Gentlemen, At my last post I have broken the tip of a carbide bit into the head of a rivet. I was able to knock that on through and finished removing all the door hinges from the doors. So I have now graduated to removing the other side of the hinges from the cab. No rivets, screws this side. I have a few that I just cannot get out and I am wondering if my impact screwdriver is optimal. As you can see in the first picture, it is an old "Esco" unit that worked fine on dirt bikes around 1970. However, I think it is set up to turn "too fast" and I might be better off with a unit that offers more leverage, less movement. Hoping to get any suggestions. I have been heating the screws up with a simple propane torch. I am hesitant to bring out the oxy/act as I am not sure I want that level of heat just yet. I know we all have our favorite penetrants. (And I know the real battle is getting the penetrant in where it will so some good.) I start out with putting a wax candle on the head and threads of the heated screw in hopes the wax will work its way in where I want it. If that does not do the trick I have Sea Foam Penetrating Oil (a buddy recommended it) and some Loctite Fast break that is ancient. Open to any suggestions, as to methods that have worked well for you !
I had really good luck using a fine tip on my oxy-acteylene torch, heating the head of the screw only, and doing that several times, with the intent of having the heat soak down in to the bolt. I did it with barely singeing the adjacent paint on the hinge. That should give you an idea on how I did it. All of the screws came out.
On the top one, you maybe at the point of welding a nut onto it. I say break out the real torch as well. Looks like a pain. You’ll get it. Keep patient.
^^^^^^^^^^^^ Those work great! Hit the trigger and turn, don't put turning force on it when you hit the trigger unless you have really strong bit's.
That screw buster looks interesting! I have used the oxy with 00 welding tip to get the screw red hot and then quench it WD40. Follow up with the impact driver. Failing that, welding a nut on like "walls" advised has never let me down. Pulled countless broken studs that way.
the "shake and break " pictured above i bought one from snap on in the 90s put it your air hammer , turn it all the way down setting wise stick it in the screw ,lean on the bar and braap braap braap and they are free ,, soak the crap out of them for a few days if they are nasty ,, they will come out THAT TOOL IS MAGIC !!!!! if you dont own one you should EVERYBODY!!! dosent beat up stuff the way a hammer driver does ,, works every time snap on is exactly like this https://www.autotoolworld.com/Wivco...-N-Break-Imp-Screw-Remover-Tool_p_187218.html fabricator john miss you dad
This worked for me......exact same problem.. Learned something AGAIN from "The H.A.M.B." website, where lots of hotrodders and old men post and discuss their cars. This one was relative to the fact that early Ford door hinge screws/bolts generally WILL NOT come out with conventional tools. But if one grinds down an impact hammer (pneumatic) flat "scraper" blade to "half a philips" shape, and stand on the impact hammer while turning the blade with vise-grips or channel locks, like MAGIC, the dang thing will unscrew NEARLY every time !
If you use the hand held tool don't get too carried away with it while smacking it with a hammer. The web between your forefinger and thumb likes to get in between. I've given up on saving the screws. I've removed plenty, just get the torch out, get red hot and most times they'll turn out with a good screwdriver with a hardened tip, tend to wreck the screw driver but that's the price you pay.
I looked on Eastwood site for @51504bat suggestion re: 'Shake-n-Break'. This tool sells from $18.99 (plus $18.00 shipping!) up to $49.00 plus shipping. From Eastwood, $18.99 dove in price with 'saved coupons' on their site. Tool cost $6.99! The shipping was Fedex, $18. But still... And, It's Eastwood. Thanks, 5150.
@Atwater Mike Sometimes you can get Eastwood stuff on Amazon for less and with free shipping. https://www.amazon.com/Eastwood-Impact-Buster-Remover-Phillips/dp/B07NMSDD1Z/ref=sr_1_2?crid=3JNP8881HJEFL&keywords=eastwood+air+impact+screw+buster&qid=1662165668&sprefix=eastwood+impact+,aps,190&sr=8-2 Also they list one from Jeggs that looks just like the Eastwood one for much less. https://www.amazon.com/JEGS-81149-I...buster&qid=1662165983&sprefix=,aps,108&sr=8-2
Sand the paint off, weld a large nut on the screw head and remove with wrench. Replace the screws with new ones. Done in minutes. Just did that on my shoebox.
