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Projects I'm not walking anymore-Model A Coupe project post war 40's build.w/PICTURES.

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Hitchhiker, Feb 10, 2010.

  1. If you don't know what the real dimensions actually are and like the look of the car what difference does it make if it is 2" chop or a 10" chop? Seems to me you are getting hung up on numbers that really are irrelevant. You either like how it looks or you don't shouldn't matter what the actual amount of the chop is. Sounds like if someone told you it was a 2" chop you would like it and if someone told you it is 5" you won't.

    Bottom line is do you like how it looks or don't you?

    Personally I think it look great!
     
  2. Thanks Popo for the offer on the chop parts and the encouragement

    I do want to put this thing on a 32 chassis, but realization has set in that I can't afford one at this point. My currant plans call for finding a cheap A chassis and to get it going on that. Then build a Nice 32 frame to put it on.
    I think for what era I am shooting for the A chassis would be more common. It was only a 15 year old car at that point.....


    I know, now you see why I am so confused....

    You are right. I was getting a little hung up on it. Shit a lot hung up..... It does look good and as it turns out it is way less chop than it looks like. Frankly it looks slammed in pictures.

    I guess part of my problem is. I have never sat in, ridden, or even been real close to a hot rod or stock model A. I was just going by others opinions that a 4 or 5 inch top chop is really hard to drive/live with....I don't honestly even know what I really want. The only thing I know I want it to do is drive the wheels off of it.

    As most of you can tell, I'm a real rookie when it comes to this Early ford stuff. My next oldest car is a 67. So there are alot of things I need to learn. This is my quest to build "MY" ultimate hot rod. In my head it has a two inch chop. Not that I don't like the look of more...it's just what I envisioned. I'm going to stumble and ask a lot of questions along the way. Some of them will make me look like a real idiot, hopefully some will make me look smart:p.

    At this point I'll be lucky if my lack of skill don't get this thing turned into a rat rod abortion.....:D

    Just kidding......I'll set it on fire before that happens..........:D;)
     
    Last edited: Feb 15, 2010
  3. It does not matter what the chop is............the first time you sit in ANY chopped car you have 2 sensations.................One is wow, I really am ducking a lot when I don't need to and ..............Two, wow this is badass after I realized I can see just fine if I relax.
     
  4. Asking questions won't make you look like an idiot it will make you look like someone that wants to do things right and is open minded and smart enough to know their limits and ask for help when you reach those limits.

    Good luck with your build!
     
  5. 41 Dave
    Joined: May 23, 2005
    Posts: 2,594

    41 Dave
    Member

    Hitchhiker, If you are targeting a late 40's rod, I don't think they would have used deuce frames. I would do some research in to what made a late 40s rod and go from there. They probably had a lot with hopped up flathead V-8s. Don't forget hopped up bangers Ford A, B or C. Also may have used 40's era Chevy sixes. Do the right research and you will have one neat Hot Rod !
     
    Last edited: Feb 15, 2010
  6. A 31 MO FO
    Joined: Nov 3, 2005
    Posts: 1,416

    A 31 MO FO
    Member
    from D/FW

    Thanks guys took a while to get done, and lot's of help from friends. But well worth it. That coupe will stay in the familia.:D
    Robert
     
  7. bought a frame today.:) cost me $200 and i got to meet a pretty cool dude by the name of Bob that is building a sweet 1930 model A fullfender roadster.

    [​IMG]
     
  8. Don't get caught up in the inches when your talking about your chop. First you didn't like it cause you only wanted a 2 - 2 1/2. Then you thought it was only a 2 - 2 1/2" chop you liked it. Then someone said it may be a 4" and your back to not liking it???

    It looks fine, worry about fixing the chop instead of the number of inches it may or may not be.

    You've got a good start to build .a very nice car, get a plan and stick with it...
     
  9. Don't worry, I'm back to liking it. It's a 3 inch. :D:p

    To clarify my like or dislike had nothing to do with how it looks. I just didn't want to waste a bunch of effort on a body or chop that won't work for me in the real world. I like the look from stock to slammed. Having no experience with a stock or chopped model A I was worried that it might be to low to be my daily driver.:eek: I know I could/should have clarified that in the original posts.

