Hi all, I need help as I am NOT getting spark to the spark plugs. I pulled a plug and cranked the engine and Im not getting any spark. Ive read about a thousand posts using the search, but havent really found my answer. The background info: I am still working on getting the 49 F1 running and I have installed the Rebel wiring harness per the instructions but am not getting any spark to the spark plugs. My instructions are identical to those posted here: http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/95...tructions.html Its a 390 Ford Engine with C4 Tranny, with stock type electronic ignition from a 1971 F150. The engine ran when pulled about 10 years ago and I pulled the oil pan and valve covers and everything looks fine and clean, no gunk build-up and a nice coating of oil on all the internal parts. It really looks like it was jsut sitting for a few days inside the engine. Knowing the parts were pretty old (even though they were new when I pulled the engine), I changed out the Distributor cap and rotor, new coil, new coil wire, new ignition box (didnt save that from the truck the engine came from), new spark plug wires,and new spark plugs. I used the Heavy Duty Ignition Box from Napa. The engire cranks over just fine, and after changing to a GM headlight switch, all the lights and everything else seems to work fine. I have a multi-meter and It has 12.46 volts to the POS side of the coil with the key on. I havent been able to test the POS side while cranking the engine. To test the coil is sending spark to the distributor, do I need a test light and just stick it into the coil output while I crank? Will it blink on and off, or does it send out a constant spark to the distributor cap? I mounted the ignition box on the driver side inner fender, under the master cylinder. Does the ignition box ground through the 3 mounting bolts? If so, it might not be grounded due to paint. Thanks in advance. -D
I would check for pulsing voltage on the NEG side of the coil. If it's steady on, you have something in the ign system wrong. If it's steady off, coil is bad. If I recall correctly, box doesn't have to be grounded. Also make sure coil POS voltage stays hot while cranking. If not, recheck your wiring.
Stock type electronic ignition from a 71 F-150. I don't think Ford had electronic ignition until 74. You can connect a spark plug to the coil wire and ground to check for spark. Check to make sure you have a good ground on the case of the coil as well as the correct polarity on the coil.
You are correct about the Duraspark not coming out until 1974, but you are wrong about grounding the coil - ignitions coils do not get grounded with exception of the GM HEI's. On a Duraspark the pos side of the coil should get 12v+ and the negative side should be a green wire to the Duraspark ignition box.
The engine and transmission came out of a 71 F150, but I put it into a 76 F100. So I guess ignition would be like a 76. Its the Duraspark box. -The green wire from the ignition bos is going to the NEG side of the coil. The Red wire from the ignition box is going to the POS side of the coil. The Pink wire marked coil is going from the fuse box to the POS also. The coil is NOT putting out any spark....its brand new. When I put the volt meter on the POS side with key on, it reads 11.97 volts. When I crank it, it drops down to 9.96. I put the other coil on and it does the exact same thing. Wouldnt this mean the ignition box isnt telling the coil to put out power?
As 50Suburban said: If you put a test light (not a voltmeter) on the negative post of the coil (and ground it) it should flash when you crank the engine. If it doesn't glow, the Duraspark box is not grounding (breaking ground) the coil...no fire. Make sure the ground wire from the Duraspark box has a GOOD path to ground. If you're not sure, run a jumper wire from the ground wire straight to batt. -- and try it again.
That might be it... I ran the black w/green stripe wire from the box to the black wire on the distributor. In the Rebel Kit Directions, It only shows it to go the the distrubutor plug and thus doesnt go to a ground anywhere. I assumed it was grounded through the distributor, or grounded through the case of the ignition box. Ill go try it and get back with you all. Might be a couple of days if this storm system comes in like they say.
I wired the ground black wire on the Duraspark to a good ground, and to the black wire on the distributor. I used a test light on the Negative terminal of the coil to a ground and cranked it over, the little light flashes just like everyone said it should. Just to verify; To check that there is spark coming out of the coil, I can just take a spark plug and plug onto the coil wire and set it on a known ground and it should spark when I crank the engine over.....right? I used a continuity tester to make sure the spark plug was grounded well. I checked the POS Terminal while cranking and it has power with in the key on position, and while key in start position. Still no spark coming out of the coil. Plugged the wire back to the dist cap and checked one of the spark plugs wires with a spark plug attached and it on a good ground...no spark there either. I pulled the coil wire (even though it was new) off and used the one off my Model A (has a Small Block Chevy which runs fine). Still no spark coming out of the coil. I changed out the coil to the old coil, still nothing. Attached is a pic of the new coil I have. Any ideas what to check next?
Swap your coil on to an engine you know runs and try it. Your tests seem to have proved everything else is working.... flashing light says the duraspark is grounding the coil. 12V on positive says you have enough input voltage.
My other two engines are Points distributors with a ballast resistor, will putting the Electronic ignition coil on them hurt them, or is that what the resistor is for....?
I hooked the Coil up the my Model A, It starts just fine. Put it back on my 49 F1, The coil is NOT putting out any spark. When I put the volt meter on the POS side with key on, it reads 11.97 volts. When I crank it, it drops down to 9.96. I put the other coil on and it does the exact same thing.
Ok, then... The link in your first post didn't work for me... looked around and picked this diagram, as I found several and some were slightly different. This looks like it came from Ford, so I'm assuming it's not someone else's better idea. http://www.allfordmustangs.com/foru...stion-do-red-white-wires-module-duraspark.jpg Double check your power wires, just for drill. There are 3 different positive sources for the system. Note also, the jumper wire straight from the ignition switch "S" to coil +. You should have full voltage to the coil during cranking. What is the voltage at the battery during cranking?
Ok, then... The link in your first post didn't work for me... looked around and picked this diagram, as I found several and some were slightly different. This looks like it came from Ford, so I'm assuming it's not someone else's better idea. Double check your power wires, just for drill. There are 3 different positive sources for the system. Note also, the jumper wire straight from the ignition switch "S" to coil +. You should have full voltage to the coil during cranking. What is the voltage at the battery during cranking?
Exwestracer, I printed this and chased my wires.....again, thats how its wired. Im changing out the starter (it needs it, have to giggle the power post to make it work and its over 20 years old) and the regualtor. I also ran a jumper wire from the Solenoid White wire to the coil Pink wire (POS) just to make sure. No idea why it goes down to 9 volts when cranking...... still should get at least a weak spark, shouldnt I? Ill let you know how that comes out. Already had a friend (works at a HVAC company) come out and chase my wires and compare to the diagrams and he thought it should fire up also. Even pulled the coil and out it on the other car to show it works.
Well after running seperate wires for the entire ignition module, changing out the distributor and still nothing, I took the ignition module back to O'Reilleys (it was brand new only had it a month, never dropped it or anything). I got a new module from Napa, it started right up. The Module was bad from the factory. All of my wires were ran correctly (I really thought I ran one to a wrong place), but I put the new module on my wires instead of the jumper wires we ran and it worked. Here is a video of it actually starting up....it was actually the 3rd time It started as I had to replace the fuel pump also. Thank you all very much for helping to track down the problem!!!!!!! Now I gotta figure out why the transmission wont engage...but thats another new post. http://youtu.be/8AavMkM11qo
I actually got the timing really close just by marking the old distributor and putting the new one in the same place. Pretty proud of myself there, gotta get a timing light to dial it in though. Here is it starting the next morning 23 degrees. It doesnt have any exhaust yet, gotta quiet it down. No, I dont have a windshield. Yes, thats a huge rust out on the fenders I have to fix. Thank for looking. http://youtu.be/VPEDPoBQ_S0
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