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Projects I want some new body shop inventions !!!

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 31Vicky with a hemi, Dec 21, 2017.

  1. As previously stated, the Soft Sanders people import a wet or dry from Germany. Expensive, but good stuff. One roll of any particular grit should get you thru one car.
    www.softsanders.com
    I don't wet sand until after the clear coat is on, but if you need wet or dry up to 400 grit, the standard 3m sticky rolls are somewhat waterproof.......not advertised as such, but they are.
     
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  2. pragmatist
    Joined: Jul 5, 2010
    Posts: 42

    pragmatist
    Member

    I want thick paint. Paint you can put on with a brush and after several coats you pay an expert buffer to cut and buff it to bring out the luster. No more paint booths!! No more paint masks!! No more EPA!!
     
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  3. Tell them to leave out the reducer when they mix it.
     
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  4. bchctybob
    Joined: Sep 18, 2011
    Posts: 2,068

    bchctybob
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    As long as we are wishing; I think I'd like a shapely, over-sexed, girlfriend who is an expert at body and paint work, who just can't do enough for me. I'll just sit back and supervise.
    Of course, I'll have to ask the wife......
     
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  5. blowby
    Joined: Dec 27, 2012
    Posts: 6,405

    blowby
    Member
    from Nicasio Ca

    80 grit beer huggie/sanding roll.
    [​IMG]
     
  6. Harleyrds2
    Joined: Dec 25, 2016
    Posts: 10

    Harleyrds2

    Texas57 likes this.
  7. mike bowling
    Joined: Jan 1, 2013
    Posts: 3,444

    mike bowling
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    A robotic hand that does sanding in small areas where you normally use your ( bloody) fingertips.
    Maybe it could be an app you download on your phone to run?
    "Yes, the HAND is in the next bay finishing up that Maserat..................Oh shit! Shut the f#cking thing off!! Oh, Hell!! What did you tell that GD thing?? Holy Crap!!"
     
    Last edited: Dec 23, 2017
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  8. ceege
    Joined: Jul 4, 2017
    Posts: 204

    ceege
    Member
    from NW MT

    @31Vicky with a hemi . Thanks for the Exactline tools reference. Really got me thinking about how old and stuck in my ways I am getting.
     
  9. This always makes me shake my head. Buy a thick filler to save a few bucks and then thin it with a product that costs twice as much to make it perform the way you want rather than just buying the right filler in the first place.
     
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  10. Petejoe
    Joined: Nov 27, 2002
    Posts: 10,412

    Petejoe
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Zoar, Ohio

    That’s exactly what she said.
     
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  11. nrgwizard
    Joined: Aug 18, 2006
    Posts: 1,147

    nrgwizard
    Member
    from Minn. uSA

    Hey, pragmatist n 31Vic;
    This existed in the 50's->60's. My dad told me (in the early 70's) about him painting a car (~ mid 50's) using a powder-puff. Same thing as women use to powder their faces for makeup - or used to. He said to get a nice job, he washed the car 1st ( :D . Seriously, as lots of folks didn't, apparently.). Anyways, this required a special-form of paint (He said it was referred to as: "Powder-puff paint" ?), that was pre-mixed, used straight out of the can, applied w/a powder-puff, & flowed well enough + drying slow enough, that the lines from the edges of the powder-puff blended seamlessly (painted outside, too!). He said he used black (although other colors were available), & it had both shine & gloss. He never mentioned that sanding, cutting, or buffing was needed. I'm sure it wasn't perfect by any means, but was said to look very presentable. I'm guessing it was an enamel, somewhat similar to the stuff Ford & others used up into the 20's->30's? When a running/driving car is only worth $25.00 USD, even in the late 50's-early60's, spending $100.00+ USD on a pro paint job doesn't make much sense, even if you do want a nice looking car.
    I never found out who made it, composition, etc, although I did ask n search - but before the computer era. Had forgotten about it until now.
    If you find something on it, please post findings.
    TIA.
    Marcus...
     
