I'm askin' Santa for a good December Banger Meet

Tom,
Are you running insert bearings in this engine? Is it pressurized too?

I just got my hands on an original two port. It will probably be my next build.

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Is there a date stamped on the Riley?

 

I'll have to look Bill, Where would it be stamped?

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Mine is stamped under the front rocker cover.

 

AndyG - we may have met a year or two ago at the Springfield meet. Maybe you have a pickup with a banger?

I know for sure I saw the Bonneville car there. Great guy driving it. From what I recall, it had a bolt in roll cage and was running two Harley carbs. He told me all kinds of details and let me give his car a strong once over. Thanks for posting and helping me remember.

 

Cdo
i may have time to cc repop Winfield tomorrow. Super is still on car. I'm pulling banger out in next couple weeks to go through it for father's day 2010 trip from AR to Cali-forn-ia. Cross country in a bangered roadster...hopefully. cc will change as chamber design is finished.

 

Yes. I think I remember. How tall r u? Lol. I took pu cab off and put roadster body on. Same chassis.

Rusty Stevens (Rustman as Mort calls him) is the owner of the white 29. He is a real standup guy and has bitchin' rides all around. The super Winfield on my engine is his. I feel very fortunate to have met and gotten to know him. Callie boy who has paid dues to Salt Gods as many others on here have as well! The Evans and 81's I bought from him. That setup came off his bville car.

 

I will repost my post I did last night. I think we are going to have a great banger meet too end the year.

I am with you Crazydaddyo ( Lets see if we can keep the discussion about insert bearings going.)

OK guys its time to order piston for my B it looks like it will be .125 over bore is .100 now. I would like to do .110 or .115 I got my engine guy looking with ROSS the next time he calls them. Do I want to go with the std. ROSS piston or go with a custom shorter lighter piston? I might go custom just to do the thinner rings. Now for the rods what is out there for dream rods I would love to make some Alum. rods at work. I just don't know what bearings to use. Any info on that would be a big help. Would you stroke the crank and use A rods and how much? I have read a lot of post on broken stoked cranks CDO I think you had 5/16 stroke in yours when it broke. So maybe I should only go around .200. The babbitt for my mains is real nice so I will keep that for now. I got 1.730 intake and 1.625 Exhaust valves. The cam is in the air for now.
Holy crap my head is going to pop can you tell what has been on my mind this weekend.
thanks for any input and .02 cents you might have I should ask all the stuff next mouth but I can't wait
later Bill

 

Bill,
I am trying to dig up bearing size specs. I know some use cat or continental bearings and others. What is the general use of this new engine...street, race, etc?

 

Bill,
I am trying to dig up bearing size specs. I know some use cat or continental bearings and others. What is the general use of this new engine...street, race, etc?

 

fast street I am the only banger around. All the V8 guys say I cant run 70 75 on a long trip. I think I can with the right parts and some help from you guys.
My wife's shit box only has 155hp and ways over 2 times the weight of my A

 

Going 70-75 would be no problem...I think. The car is light enough. I would say your final drive ratio is what will allow you to do it for extended periods of time. As long as your rpms arn't to high it should be fine.

 

What do you guys think about RPM? I plan a 5 Speed S10 trans ,probably a 3.78 rear gear and probably a 29 or 30 inch tall rear tire. This in a 25 T roadster that should weigh under 2,000lbs, reasonably mild banger with a header, WW Stromberg, not much else. Would 70 for long stretches work with this?....

 

Hey Crazydadyo maybe you could help me out? I gotta a question I think you would probably know the answer to. I have a dan price oil pump in my engine. It makes a good amount of pressure about 40psi when cruisin.. Well I'm pretty sure it's causing the cam to walk forward and is causing my timing to jump around. I've checked it with a timing light and I can see it jumping around at elevated rpms say 1500+. I don't think the stock plunger is keeping the cam in place. I've seen a banger before that the person had drilled and tapped the front cover to put a bolt in with a lock nut so they could adjust it and put more pressure on the cam to hold it in place. Do you think this is a good idea or do you know of a better solution? Any help or ideas from anyone would be appreciated.
Thanks!!

 

Bill
just some ideas and specs
from jay steel:
federal mogal part #'s:
BLMC#1 Part # 2965CP Shaft Diameter 1.625" Housing Bore 1.771"

Stock A rod would have to be bored from 1.6245 to 1.771 or .146" (slightly more than an 1/8". That's slightly more than a 1/16" off each side
this would normally be used as an A main but if you could make a rod with that bore size then you could offset grind the B rod journals down .250" from stock 1.875" to 1.625" which is stock A mains size. Rod housing bore again would be 1.771". I don't know if stock A rods can be bored that large or not.

Hope this helps
ps. Stock B rods and crank:
Nissan#4 4245CP 1.875" 2.021" or
BLMC#6 65935RA 1.875" 2.021"

 

What is the OD ratio and I'll figure it for you. Some are .82 and some are .69 I think. I may be way off on the numbers there but one is deeper than the other. Which is yours?

