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Hot Rods I need some advice please

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by brady1929, Dec 6, 2017.

  1. brady1929
    Joined: Sep 30, 2006
    Posts: 8,500

    brady1929
    Member

    Hello,
    I need to get surface rust off some delicate parts. And some areas are hard to get to. Example, 32 grill shell, package tray, metal header panel, ect. I am having a real rough time removing the rust. I was quoted $100 just to have the grill shell blasted. I feel like I should know the answer but I don't.

    Please help with ideas, pictures would also be helpful. Thanks.
     
  2. R Pope
    Joined: Jan 23, 2006
    Posts: 3,309

    R Pope
    Member

    Iodine works on rusted cylinder walls, never tried it on tin.
     
  3. khead47
    Joined: Mar 29, 2010
    Posts: 1,737

    khead47
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Molasses bath.
     
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  4. I like to soak it in cider
     
    sidevalve8ba and Jugornot like this.

  5. Hmmmm I feel your pain...although I don’t have too many solutions for you, know that I sympathise with your predicament.

    Your header panel should unscrew ? Sand it by hand ? Same with your grille?

    I tried a vinegar solution with mixed results, but it was cheap and easy. 50/50 mix white vinegar to water. Media blasting, or hand sanding might be your only choices, but I’m hoping others will chime in with success stories.


    Sent from my iPad using H.A.M.B.
     
  6. Hot Rods Ta Hell
    Joined: Apr 20, 2008
    Posts: 4,153

    Hot Rods Ta Hell
    Member

    Were you quoted $100 just for the grille shell or is because they have a $100 minimum? Some shops are so busy with work, they don't want to be bothered with small jobs.
    At $100, just for the shell, I'd be placing the $100 towards a small blast cabinet if you have room for it, or do it on your property if you have the yard space.
    Or find a local rodder that will do your blasting at his garage for a better price.
     
  7. Citric acid.
     
    stanlow69 likes this.
  8. I have a small blaster from Sears that I have used on small stuff. However, I had a below decklid panel off a 33-34 that was new but set around and got surface rust on it (all over). I laid paper towels on it and soaked them with concentrated lemon juice and let it sit for a couple of hours. Hosed it off and it look new again. A friend used this method to soak a '32 door lock Took three days but removed all the old rust!!
     
  9. I know I'm real Old so this may sound stupid but doesn't anyone hand sand anymore? I know they started making this stuff called Scotch Bright a while back. I have used some of that in lou of sandpaper for on some stuff. It was almost like polishing the paint off. Worked real good for me. Have you ever body worked after Sand Blasting? Being my 57 was going Black I did this complete car with Scotch Bright.
    1-22-09 001.jpg
    Here is is after new paint. Believe me, it was worth a little extra time.
    3rd time home 6-19-03 001.jpg Grill shell, package tray, header; Heck you wouldn't even brake a sweat and your $$$$ is still in your pocket.
    The Wizzard
     
  10. Man,if you were closer we would through the parts in my bead blasting cabinet and it wouldn't cost you a dime. HRP
     
  11. White vinegar with a small wire brush will do wonders on light rust. Less than $4.00 a gallon. Wash and neutralize with soda and water.
     
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  12. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 47,531

    squirrel
    Member

    If you're having a real tough time removing the rust, then it's probably a bit deeper than what we normally call "surface rust".

    Call a few different automotive machine shops, see if you can find one that wants to do some bead blasting for a reasonable price. Or spend a couple grand on a nice blast cabinet, then go into business doing other guys' stuff to pay for it.

    http://www.tptools.com/Most-Popular-Skat-Blast-Cabinets.html
     
    31Vicky with a hemi likes this.
  13. 26Troadster
    Joined: Nov 20, 2010
    Posts: 590

    26Troadster
    Member
    from Texas

    pat59 likes this.
  14. indyjps
    Joined: Feb 21, 2007
    Posts: 4,037

    indyjps
    Member

    Oxalic acid, wood bleach, does a great job of derusting, a little milder than vinegar, and very inexpensive.

