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Projects Info needed on a 47/48 Chevy Coupe

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by chstitans42, Nov 10, 2017.

  1. chstitans42
    Joined: Feb 7, 2011
    Posts: 715

    chstitans42
    Member
    from Anna, TX

    I'm interested in buying this late 40s chevy, but don't know much about them. All I know is that it is a 47 or 48 Chevy. Is it s stylemaster, fleetmaster, or fleetline? Would this be considered a sport coupe? It has no title, and hasn't been run in decades, what would you consider a good price for it? Sorry, 3 pics is all I have at this moment.

    00000_cxl9d23QR40_1200x900.jpg
    00L0L_BlbVnAJZpJ_1200x900.jpg
    00808_edwu9Mo6ivB_1200x900.jpg
     
    kiwijeff likes this.
  2. bobd1976
    Joined: Sep 24, 2010
    Posts: 50

    bobd1976
    Member
    from Illinois

    Sorry to say but not worth much. No title, trim and grill missing and sunk into the ground like that the frame may be in bad shape.
    It is not a Fleetline .
     
  3. 49ratfink
    Joined: Feb 8, 2004
    Posts: 18,026

    49ratfink
    Member
    from California

    probably a "Stylemaster" as "Fleetmaster" has trim above the side windows, among other things. they called them Club Coupes, unless it is has no back seat, then it is a Stylemaster Buisness coupe
     
  4. mgtstumpy
    Joined: Jul 20, 2006
    Posts: 8,621

    mgtstumpy
    Member

    http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/models/cowl.htm
    upload_2017-11-11_9-0-51.gif
    Just swap 42 for 46, 47 or 48 for YOM on body plate to determine..

    All Fisher Body styles are identified by a Body Number Plate as illustrated below. This Plate which is the sole means of correctly identifying the body should never be destroyed or mutilated. If, in the installation of heaters or other accessories, it becomes necessary to remove the Body Number Plate, it should be reinstalled as close as possible to its original position.

    [​IMG]
    Using the plate above as an example:

    STYLE NO. 46-1007: Is a combination body style number. "46" represents the year 1946. "10" indicates the GM car division (Chevrolet) for whom the body was made and "07" the actual style (model) of the body. Thus Style No. 46-1007 on the typical identification plate above may be interpreted as a 1946 Chevrolet Fleetline Series Aerosedan.

    BODY NO. F 3949: Is the sequence or production rotation in which the body was made. The prefix "F" represents the plant in which it was made. (See Assembly Plant Codes Below)

    TRIM NO. 132: Is the combination number of the trim used in the body. As shown on the identification plate the Trim No. "132" indicates a combination of plain and tan striped cloth.

    PAINT NO. 336: Is the paint or color combination used on the body. The Paint No. 336 as shown on the above plate indicates the body is painted Mayland Black.
    • BH (Special De Luxe) or BG (Master De Luxe) for 1942;
    • DK (Fleetmaster / Fleetline) or DJ (Stylemaster) for 1946;
    • EK (Fleetmaster / Fleetline) or EJ (Stylemaster) for 1947; and
    • FK (Fleetmaster / Fleetline) or FJ (Stylemaster) for 1948
    upload_2017-11-11_9-2-15.png

    upload_2017-11-11_9-5-17.png

    upload_2017-11-11_9-19-58.png

    upload_2017-11-11_9-17-33.png
    upload_2017-11-11_9-18-31.png

    47 and 48 are similar however 48 had a vertical bar in centre of grill.

    Given that there is no grill it's hard to determine. Further it's sunken down to the rockers so it may not fare too well underneath and in the frame? I'm sure of you look around you'll find something in better condition for more $$. That looks to be a parts car. It'll most likely not be economically viable in the long run when you could have sourced a better one to build.
     
    Last edited: Nov 10, 2017

  5. chstitans42
    Joined: Feb 7, 2011
    Posts: 715

    chstitans42
    Member
    from Anna, TX

    Curious if you guys would pay anything in the ball park of $1,350 for the car.
     
  6. FrankenRodz
    Joined: Dec 20, 2007
    Posts: 891

    FrankenRodz
    Member

    I don't think you'd get that much in Parts Sales if you tried to unload it.
    You can get running cars of that era for $4-5k, so why bother?
     
