Member
    from Indiana

    Nice chop. I wanted to chop my '41 but my son has hit 6'5" and is still growing. I've already lowered the seat for him so a chop isn't in the future. Love seeing another Int'l project on here. They're kind of the unloved children of the P.U. world.
     
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  25. 55willys
    Joined: Dec 7, 2012
    Posts: 1,672

    55willys
    Member

    Yep it got quite involved including removing the dash along with the windshield. Since you cut and stretched the roof anyway you could pancake it a couple to three inches and get rid of the fat top look. If you cut it up about 3" above the door you can take out 1 1/2"-2" above the windshield. Cut out the rear cab corners so you can spread the roof. Its only sheet metal what could go wrong?
     
  26. ... looks good Jim. Am having tummy issues waiting on the rear window outcome. Hope I don't scarf my shorts. :) Figure that part will flow eventually as well. (pun intended) Right ?

    Yeah I know you aren't done. Just messin' with 'ya.
     
    Last edited: Aug 31, 2015
  27. 55willys
    Joined: Dec 7, 2012
    Posts: 1,672

    55willys
    Member

    Going to chop the rear window opening 1 1/2" and make it line up with the side windows for height.
     
  28. I knew it !! :) Can't wait.
     
  29. 55willys
    Joined: Dec 7, 2012
    Posts: 1,672

    55willys
    Member

    Some of the inspiration for this comes from the pictures of salt flat cars, models I chopped and hacked as a kid, the Pierson coupe, and the head of a pterodactyl. I might just call it the pterodactyl although I have never been known to name a car.
     
  30. Flattening the roof really helped, good vision and execution to do that. I like the unconventional AMC six engine choice. Making the rear window about the same height and equal level with respect tot he side windows works good on the chop. I did effectively the same on my COE chop, 4 inches chop but left the rear window stock height and lowered it 2 inches in back and then the remaining 2 inches above. Came out approx the same height as the side windows when it was done and looks proportional now.
     

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