I feel bad I ask for help and can never offer all you veterans anything as far as advice because you guys seem to answer most if not all questions raised here. OK, Spare/Help a noob and Here goes... After saving up for over a year and the hopes of my bags finally be installed by a reputable builder, my employer announced they are seeking bankruptcy. What is a family man to do? I'll tell you.. You hold on to that money just in case. I could not in my right mind spend 4k+ knowing I could have no job next week. Well it has been 2 months, I'm still employed but money I saved up is getting used due to overtime I am not receiving(for hr parts) that I use to receive normally due to work load but now... So with that I said F@cK it, use half of the dough and I'll do it myself... with all your help of course. So my question is, Anyone ever bag a 48 Chevy coupe? What were the pain points? Any kit in particular? Should I get a hold of Gambino for a notch kit? does he even make them for this year car? I want to lay frame but the rear of the car would be a good start. I am by no means consider myself a pro. I have done a lot of tech reading in the past years and it seems that this project is slightly more than I can handle by myself and limited tools, but I just cant wait anymore. It's all about progress right? Also, I own a Millermatic 175 (230v -30amp) - Is this unit acceptable for what I need to do as far as FRAME WELDS or do I need a better welder? Any help, advice on where to start would be a appreciated.
not sure if this guy did his own, but his '48 is bagged... http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/member.php?u=26592 might ask him about seeing pics of his setup as a starting point...
The 175 will be plenty in my opinion. As far as the rear goes, I just did a 54 Buick bag system and used a triangulated 4-link from suicidedoors.com It was a really easy install and would be somewhat universal to big 40's-50's cars. There are other ways to do it but this is pretty simple, really rigid and will give the most vertical travel with the least change in driveline angle. That's why I prefer it. I think your first order of business needs to be measurement. Go over everything. Axle height with the wheels/tires you'll be using, ride height of the frame and so forth. This will tell you what kind of notch you'll be looking at. Other things to consider are components that are below the frame such as a tranny or exhaust. This car didn't need a notch but the owner didn't want it laying frame in the event that he lost a bag and had to limp it somewhere. It bottoms out at 2" of clearance with no notch. Obviously that's a whole different car but it's an example. There's a lot of variables even on identical cars. Desired ride height and tire diameter are the main ones. Rear bags are pretty simple and if you can weld, use a tape and an angle finder, you won't have much trouble. I'll be happy to let you know step by step how we go about laying all this stuff out if you want to PM me. Grant
Thanks for the advice and the offer for questions fellas. I might take you up on that offer. I have all measurements and contimplating just c notching instead of step notching. I need about 6 1/2" travel in the rear for my bumpers to be about mm from the ground. Cruising height would just be a little lower than it is right now.
My little bit of advice- Use GREAT componants. Dont ever forget that your life can depend on what you do with your cars suspension componants. Dont cheap out and save $50 on important pieces. Not worth your time or life. They also make a great presslock silicone line that I used on my Lincoln and I havent had any leaks at all, Its strong and easy to use. My 2cents
I would definitely get a hold of Alex Gambino. A '49-54 notch would probably work on your car without much trimming, but I'm sure he could tell you better. Also, if you're looking lay frame, you may want to explore the option of a triangulated 4-link (which he also sells). I'm putting one in my '51 right now and while it's also touted as a '49-54 part, it's basic enough that it would work for a lot of other applications. And who knows, he might even sell parts for your specific year. Bryan
I apply this to everything I do ( car, house, work)... Problem is not me its my wife that buys the cheap stuff. She get overly concerned about budget ( bless her heart) but not me. Especially for the things I like.. Good point though, I advice the same. QUOTE "My little bit of advice- Use GREAT componants. Dont ever forget that your life can depend on what you do with your cars suspension componants. Dont cheap out and save $50 on important pieces. Not worth your time or life. They also make a great presslock silicone line that I used on my Lincoln and I havent had any leaks at all, Its strong and easy to use."
well if you dont want to do it jason at johnsons garge kicks ass and can do that for you for the right price hes in hesperia killer on the hamb
Got a good lead on parts from another Hamber. I'll see the prices he offers and shop around a bit more too. Mr. Gambino, might be calling you soon Thanks for all the input and advice thus far.. You guys kick ass.
Met him once on the Hamb Chop. I would love to have him do it just afraid I cant afford him? Have him call me or Jason if you read this and have some time.we'll chat. Call Al @949-279-5686.. Thanks.
I ve been using suicide doors products since they came on the market . the make good stuff period. theres alot of things to consider when building a four link. ride height, bag leverage ratio, body roll etc. a triangulated 4 link is the way to go , genrally the lower bars will be about 1-2 inches longer than the top bars. the goal is to keep a -1 to -3 degree pinion angle at all times through the travel. this is refered to as instant center tracking. or ICT. the closer you place the bags to the pivot point the better the car will ride and the more lift you will get. a 2600 lb bag about 8 to 10 inches in from the axel would be fine. Parellel four links are great too, with a watts link perferabally, but a panhard with suffice. as for valves use smc or art they are the best electrics. make sure to run 2 compressors or a belt driven comp works fine too. fittings i would never use push in s they lead to failure and frustration. use a good barb compression fitting at all times. rule of thumb is that you have to have each axel separate when it comes to valves. you cannnot gang the front bags or back bags. very unsafe. any mig welder will do 120 v or 220v. notches can be made out of 2x3 1/4 wall box tubing. i did alot of bag set ups over the years, and bags will ride much better than any spring out there. if you have any ques. feel free to ask.
I planned on 4 linking (triangulated) my car from the start. Good awesome info. Any others, pls. speak up and make my life a bit easier. Thanks to all.
Jason at SD will make the bars any length you want. plus they are super strong. the traditional pete and jakes stuff cant compare. theres another company i like to use for brackets and stuff, google "guilty by design" this guy makes some nice gussets and 4 link tabs. very fancy and inexpensive....
I found these a few weeks ago, may be of some help if you decide to do it yourself. http://www.lowridermagazine.com/tech/0603lrm_cheap_air_bag_suspension/index.html http://www.lowridermagazine.com/tech/0604lrm_air_bag_suspension/index.html http://www.lowridermagazine.com/tech/0605lrm_air_bag_suspension/index.html
also check out dropndrag and streetsource some of the stuff on there is silly buy there is alot of good info onwhat your doing. it will def shed some light.
this is the way to go if you have the OG drive line very low buck install......or just do the same and add the 4 link
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