If it's a collapsed lifter, one heck of a weird one....

You REALLY need to replace the cam and lifters at the same time
so they can break in together.Good luck my friend.
ZDDP is the way to be safe too.

 

Early heads had pressed in studs if the stud is pulling out (getting longer) the gap rocker arm/push rod increases. The fix kit to tap head install a screw in stud. Roger

 

Just a thought, one based on economics (which is really important nowadays)....to avoid the whole break-in issue and allow me to return the Edelbrock set, would it be possible to buy one new hydraulic lifter and just put its' good guts in the bottom portion of the one native to my engine?

 

The design might not be compatible. Dollars to dougnuts, I'll bet if you surgically cleaned up your old one, it would work fine...especially since it freed up once you took it apart. It's worked for me a number of times...

 

Ok, new question, same subject. I read conflicting reports of pre-priming the lifters and not doing it. I see valid reasons for both, but went with pre-soaking/priming them. THEN I notice the little yellow leaflet hidden UNDER the styrofoam from Edelbrock saying not to prime them as it *could* cause damage. Did I just F myself?

 

No...they'll bleed down while you're cranking it over...

 

Ok...GOOD TO KNOW!!!! Thanks!

EDIT: Will this occur during priming the engine before start up, or during start up?

 

Once oil pressure comes up, and the valve springs are putting pressure on the lifters as the cam is turning, then they'll bleed down...