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Projects I'm not walking anymore-Model A Coupe project post war 40's build.w/PICTURES.

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Hitchhiker, Feb 10, 2010.

  1. Tank
    Joined: Nov 8, 2002
    Posts: 749


    Good score with the '40 brake stuff! That was my latest score for my '30 coupe also. From an old guy no less. Looks like we have VERY similar builds going on. Mine is '48 Flathead powered on an A frame with '39 trans, and '40 rear. Now about the perches, and shackles. Are you planning on using the '40 axle in the pic above, or do you have a dropped axle you got with the car. I can't remember. I have P&J perches on my front end right now. I had them laying around. They do fit nice. Im using an old MorDrop '40 front axle. I had the local spring shop make me a custom main leaf to put the spring over the axle where it supposed to be. I also had some P&J shackles. I used them for now but will probably swap for original "A" shackles for the "look". You could find some nice old "A" shackles and cut the brake pieces off. They would look like the P&J ones with a lil grinding. And theyre Ford pieces to boot.
  2. I think you are getting a few of the parts I have confused. the car came with a drilled 42+ front axle and bones. I won't be using these. I just recently picked up a stock 36 front axle,bones and rear bones. Round spindles and front juice brakes and a 40 rear, bones, and brakes. I intend to cut of the stock spring perch on the front bones and run spring over perches. I believe a stock model A spring in the front will work for this. In the rear I am still trying to determine how I want to set it up. I may not use the 40 rear at all. but at least I got the brakes.:D

    it's does sound like we are building similar cars. I will have to check yours out.

    On another note. I measured the drums today. I believe they are to far worn to run and may be unsafe.Tthey measure out to about 12.080 in front and will need some work to clean up. that will put them around 12.100. I think Max turn is 12.060 and discard is 12.090. My local shoe reliner is willing to turn them and oversize and fit the shoe. but I think I had better get new drums:( I plan to drive the wheels off of this thing and the last thing I need is brake problems. It's not like these things are top of the line anyways and I would rather not compromise them by running to thin a drum.:eek:
  3. moses
    Joined: Dec 7, 2004
    Posts: 1,099


    damn youve been hitting the mother load on parts..good on ya ..jeffrey
  4. Thanks. it's pretty awesome scoring all this old stuff. I wonder where it's all been. Does anyone else notice how old parts smell funny? :):rolleyes:

    Any input on running over sized drums. Or should I start a new thread.:confused:
  5. Tank
    Joined: Nov 8, 2002
    Posts: 749


    I think youre right. I got your parts confused..... Im setting my car up for spring over the rear, like stock. Im going to use the '40 rear I have. I picked up some adaptors/perches that you weld onto the rear axle for the spring to be on top. Like what they did in the Bishop/Tardel book. That way you have the strength of the '40 rear, but it looks like an "A" is supposed to. I just finished a frame width Z on the rear of my frame last night. Will drop it another 2 1/2 inches. With a reverse eye spring, and removing about half the leaves. I got just short of 6" drop in the rear. Which is about perfect to put 7.50-16s in the fenderwell where they should be. Let me know if you need some pics or anything.
  6. no one???????
  7. budd
    Joined: Oct 31, 2006
    Posts: 3,478


    so hows the project coming?
  8. Good.

    Been doing some research.....BORING!!!!!!!!!!!:p;)thinking about stepping the frame, lengthening it, and going with a spring behind rear axle vs. spring over. .......................

    and buying more parts. :rolleyes:


    actually, two of my roommates( a couple) moved out, which has kept me busy with helping them move and acquiring new furniture. But now I get the garage to myself. :D:cool: which is good news because my buddy was really messy and I really needed the space for the A.
  9. not much to report.....I did score a free 1942-1947 f1 frame for the center crossmember and two 16 x 4 1/2 steelies for $20 bucks.
  10. PoPo
    Joined: Jan 3, 2008
    Posts: 1,101


    you still wanting those aprons? or did you decide on a different path? if so let me know man. Its spring and time to clean out under the shelves.
  11. Thought you guys might want to see the F1 frame and crossmember after I drill out all the rivets.

    here is the free frame



    and the crossmember out



    also NoSurf sent me these to help repair the f-ed chop. Thanks dude!

    Last edited: Apr 26, 2010
  12. Mark H
    Joined: May 18, 2009
    Posts: 1,461

    Mark H
    from Scotland

    Great score on the frame.Doesn't get much better than 'FREE'.
    Good luck with the roof.Looks like you've got your work cut out there!

  13. thanks Mark. I'm gonna need the luck...:D:cool:

    Free is definitely awesome. I even passed the frame along to a guy building a f1 after I got the crossmember out. I'm not sure exactly why he wanted it, but it Saves me the trouble of cutting it up.:p

    I also got a sorta free front spring. The seller felt it wasn't described as listed. so I paid shipping and got the spring. It appears to have some leaves removed. I'll have to get pictures later.

    So now all i think i need to be a roller is front spring bolts and mount, 32-34 front perches, front and rear shackles, rear spring bolts and mount, a rear spring, and a junk model A rearend to rob the perches's always the little details.....

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