  7. henry29
    Joined: Sep 5, 2007
    Posts: 2,835

    henry29
    Member

    That's a business coupe, with the gas tank were the back seat would be.
    It really doesn't look very rusty from the pics and I have no idea how hard it is to get a title in Tx, but I would probably buy it.
     
    norms30a likes this.
  8. RaginPin3Appl3
    Joined: Mar 31, 2016
    Posts: 1,172

    RaginPin3Appl3
    Member

    that's not a $1,350 car, especially where you are. here in illinois that car would be like $600 in the same condition.
     
  9. If the car is located near you, North of Dallas, then humidity should not be a concern as in the Eastern States. With the the car sunk into the ground I would be concerned of the actual condition of the frame and suspension.
     
  10. mgtstumpy
    Joined: Jul 20, 2006
    Posts: 8,621

    mgtstumpy
    Member

    upload_2017-11-11_11-28-58.png

    Is the gas tank filler location the giveaway? Just trying to pick up one these nuances. ;)
     
    Last edited: Nov 10, 2017
    norms30a likes this.
  11. henry29
    Joined: Sep 5, 2007
    Posts: 2,835

    henry29
    Member

    Yep.
     
    Hnstray likes this.
  12. chstitans42
    Joined: Feb 7, 2011
    Posts: 715

    chstitans42
    Member
    from Anna, TX

    Hmmm was hoping for a back seat. I think the gas filler on the side is cool
     
  13. ...show me some of those that decent in Illinois for $600 and I'll buy em,..
    ...looks like a good solid car to me...no holes and all the glass looks useable,
     
    kiwijeff likes this.
  14. henry29
    Joined: Sep 5, 2007
    Posts: 2,835

    henry29
    Member

    Exactly what I was thinking. I've had several 40's chevy's , that car would be $2,500+ around here.
     
    Last edited: Nov 11, 2017
  15. jcmarz
    Joined: Jan 10, 2010
    Posts: 4,636

    jcmarz
    Member
    from Chino, Ca

    If you can get it for good price, the parts are out there to totally rebuild that car. Fenders, Trim, Glass, rubber moudlings, sheet metal, electrical, etc..etc...

    Sent from my SM-J700T1 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  16. 55chevr
    Joined: Jul 12, 2008
    Posts: 956

    55chevr
    Member

    If you like the car you should buy it. At the end of the project you will have $15K and 2 years work. What difference is $500 going to make? Most times if we were thinking like this was an investment we would just buy the car finished. Cheaper and no labor.
    Joe
     
  17. ol-nobull
    Joined: Oct 16, 2013
    Posts: 1,575

    ol-nobull
    Member

    Hi. Here for comparison are photo's of my 46 CHEVY LEFT SIDE 2.JPG IMG_1682  1946 Chevy left side.JPG 46 CHEVY LEFT SIDE 2.JPG IMG_1682  1946 Chevy left side.JPG IMG_1682  1946 Chevy left side.JPG 46 CHEVY LEFT SIDE 2.JPG 46 Stylemaster Sport Coupe. Bodies are quite similar but with the gas filler on yours it is definitely a business coupe and definitely has a 47 - 48 hood which can be told by looking a the outline in paint where the winged hood badge was located. A couple of good places to look online for parts costs would be www.chevsofthe40s.com or www.fillingstation.com .
    I would definitely suspect major rust damage on the bottom end the way it is sunk into the ground.
    Jimmie
     
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  18. chstitans42
    Joined: Feb 7, 2011
    Posts: 715

    chstitans42
    Member
    from Anna, TX

    Thanks for all the replies everyone!
     
  19. It seems so weird hearing people talking about titles for cars this old, no titles in New York State until 1973.

    You guys are lucky in Upstate New York someone would be asking in the $2,500-$3,000 range, and someone else would give it.
     
    Last edited: Nov 11, 2017
  20. belair
    Joined: Jul 10, 2006
    Posts: 8,635

    belair
    Member

    You should think about cost to build vs. cost to buy. Don't forget the years of work involved. A bill of sale in Texas is not worth the paper it's written on. Do you want an old car, or that old car.. you can do better. Might cost more, but you will be a lot closer to done at the start.
     
  21. BJR
    Joined: Mar 11, 2005
    Posts: 6,757

    BJR
    Member

    I always buy the cleanest most rust free complete car that I can afford when looking for a project. You will be money and time ahead if you follow this. Lots of projects are given up on because after getting into them it takes too much time and money to fix all the rust and damage.
     

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