 

with a overdrive setup inline with driveshaft/torque tube will let you do that, just need some thing to drop rpms in final drive. I have a volvo (gearvenders) type setup in stock rearend as well as a R 10 borg warner setup in the driveshaft and housing for a stock rear end. both for model A/B 28 to 34 . can send ya pics if it will help

 

thank ya sir! i looked at it in different places for about 20 minutes the other night and i didnt think it would change anything but still thought i would check to see if anyone ran into any problems.

 

I'm running a T-5 in my car. weight @ 1800 lbs.. B engine with stock non weighted "B" crank and Babbit, High Comp. head (7.65:1) Modified B cam (same lift more duration) Dual 81's, FSI distributor. Oil pump modified for flow, but not pressure, splash rods. I'm running 3.78 gears in a quick change. 8.90-16 Firestone dirt track tires that are @ 30.5" tall. I run 70 -75 mph with no problem.

I have resiliently been playing around with final drive ratios with the QC. For the past year or so I have been running a final drive of 3.48. I only had one set of change gears that were either 3.48 or 4.11.

A few months ago I went on a little 75 mile freeway drive with my brother in law riding shot gun. I weight @ 245 he weights @ 300. figuring that the car might labor a bit driving up some of the hill that we would go over on our trip, I swapped to the 4.11 set up. We met up with another HAMBer who had a gps. We headed out with me in the lead. We drove open freeway all of the way there at 70 - 75 mph. I've been to Del Mar and back 180 miles round trip. with the 3.48 set up and even got it up to 85 mph at one spot.

A month or so ago I bought another set of change gears that make the final drive 3.05. I like these better for around town because it brings the lower gears more into real world driving. I can go 65 -70 in 4th and 5th drops to @ 1650 RPM @ 65 mph. Probably too high for 5th gear cruising, but my overdrive combo is @ .66:1. So the engine doesn't get happy untill @ 75 - 80 mph. My car is low and the 109" long wheel base help keep it from getting too squirreley. Those of you running stock framed full fendered sedans might not feel comfortable at these speeds.

I don't drive long distance in my car because it's a hotrod and I want to get out of it after 100 miles or so. In other words, It's not a touring car.

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mine is a full fendered stock 30 sedan. the thought of 80 makes me cringe

 

2045 rpm with 0.69 OD
2430 rpm with 0.82 OD

assumes: 70 mph. 30" tire. 3.78 rear

yes it will work if engine has good torque.

2276 and 1915 with 3.54
2642 and 2223 with 4.11

 

I had cam walk problems with my strocker engine. I pulled the timing cover off and saw that the cam nut had been rubbing on the boss in the cover that the plunger rides in. At first I thought that the cover was too close to the end of the cam, but after measuring the stack ups I found that there was @ .045" clearance. The cam was walking @ .050 forward. Right about that time I got a PM from Sawracer here on the HAMB who had a prototype front cover with an adjustable brass set screw instead of the spring plunger. That solved the problem. I don't have long term results in that feature as the crank on that engine broke due to other causes about 1000 mile later.

These pictures show the before and after.

 

has anyone tried different tire tread patterns along with all the other changes, i mean, with bangers little things can make a significant difference, i was thinking about this today, and i know it's alot different situation but on a motor bike i built i first had a dirt style heavily treaded tire on it and my buddy could pass me (and he has about 80 pounds on me) i switched to a cruiser bike tire and i could pass him, i would like to see some tests of this, because i'm thinking that maybe a dirt track style rear tire might have alot more friction on pavement than a straighter tread tire... i could just be over thinking this too...

 

For those of you that want to play with theoretical "speeds and feeds" here is a link to a neat calculator:

http://www.accuautoparts.com/calculatorfin.jsp

You plug in your drive line specs and tire size and it does all the rest.

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If you read this post and the responces:

http://www.fordbarn.com/aforum/messages3/521628.html

Max Sr. at H&H might have all the answers you need.

I was running a set of there first H beam rods in my strocker engine and I was very impressed with the quality.

 

Awesome info fellas. This definitely has been a great start to the month.-Weeks

 

Thanks Crazydaddyo!! I guess it must be common... Are those front covers availablbe? If not I guess I could modify the original one with a brass bolt. I'll have to take the front cover off and take a look.

 

Here is what I do. I use a 3/4 16 thread and mill a hex on the head. Each full turn is .062 so 1 flat is .0103. I try for a total of .005 endplay (1/2 flat). The reason the photo of the front looking so shiny is that I use a stainless 3/4 16 jam nut that I polish. The bore for the stock spring is 11/16" which is the tap drill size for 3/4 16. I thread the stop to a "close" fit to the jam nut and so far have had no leaks. I indicate the hole in and drill through the cover then i mill a small flat on the front side for the nut to register against. Also notice that I crossdrill the stop/bolt to line up with the original oil hole in the casting for lubrication There is a guy in No Ca that installs a needle bearing thrust on an exchange basis. He also make a good front seal adapter

 

I see you met the Rustyman, a transplant from the bay area. And he is a really cool guy and a very neat race/street car.--TV

 

Brass is not a good substitute for bronze. Braze build up on a bolt would work better