I think we figured the Fly out!!!!!

Just got through doing a couple of dry hops out beside the shop and I think we have a winner!!!

We pulled the resistor plugs out and replaced them with non-resistor, had the guy unlock the advance plate who overhauled the mag, richened it up a bit on the bottom end and VOILA!!!!!!! !!!!!

Kinda hard to tell but it has never rapped clean like it was supposed to and now the throttle response is great!!!

 

It also keeps the crackheads next door from sleeping in.....

 

alright root!

1st the motor home and bow the fly! you need to go out and buy a lottery ticket.


jerry

 

If my luck will just hold out til the Day of the Drags!!!

 

Root, good for you!
After talking to you at the HAMB drags motel, I knew you would get it dialed in.
Congrats, man!
Jim

 

Thanks Jim, I still have your fuel tank......

 

Rear suspension and differential is mounted.
Going for thr front this next week.
Soon, the 47 will be back on all fours.
Who knows? I may need the tank, again.
Thanks,
Jim

 

Root, I don't know if you posted the specs on the fly anywhere, but I'd like to know what equipment and setup you're running. I'm going to be dialing in my model A drag car pretty soon and I need a starting point. Thanks Dave

 

Glad to hear it Roothawg!
I can't wait to hear how she runs at TDOTD.
Sam.

 

413A, I figured everyone had the specs memorized.

It's a 265 Chevy .060 over, Hilborn injected, Vertex Mag, Crower roller cam, 12.5:1 forged Speed-o-Motive pistons.
Powerglide Shorty with a 1.82 low and a 3500 stall. All of the speed parts are true vintage stuff, the tranny is the only updated parts I used. New stuff has come a long way but I like the old stuff.

Hopefully, I can get a decent time with it so I can see where I am at. Tired of troubleshooting.

 

Thats it ..., now I got to make it back to Austin! Great news Root! "KICK THE TIRES..., and LIGHT THE FIRES!!"

Mark

 

Trust me...I am ready......enuff shakedown runs...on to racing.

 

WoooooHoooooo. I'm ready to see the Dragon FLY baby!!!!

Kick ass Root. Congradulations!

~Monkey~

 

Monkey I was doing dry hops and stalling up the convertor Sunday afternoon!! Had to rattle the crackhead bruthas windows.... It is launching hard.

I am taking it up to a buddies that owns a lumber yard. We are gonna try out the full concrete parking lot!!!! Gotta check out the second gear grab....

 

Root

Is there a track close to where you live where you can do a test and tune?

It's a lot of fun on the slippery concrete but might be a lot safer with a prepped track! Plus you can find out other things at Speed that you won't be able to find in a parking lot... just a thought...

Mark

 

Yeah, we have been to the track 2 other times so this is just a small test n tune. It's brushed concrete, broom finished..

 

good news!

 

Fred, I was hoping you would read this. That may be the smae problem you are having with that other mag motor.

 

the problem i was having, turned out to be the tach adapter, [another issue you and i had discussed], i went back to a mechanical drive tach, presto no problem.and now that i got hilborn talking to me again i am making some headway in that dept.

RACEFAB

 

I may order a new one for the mechanical drive from Joe Hunt. It's just one less hassle.

 

I about ready to fire up my 413. for now it's got carbs on it to dial it in, but will be injected before I race it. It's also got a vertex mag with no advance. Root, when you fire up you motor do you have to get it spinning, then turn on the ignition? I think with 38 degrees of timing when it first turns over would probably knock the motor over backwards instead of starting it. How hard was it to just get it started with the injection? All the guys around here that have messed with that stuff before quit talking to me when I bolted on the 12 spokes with no brakes and told them I want to race it. I need someones brain to pick.... Thanks, Dave

 

I have tried it both ways 413 and it doesn't seem to make any difference. Since we put back the initial 12 degrees and did away with the advance plate, it seems to start easier.

 

Strap me on to the top...I wanna ride!!!

I know what you mean about gettin to hit second. It seems like you complete the cycle then. Glad it's hittin hard brother. I am trying to talk Karl into taking the dragster to the Day of the Drags. I'm ready to suit up and play. We have to mess with one of the valves up top. Not getting the right nitro/alcohol mixture. Last run we ran it was poppin and shakin all over. Monkey's ready to go fast again.

letter rip Root!!!

