The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Crazydaddyo, Dec 1, 2009.
Heres what I found in Vol. 9 #2 Oct. 1999 SOSS
Yup...got some pics somewhere. Let me go and have a look for them. Back in a bit...
this is some gooood reading this month- I am not even done and i am already planning my next thing to modify after I get her running.
Okay. Here's the pic I took after dropping my '26 T Touring body on my A chassis...
Rather than cut any of the already flimsey body away or reduce the size of the pedal pads, I spent a few hours with a gas torch and bent them over to the right. It was a simple as that, to be honest. Took a few attempts to get them to line-up, but its worth the time.
thanks, I knew it had to be pretty simple. At 9 degres out this morning my brain would freeze up when I would go out to look at it.
Volume 9 #2 page 25 34 degrees on center on crank. If you read the article they recommend having a experienced shop do it. There is/was a drill designed for this purpose called a crankshaft drill. Crankshaft drills usually have a 135 degree split point which helps to keep the drill centered and requires less pressure. Deep hole drilling can be a bitch. It is kind of like some sex you go slow and pull it out often. The old standard would be 1 or 1/2 diameter between pull outs. This is some thing you learn by feel. If you break a drill possibly TS. You may have just gone into the scrap business.
All things in good time, polecat.
Get yours running- I've been waiting to see it in person!
Thanks Bill and Stumpjumper, I have had the joy and the pain of deep hole drilling. A broken off 3/16 drill in the bottom of a 4" deep hole is enough to bring tears to a grown mans eyes. Been there, done that.
The drawing of the BB counterweight, and the dimensions of the crankshaft diameter that it goes on bears out what I posted about shrinking VS press fits. The interference can be as much as .012" or as "little" as .008". For a 4.140" diameter the recommendation for a press fit would be .0040" to .0045". There is no way that these could have been pressed together without streaching the thin area of the counterweight, making it's hole out of round. Even shrinking with this much interference would cause the thin area to stretch- max. shrink interference would be on the order of ..0055"-.0060". Proves why the ones that I have taken apart were all loose.
Hey Guys. First banger meeting. Good stuff for sure. I was always worried about highway speed but now I'm feeling a bit better. I'd be happy to see 55 for a good stretch.
I have the chassis mostly together as of today and I'm working with a stock engine and trans. for the time being. Like to do some speed goodies down the road when the $$ allows. It's a 30 coupe basket case body that will be need some assembling and serious TLC.
Looking forward to reading up and being involved in these threads. Keep the good stuff coming. Now back to bearings. I had to wollop on the pistons pretty good in an extra engine I scored to break them free. I was assuming that I probably beat the babbit pretty good. What's the best route to have them redone when the time comes? Sending them out or buying exchanges? pros/cons to either?
That's right Rivet. Not even done and I have the new engine in the works already!
How did you drill the pins out? are they softer than the counterweight material? Did the drill just follow the pin or did you set it up in a mill?
If you are looking to put the engine together as a spare with as little work done to it as possible, You can exchange your old rods for new babbited one from any of the major Model A catalog houses. You just need to know what your rod journal diameter is when ordering.
I would say that you'll also need to get a new set of pistons too. Stock ford pistons aren't all that strong, and if you hurt the babbit, chances are the piston you were beating on is trashed too.
Your shrink fit numbers jive with the rule of thumb that I've always used = .001 per 1" of diameter. 4" dia = .004" of shrink. More then that and something will have to give. I've seen sleeves split as they cooled because there was too much shrink built into them.
Were the BB weights loose before the pins were removed?
I posted this on another thread - thought it was appropiate to post it here too.
Unfotunately I know nothing about this setup, except for the fact that its a 455 Olds head, and V8 water pump. Sorry.
Can't wait to have both of our bangers done brother.
Has anyone got a way to attach shocks to the front axle of a "1928 A" with mechanical brakes? I have made up some brackets for the rear shocks which seem OK. I don't want to drill the axel or weld to it. we have tough rego laws here and they take a dim view of modifying steering components. I am hoping for a bolt on arrangement.
I used a Speedway lower shock mount
been chasing down other old car junk. haven't taken time to cc repop winfield. thinking that i would like to cc all my heads again at one time. so i may wait until i pull off the super winfield and do them all.
found an original cyclone v8 water pump adaptor. anyone know when these were first came out and offered for sale?...zach do you know?