    When I posted that I didn't like a 4 inch chop, I was basing it off of other peoples opinions of what worked for them. I assumed what wouldn't work for them, wouldn't work for me...and you know what they say about assuming;)

    I realize I looked like a silly little school girl worrying about my chop. I'm over it.I like it and think it will work for me. To be honest it is the perfect height. It's not to low...but visually it looks way lower than it is.


    thanks for the advice and encouragement.
     
  10. scored five 16 inch wires today. Yeah! They are really nice with light surface rust. tires seem like they are about 50 years old with crusty old Porto-walls:) I met a really cool guy named Roger. He is 72 years young. He has a sweet 30 a roadster and 30 A truck with model b banger. Plus tons of parts and knowledge. I think I got a fair deal too

    [​IMG]
     
  11. Tank
    Joined: Nov 8, 2002
    Posts: 749

    Tank
    Member

    Cool score man. Been debating on wires or '40 steelies for my coupe. Ive got both. Its a toss up. Old dudes are cool. Ive made a lot of really good scores from them lately.
     
  12. I'd like to get some steelies too and some artillery wheels....tires and wheels are like shoes for MANTIQUES...

    I'm really enjoying all the adventures and Old Guys I meet. I haven't bought a part for this thing, in person from a guy, from anyone under 50 yet. They all want to know why a young guy like me is into early fords. I think it kinda surprises them.
     
  13. Mark H
    Joined: May 18, 2009
    Posts: 1,461

    Mark H
    Member
    from Scotland

    ^^^^Good advice there.If that is the era you're going for,check out one of the best threads on the HAMB;
    1940's period correct hot rods
    I reckon this build will be worth watching!Subscribed.
    Good luck and keep the updates coming.
    Mark.
     
  14. Well I've been traveling all over Washington gathering parts....

    On Thursday I bought this.

    [​IMG]

    Yes, It officially going to be Flathead V8 powered!

    then on Saturday, I went and scored all of this crap. the guy was gonna scrap it. here is some of it. I won't post all the pictures here.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I got 3 merc heads, 2 8ba heads, 2 fuel pumps, an oil pan, two bell housings, two timing covers. 3 exhaust manifolds. a 4 blade fan and deep pulley. a generator mount, some water necks, a weird governed side ways carb and manifold and some other small shit.

    then today I went and got some more stuff.....:D

    [​IMG]

    Juice brakes and spindles, front axle and bones, 36 rear bones, 40 rear bones and banjo rear and some pedals.....

    So all in all I've logged about 20 hours windsheild time in the last 4 days....

    I'm exhausted.:( but happy.:D:cool:
     
  15. thanks Mark that is a great compliment.
     
  16. Pingar
    Joined: Oct 19, 2009
    Posts: 64

    Pingar

    Wow...Alot of updates. Nice start.
     
  17. Lets not turn this into a what's traditional pissing match. Here are my thoughts on the matter.

    I do agree with you. It would have been very rare to see a model A on 32 rails. That being said, It's not impossible. 32 rails were available at the time. Though I doubt many would have been taking 10 year old cars apart for frame swaps when an A frame was enough for a flatty. My theory is that the 32 frame swap became popular when the first OHV v8's were being swapped in the 50's. Regardless I have decided to stick with the model A frame. because I have a new idea.....Splash aprons. Yes. I am going to run splash aprons. :D

    [​IMG]

    Yes, I'm sick. I'm going to replace all the wood too and do wood floor boards...
     
    Last edited: Mar 1, 2010
  18. PoPo
    Joined: Jan 3, 2008
    Posts: 1,101

    PoPo
    Member

    do you have aprons yet? If not PM Me.
     
  19. PoPo
    Joined: Jan 3, 2008
    Posts: 1,101

    PoPo
    Member

    also do you know why they ran them? It was easy to take off the fenders and running boards but pulling the aprons meant they had to detach the body from the frame and some of the guys didn't have the time or the tools to do such, aka a lift or a friend to lift the body from the frame.

    good luck man
     
  20. 41 Dave
    Joined: May 23, 2005
    Posts: 2,594

    41 Dave
    Member

    Hitchhiker, You sure hit the mother lode of vintage parts. Looking forward to seeing how you use them in your build. Agree with the idea of keeping splash aprons. Don't like the look-but it fits how the car may have been built. Keep us updatedas you make progress.
     