~Monkey~

 

Channeled413A and Roothawg... there are two factors that play into how well an injected motor with a locked advance curve will start. One is compression. Up to about 12.5:1 they should start fine if there's fuel (point 2). The guys with the 14:1 or 15:1 motors are the ones that need to have the MSD timing retard boxes that are activated with the twist of the starter.... As far as having 14:1 and a mag goes...well, I don't have any experience in that department bacause I've never owned a magneto. In any situation, ignition advance curve principles will tell you that you should have a spring on the advance weights that are light enough to bring the full advance in before you reach the RPM that you launch at (maybe even 500rpm lower) in the old days, I think the push starts eleviated the problem of spinning the motor as they would push the car, the motor would spin up to a reasonable rpm and then they would hit the switch. On my friend's v8-60 powered Kurtis midget, that's the technique they would use. The secong thing that will help an injected motor start without the aid of a squirt bottle is the mounting of the fuel tank. My buddy always had to prime his drag boat with a bottle until the tank got mounted to where the fuel level was above the pump inlet... I'd guess that's why Roothawgs is easy to start, because he has his tank level higher than the pump inlet.
Sam.

 

Roothawg, I'm not following what you're saying when you said you are running 12 degrees initial and did away with the advance plate. I understand that to mean that you removed the advance capabilities from your spark shooter and that would mean that you have only 12 degrees total, right?
Sam.

 

When you lock the plate in you have 36 degrees at idle.
Without the plate it starts coming in around 1500 rpms and maxes out at 36 degrees total.The 12 degrees is built in to the mag.

As far as the tank being higher, it helps but since there is no acc pump you still have to prime it to get it started.

 

So the "spread" is 24 degrees?

And on your priming situation... I'd guess the way that you have the pump, bypass and shut off valves plumbed factors into the need for (or not) for priming. Does your return line from the shut off valve go to the tank? Or recirculate back to the pump? Is your shut off valve before the pump or after the pump? The reason I ask is that I want to learn more about people's set-ups before I do mine. I know quite a few people who run Injection set ups on everything from drag cars, to sprint cars, and from LSR cars to drag boats... all of them always have something different to say about their set ups... and all have success with their systems.

It's not how much we know, but how much we can learn from others.
Sam.

 

Sam and Root, thanks for the insite. I'm going to mount the pump well below the tank, and use all the recomendations from the ramchargers information I've got. Stu Hilborn might have invented his lawn sprinkler, but those guys made it run 9s in a full bodied stocker and still work without trouble. I think I might have a good setup to prime the thing, no matter were the pump is located, for quick starts. I want to try it out though, before I tell anyone what I did(that way they can't tell me it wont work ) I'm not to worried about priming, just getting the settings close to what they need to be to get it to run when I first bolt it on.

I'd say run the shut off after the pump, so you don't run it dry, or make it cavitate when you shut it off. And plumb all the return lines to the tank, so the only way the pump can get fuel is through the sump in the tank. That would for one keep the fuel from recirculating and getting hot, and two, not interfere with the flow in the fuel inlet. If you plumbed the returns into the pump inlet there wouldn't be much flow in the fuel inlet and when the throttle is opened, the pump might again cavitate before it can speed up the fuel in the fuel inlet. I have never done this before, but would like to think I know what I'm doing. So thats mostly therory.

My Mag is locked at full advance, but now that I think about it, I've got low compression, about 10.5 to 1, so starting shouldn't be a problem.

I've got the 413 in my '62 plymouth down to an et of 12.0, And I think this car will be a giant step up from there. Few more days and I can let her roar to life. Dave

 

That's basically the way I have mine setup on the injection part.

Good Luck, I am sure you are getting anxious to hear it run...you gotta make the trek to the 2nd annual HAMB drags.

 

hey ROOT what does the tag list on the mag?, usually this number is the automatic advance built in to the mag, if you have the advance plate unlocked, then you would set your initial at whatever you wanted for full advance minus the automatic

example- tag says 24 degrees, you want 36 degrees total you would set static at 12 degrees

RACEFAB