The thing you have to think about is that the screw is rusted in place and possibly weakened by rust as well. When you start applying alternative methods, one of probably 3 things will happen. 1. Nothing 2. The screw will turn some and come loose. 3. The screw will turn some and break off in the hole. While the alternative methods are going to work a percentage of the time, they will also snap the screw a percentage of the time. Its a matter of chance. My reccomendation is to either concentrate some heat (small welding tip not cutting torch) on the bolt till it becomes red hot. Let it cool and do it again. Let it cool and one more time. By then you should have destroyed the rust between the screw and the hinge. Then try one of the conventional screw removal devices you have. If it still didn't move, weld a nut to it and hope it doesn't break when you turn it. If it does, you just have to drill it out............
Correct size screw driver, whack it with a hammer to shock the rust. Screw bit in a ratchet. The top one is done for, weld a nut on.
Lots of truth to his first comment, I'm left handed and my right hand packs a few scars from a hammer that missed the intended object. Lately I have heated a few bolts red hot and let them cool and it tends to burn the rust out of the threads. One of my longest owned tools is a Mac impact screw driver that I think I bought off the tool truck when I was in trade school. I don't remember not having it in the tool box as an adult.
I use the air chisel tool myself but I'm to cheap to buy one so I welded mine together from an old air chisel a socket on the end and a bolt welded on the side for a handle. Never had a screw that it wouldn't take out. Don't need any penatrating oil either. Took out a ton of model a door screws and never broke another one off.
I've found that the cordless impact tool used for wood screws to work amazingly well. It's not too powerful so less likely to break the screw, but takes a bit longer than an air tool. Also, you can clean the head recess with a sharp pick first, and apply a little valve grinding paste to the screwdriver tip. This really helps keep the tool from camming out of the screw recess.
I recently had the same problem with the hinges on my '27 T coupe. I used the impact but it shore the head of the screw so for the rest I placed a 1/4 hex nut over the screw and mig welded through the centre of the nut. All the rest come out easily with a socket on the nut.
I have used the eastwood tool successfully many times. I bought it on sale after it was 1st released. I was a skeptic but soon proved wrong.
I should add that eastwood recommends using low air pressure. I have had 90 psi on it before on tough door screws.
I agree, oxy heat on the screw is usually checkmate. So much so it often is what I try first. Obviously the philips slots in the upper screw are toast. I'd try a small sharp chisel and hammer to drive the screw CCW. Maybe use a thin abrasive disk to cut a slot in the head of the screw for use with a stout flat bit. That reminds me, I need to get a couple of drag link sockets, one to grind down a bit for lesser screws. https://m.media-amazon.com/images/W/WEBP_402378-T1/images/I/51SEcmN2A9L._AC_SY879_.jpg I'd smush the philips slots tighter on the lower screw. Then drive the phillips bit into the philips slots to form a tighter, work hardened philips pattern. That air chisel version looks promising. Separating the functions of the impact screwdriver.
Thanks guys ! Good suggestions all ! I am going to use a combination of the suggestions. One of which is to fire up the oxy/act. Will need to get tank refilled next Tuesday for that. I may wait to see what effect that has before purchasing the screw buster. If I need to go that route I will also have to purchase an air hammer. (Unless one of the local rental rents them) I may well gravitate to welding nuts on too. Thanks All !
I combine the "weld a nut on" with the wax. It is important to grind/clean the head so that you get a real weld. I'll weld a pretty good sized nut on and get the head red hot. I push the weld down into the head as long as I can, and then fill the nut with a puddle. While it's real hot, throw the wax to it. A little fire is nice, turns the wax in the joints to a sooty kind of stuff. Works a treat. Oh, and wait a while to call the customer. If they find out how fast you got the broken easy-out out of the deck of their unobtanium block, they may take offence at how much you charged them . Mike Like @flatout51
I did a YouTube video for fun using an air chisel with my own fabricated tool, this will give you all something to laugh at I found that heating the screws in combination with the vibration made a tough job much easier. I did not use Phillips head screws when I put the car together , found some socket heads that I liked much better (and used anti seize so the next guy can get the doors off
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