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  12. I see the point Yes and no.
    With a 1 bucket of "cheap" mud and a tube of icing you can have any variation (infinite combo) of mud you want or need at any given time. Sure the batch cost goes up and depends on how much icing goes in. With just 1 bucket of more expensive mud that's all you have unless you add icing to it.

    My latest favorite filler is USC AG47 lightweight grip filler.
    I get it for $105.00 a case so it makes sense. I really like it, and if I need a super slick coat of filler I'll add some USC icing.
     
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  13. If you are using a filler that doesn't self level it's not a great filler period. Good ones should. Like the filler used in the video of the leveling stick, grainy and remains so once spread, cheap filler. Unless you are using way too much product there is no need for a real heavy body to a filler.

    Sent from my SM-G950W using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  14. The sanding pencil stick I want sure would come in handy for little areas like that recess.

    image.jpeg
     
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  15. Recommend one for me, the best one you know of and I'd like to try it.
    Self leveling on a vertical surface sounds like a mess though.
     
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  16. ceege
    Joined: Jul 4, 2017
    Posts: 204

    ceege
    Member
    from NW MT

    Never can get all the shiny gone. Drives me nuts. I haven't had much success with those fiberglass pens.
     
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  17. manyolcars
    Joined: Mar 30, 2001
    Posts: 8,226

    manyolcars

    I want a spray on metal to make the old thin rusty metal thicker (think Model T metal and how thin it is)
    Edit: I'm thinking sheetmetal
     
    Last edited: Dec 23, 2017
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  18. I'm going to try some punch holes slugs of sand paper stuck to a pencil eraser and see if I can do something with that
     
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  19. They have that already.
     
  20. manyolcars
    Joined: Mar 30, 2001
    Posts: 8,226

    manyolcars

    The only spray on I know of takes high temperatures that would warp sheet metal
     
  21. manyolcars
    Joined: Mar 30, 2001
    Posts: 8,226

    manyolcars

    While we are wishing, that heater that frees rusty bolts would be great if we could afford one. I think they are $500
     
  22. ceege
    Joined: Jul 4, 2017
    Posts: 204

    ceege
    Member
    from NW MT

    FUNNY, I almost suggested that, but thought it would be a lot of work to no avail .
     
  23. ceege
    Joined: Jul 4, 2017
    Posts: 204

    ceege
    Member
    from NW MT

    The only thing that satisfies me is sandblasting+epoxy+paint. Not always an option.
     
  24. Look around there's a bunch more.
    There's even a traditional gun that sprays lead.
     
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  25. There's the manufacturer,
    The part number is for 2500 grit
    image.jpeg
     
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  26. ceege
    Joined: Jul 4, 2017
    Posts: 204

    ceege
    Member
    from NW MT

    I harvest the little piece of stainless steel out of old school windshield wiper blades for all kinds of applications. I grind them down to points bend them at angles and can stick sandpaper to them also.
    I use them a lot in releasing wires from modern fuse blocks.
     
  27. ceege
    Joined: Jul 4, 2017
    Posts: 204

    ceege
    Member
    from NW MT

    I have one of those. A friend gave it to me. It was in his welding shop when he bought it. It was used for building up bearing surfaces for re-machining. It's at least 70 years old. has a nice wooden dove tail box with a leather handle. Metco is the brand. I think I aint smart enough to make it work.
    I think they are using zinc in that video.
     
  28. sunbeam
    Joined: Oct 22, 2010
    Posts: 4,716

    sunbeam
    Member

    You forgot panel adhesive
     
  29. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 16,947

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Yup. It comes in 33lb spools, and goes in my MIG welder.
     
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  30. pitman
    Joined: May 14, 2006
    Posts: 4,865

    pitman
    Member
    from Hampsha

    The metalizing guns I worked with are essentially a mig, w/an air blast. They would likely warp steel sheet. Spray zinc can be done cold, but will be the corroding anodic surface matl.
     

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