You won't get a Speedway lower mount on to the standard perch bolt though, and the matching "long " perch bolts do not have the brake anchoring tag.
1/ add a tag to aftermarket perch bolts and use the bolt on style mount under the perch bolt,
2 use lever shocks and use the original ball to mount off ,
3 change the axle to a 32-36 axle and make a !/4 " thick U shaped bracket with a shock mount, which would also take up the difference in axle width so you could still use the Model A wishbone .
4 Make clamp which closely follows the shape of the axle and clamps together at the bottom fastened there with a long stud to mount the lower shock eye.
If this was placed on the chassis side of the perch bolt it would not slip and should clear the spring /hanger.
5/ Point out to the inspectors that Ford drilled the axles in 1948 to mount the tube shocks.
Ask Cyclone Kevin , he has the history and is remaking the parts.
Theres a shocker mount that comes off an F100 - I have a pair here - and its designed to bolt through the axle, and has a shocker mount, which is an eyelet/hole for a pin shocker mount.
i'm thinking it could be thinned thru the eye section to fit b/w a 2" axle and the wishbone, ad the bolt used to mount the shocker.
i'll look into it for you
thanks 97! pm sent. will post info for others when i get it.
Kevin is a great guy, he can give you all of the info you need on any Cyclone speed parts.
I was talking to Kevin Wednesday about the possibility of getting some Cyclone Hi Comp heads made. He is looking into it.
How did you drill the pins out? are they softer than the counterweight material? Did the drill just follow the pin or did you set it up in a mill? <!-- / message --> <!-- sig --> ______________
I set the crank up in a mill with the main journals resting on a set of high vee blocks, centered under the spindle. Rotated the crank until end of pin appeared centered with spindle, and drilled about .030" undersize, then bored hole till remaining pin material broke up. Neither the pin, nor the counterweight material appeared to be significantly heat treated.
Ans to answer CDO's question- They did not seem to have any movement before the pins were removed, but after the pins were out of the way, lightly tapping on alternate sides with a lead hammer removed them easily-"rocking" them off. I would say that they were .0005" to .001" loose.
So I have been busy with work the last few weeks and have only been able to get on late at night mainly, but here is a little bit of what I have been up to..... I helped with a 5 speed conversion into a bone stock model A 2-door last weekend pictures sometime in the future as that is a lot of pictures and explaining. I got a phone call about some "Model A" parts upon further talking to the fella sounds more like quite a few Model B parts also. The pictures also show some A(s) and parts of cars I can not identify. Heres a couple of pics, I am going to check out the whole lot next weekend. If any of you can ID anything I would appreciate it through PM only. I can make out the obvious Model A parts. Oh and the story goes the old man wants alot of the stuff "gone".
I have also been helping out fellow HAMBers with their cars and in turn today one of them helped me pull this "Diamond" in the rough. Miched at standard, had early 28 parts on it all the way around, and a stock 30-31 head no diamond there . Frame had star AA and 4 digits on it if that tells you anything hint hint AR. It also appears to have no cracks upon initial inspection. The test will come maybe next weekend upon teardown......
So hope you enjoy a bit of my banger endeavors.-Weeks
Thanks for the info Herb.
Currently stripping my spare B engine down. As some of the white metal has seen better days and I'm already running a white metal B in the Fordor, I figured I'd look at converting it to shells with a view to building a 'better' engine. Current best is a 22.5@ 57 with 3.54 on 6.50 x 18 firestones. Obviously this could be improved by putting the engine in something lighter than the current barn...
I'm picking up a counter balanced crank over Christmas - anyone have any drilling details for a B crank?
What diameters are required for what shells for the crank and rods? I saw mention of BMC shells above?
Any other UK Hambers want to add to the 3 or 4(!) engines we'll be taking in for machining to try for a bulk discount?
Thank you. I will try it as soon as I get caught up. I'm thinking of replacing my 2 port and building a "B" flathead for my RPU with the "BB" crank
My guess is a water pump that bolts on in place of the water inlet housing on the LH side of the block with a long housing and shaft running forward to a pulley for the belt. Never seen one for an A/B block but why not?
I'm liking that AA flatbed with the rarer than rare wire wheels. My dad had one when I was a kid with those wires, and his friend had a AA roadster truck (orchard truck) with the same. Very cool.
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