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Technical Internal Rust on Master Clyinder

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by HuskerNation, May 4, 2020.

  1. HuskerNation
    Joined: Dec 28, 2010
    Posts: 229

    HuskerNation
    Member
    from Montana

    I took off my original 1937 Hudson’s cast iron master cylinder to rebuild it as part of the brake restoration. I have a lot of rust on the INSIDE of the reservoir and would love to hear what’s worked for other people to remove rust here?

    IMG_0837.JPG


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  2. jaracer
    Joined: Oct 4, 2008
    Posts: 325

    jaracer
    Member

    You would be surprised what an overnight soak in white vinegar will do.
     
    rbrewer likes this.
  3. evintho
    Joined: May 28, 2007
    Posts: 1,422

    evintho
    Member

    Or feed grade molasses.
     
  4. roger didonato
    Joined: Aug 24, 2016
    Posts: 127

    roger didonato

    Feed grade molasses 7parts water, 1part molasses
     
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  5. junkers72
    Joined: Sep 21, 2014
    Posts: 44

    junkers72

    I just pulled a really crusty master cylinder from my ‘47 DeSoto. Just so happen to have a gallon of Evapo-rust from Harb’r Fr8. I’ll soak it til tomorrow and report back. IMG_8933.JPG


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  6. junkers72
    Joined: Sep 21, 2014
    Posts: 44

    junkers72

    IMG_8934.JPG
    Says “ preclean item if it’s oily. Rinse item and completely immerse for 1-12 hours depending on the depth and age of rust. Check progress periodically. Once rust is removed, rinse item with water. “
    We’ll see if this is a good option.
     
  7. Jmountainjr
    Joined: Dec 29, 2006
    Posts: 1,103

    Jmountainjr
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Go to the hardware store and get a gallon jug of white vinegar. Super cheap. It works well and not that aggressive. Might that 1 to 3 days depending on how rusty it is. On most stuff just a water rinse works when done. If want to be cautious rinse in water and baking soda. And not harmful to dispose.
     
    rbrewer likes this.
  8. Pats55
    Joined: Apr 29, 2013
    Posts: 364

    Pats55
    Member
    from NJ

    IMG-0805rust remover - Copy.JPG IMG-0805rust remover - Copy.JPG This was done in 25 minutes. Notice to the right where I spilled it. If you're not on a budget this is the fastest way to go. It leaves a zinc phosphate film to inhibit further rusting and promote paint adhesion. This is also good for dumping down welded seems like wheel arches and roof drip rails..
     
    kidcampbell71 likes this.
  9. Jagman
    Joined: Mar 25, 2010
    Posts: 346

    Jagman
    Member

    What percentage white vinegar do you use? I see it all the way from 5 to 45% and priced accordingly from $3 a gallon to $30
     
  10. bill gruendeman
    Joined: Jun 18, 2019
    Posts: 305

    bill gruendeman
    Member

    All the above will work evaporate rust is the fastest than molasses (7 to 1 with water) the slowest is vinegar(full strength). I like vinegar best, I use white vinegar ( I don’t know percentages) about 3$ a gallon.after the soak( a few days to a week) you need to use a brush in th m/c and the will fall out.
     
  11. Budget36
    Joined: Nov 29, 2014
    Posts: 3,462

    Budget36
    Member

    There's that thread on using Citric Acid as well.
     
    klleetrucking likes this.
  12. brading
    Joined: Sep 9, 2019
    Posts: 156

    brading
    Member

  13. Jmountainjr
    Joined: Dec 29, 2006
    Posts: 1,103

    Jmountainjr
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I just buy the 5% white vinegar at the grocery or hardware store and use it straight. About $2.50 a gallon.
     
    Last edited: May 4, 2020
    kidcampbell71 likes this.
  14. Careful with the acids....they will attack the machined surfaces on cast iron parts if left to soak too long(days). I ruined a cylinder head that way...
     
  15. Pats55
    Joined: Apr 29, 2013
    Posts: 364

    Pats55
    Member
    from NJ

    Muriatic acid will dissolve things really quick. I'm thinking tomato sauce my wife makes it real shitty tomato sauce a lot of acid. I got try it out.
     
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  16. I'm an Evaporust fan. It's not as toxic as some of the other items we use.
     
    triumph 1 likes this.
  17. Torana68
    Joined: Jan 28, 2008
    Posts: 1,150

    Torana68
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Australia

    Good chance the bore is stuffed, if you’ve got rust in the reservoir your going to have pitting in the bore, inspect closely before you spend $$ on it.
     
    RICH B likes this.
  18. guitarguy
    Joined: May 26, 2008
    Posts: 342

    guitarguy
    Member

    So what is it? Why is the name crossed out?
     
  19. Pats55
    Joined: Apr 29, 2013
    Posts: 364

    Pats55
    Member
    from NJ

    I cross that out because I didn't want to run an advertisement. I developed this metal prep rust remover because I wanted something fast. I'm from God damn New Jersey and were not known for hanging waiting all day for something to work. There are a couple of good preps like POR 15, Eastwood, and my favorite Master coat.

    I don't really care how people get rust off the car, I worry about it coming back.
     
    williebill likes this.
  20. junkers72
    Joined: Sep 21, 2014
    Posts: 44

    junkers72

    IMG_8936.JPG IMG_8940.JPG
    Pulled out of bucket , rinsed with hot water, and dried with blow gun. No real work involved. I am in no way affiliated with this product. I got it to clean up some crusty knick knacks.


    Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
     
    Ford52PU likes this.
  21. Vimtage Iron
    Joined: Feb 28, 2010
    Posts: 532

    Vimtage Iron
    Member

    Here is my 2 cents on master and wheel cylinders, unless you can by NOS, buying a replacement from the parts house or repop joints I have been finding lately are junk, the threaded fittings are not made correct and the fittings bottom out before they seal so now you have leaks, the taper is not made correct and they are just shit parts, I've been sending cylinders out and having them stainless sleeved, masters about 100, cylinders about 80 to 90,and Ford step 95, the wheel cylinders you buy today come with metric bleeder screws and the Mopars with the bolt down top have metric bolts that just frys my ass.
     
    rbrewer, Truck64, Pats55 and 2 others like this.
  22. woodiewagon46
    Joined: Mar 14, 2013
    Posts: 1,645

    woodiewagon46
    Member
    from New York

    Brake fluid is hygroscopic and will attract water, so it's a good thing to flush your brake system every so often.
     
    Truck64 likes this.
  23. Hellfish
    Joined: Jun 19, 2002
    Posts: 6,438

    Hellfish
    Member

    I've used vinegar, EvapoRust and electrolysis. Vinegar is the cheapest by far, easier to set up than electrolysis and just as fast as EvapoRust. It's even faster if you take the part out and scrub it with a wire brush every now and then. Usually the part is clean in a few hours or less. Vinegar is environmentally friendly, you can get it at any grocery store and you can use what's left in the bottle for cooking.
     

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