  21. Yeah, I just realized that the other day and since I'm a lonewolf it seems appropriate. thanks and you have a pm.

    thanks 41 dave. I've spent a lot of time over the last few weeks gathering this stuff and its nice that someone else besides me thinks it's more than just rusty old junk. I'm not 100% on the splash aprons yet, but they are really growing on me. They kinda remind me of a 32 frame. And I think it might be a little different than what we normally see these days.
     
  22. Mark H
    Joined: May 18, 2009
    Posts: 1,461

    Mark H
    Member
    from Scotland

    I love your plans for the car,looking forward to seeing it come together.And well done for saving those parts from the scrap yard.Much better than the stuff ending up in China,melted down and turned into woks!
    Mark
     
  23. thanks Mark! it was a real gamble on the flathead parts. i had to drive 3 hours each way sight unseen, but i think they were worth it.
     
  24. So today I took both the front drums off of the spindles.
    [​IMG]

    It was a real bitch since they weren't on the car. Also I guess I don't understand how the shoe adjusters work. I tried to back the shoes off but I didn't notice a difference. One side came apart without to much fuss, but the other.... It probably didn't help that the drums were pretty rusty on the brake surface area.

    [​IMG]

    On the other hand, The shoes look like they were assembled and never run. They have a ton of thickness left.This is the worst one.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I decided to take everything apart so I could clean it. I got wheel cylinder rebuild kits order at the local parts store at $6 bucks a piece. the spindles look amazing. the backing plates look really nice. I'm very happy with the condition of the parts.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    So I am wondering do you guys think I should run the shoes if they clean up? They look ok, like they have never been run, But have rust stains from the drums. I'm worried about the bonding being compromised. Better to be safe then sorry right? I have a local Friction guy right by my house, I'll have him check them out tomorrow. Also do you think the drums look bad? What are the max size specs so I can turn them? Also I am about to mock up the suspension. I want to get some new spring perches, shackles and a spring. I need a spring that matches the axle right? Or will an A spring with 36 front axle work. Were is a good place to buy suspension parts from? I prefer to support a hamber or local. thanks.
     
  25. Mark H
    Joined: May 18, 2009
    Posts: 1,461

    Mark H
    Member
    from Scotland

    I'd give the shoes a LIGHT sanding with 80 grit,just enough to remove the crap and check for any other contamination(oil etc)or signs of the lining lifting away from the shoe.Drums may clean up O.K. with emery cloth.But,as with anything to do with brakes,if in doubt,either get someone who knows their stuff to check them or replace.
    To determine which length front spring to use on a spring over set-up,measure between the centres of the perch pin bosses on the top surface of the axle then subtract 4 1/2 inches.That will give you the required free length of spring.
    Cheers,
    Mark
     
  26. johnny bondo
    Joined: Aug 20, 2005
    Posts: 1,547

    johnny bondo
    Member
    from illinois

    i wouldnt run those brake pads. old brakepads come apart easy.
     
  27. thanks again Mark!

    Yeah, that is my fear too. I am worried the bonding agent is compromised. I'd hate to have the friction come off and ruin a good drum. I'm probably going to have them redone.....

    Anyone have any recommendations on where to purchase shackles and perches?
     
  28. R Frederick
    Joined: Mar 30, 2009
    Posts: 2,660

    R Frederick
    Member
    from illinois

    You need to buy a nice little sandblast cabinet. Can't wait to see how this one comes out.
     
  29. Funny you should mention that. I just got a little counter top blaster for the shop. I have a new head off of a craftman compressor. I'm not sure of the ratings, but plumbed into a 30 gal. tank with a 1 horse motor it has got some pretty good nuts. It's enough to run my big impact gun. I just got a 100 gallon tank and I am going to get a new electric motor and plumb it all up. Also my buddy has a garden shed converted to blast cab and a bucket blaster I can use too. I can't wait to see it done too. I've wanted a car like this for about 6 or 7 years. Other projects were just in the way. I should have started gathering parts for it anyways.
     
  30. budd
    Joined: Oct 31, 2006
    Posts: 3,478

    budd
    Member

    i wouldn't run those shoes either, i have had one shoe come loose and jab between the other shoe and the drum, locked the wheel up, looks like a fun build, i have a 31 waiting for it's turn in the shop myself.
     

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