    With any liquid treatment, You still need to brush / scrub the surface, needs to be accessible.
     
  15. Happydaze
    Joined: Aug 21, 2009
    Posts: 1,057

    Happydaze
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Metal Prep from Industrial Metal Supply. It has phosphoric acid in it I think. I squirt it on and rub with scotchbrite. Only really works for light surface rust though, but leaves a protected finish. Anything heavier and the strippit type discs make short work of it (especially the ones that fit to an angle grinder) but create a lot of dust. My blast cabinet isn't necessarily always in service. I've never tried any of the immersion techniques!

    Chris
     
    pitman likes this.
  16. I have used white vinegar. Works great but you have to neutralize it immediately after removing from the vinegar as it will start flash rusting within minutes of coming out if you don't.
     
  17. Fitty Toomuch
    Joined: Jun 29, 2010
    Posts: 239

    Fitty Toomuch
    Member
    from WVa

    I`ve used finishing pads, same as scotch bright, grey color= 0000 steel wool, with brasso polish.
    requires a little elbow grease, works good.
     
  18. Another vote for a molasses bath. About as cheap as you can get and it really works well on rusted sheet metal. Drawback is its slow, but it comes out looking like it never had rust once you clean it. And it doesn' t flash rust like when you use vinegar.
     
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  19. brady1929
    Joined: Sep 30, 2006
    Posts: 8,500

    brady1929
    Member

    Thanks for all the answers. It is more than just surface rust. Where does a guy find that much molasses?
     
  20. 51504bat
    Joined: May 22, 2010
    Posts: 2,442

    51504bat
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Tractor Supply
     
  21. miky2001
    Joined: Nov 9, 2006
    Posts: 899

    miky2001
    Member
    from houston

    electrolysis works too
     
  22. lostone
    Joined: Oct 13, 2013
    Posts: 1,480

    lostone
    Member
    from kansas

    +1 on the black strap molasses, mix it 7 parts water to 1 part black strap. Soak it a week, pull it out, rinse with water and your done. No harsh chemicals, eats only rust and nothing else. Dump it just about anywhere as it's non harmful to environment.

    Seen a complete model a done this way, I was totally amazed. The wire wheels were spotless and no rust, even the crevices were spotless.
     
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  23. evintho
    Joined: May 28, 2007
    Posts: 1,612

    evintho
    Member

    Try Crosby Farm and Ranch Supply or Tempe Feed. Most large animal feed stores carry feed grade molasses. It's usually around $2 to $3 per gallon. Mix it 7 parts water to 1 part molasses. Find an old kiddie pool, fill it up with the mixture, dump your parts in there, cover it with a piece of plywood and wait a few days. Pull the parts, hose 'em off and you'll have near virgin metal!
    Here's my write-up on the process.....................
    https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/rust-removal-the-miracle-of-molasses.557996/
     
    Last edited: Dec 6, 2017
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  24. classiccarjack
    Joined: Jun 30, 2009
    Posts: 1,458

    classiccarjack
    Member

    Hmmmmm.

    Sent from my XT1585 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  25. brady1929
    Joined: Sep 30, 2006
    Posts: 8,500

    brady1929
    Member

    Thanks. That just might work.
     
  26. jailbar joe
    Joined: Nov 21, 2014
    Posts: 362

    jailbar joe
    Member

    did a complete truck cab in mollasses and worked great......since then i have done many panels in citric acid and have found it far better,quicker and no smell....will not hesitate do do the same in future....oh yeah...and cheap
     
  27. nonipshere
    Joined: Feb 20, 2012
    Posts: 121

    nonipshere
    Member

    Phosphoric acid. Get it from Home Depot. It’s green in color. Spread it on buy brush and let it sit for a day or two. Power wire brush it and sand. Repeat the steps as needed as long as the rust isn’t too heavy.


    Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
     
  28. ClarkH
    Joined: Jul 21, 2010
    Posts: 996

    ClarkH
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Yup, that's the way. Get it at the feed store, mix 7-1. For a container, I just hammer together a perimter out of old 2x8s and then lay a blue tarp over it and fill it up. And yes, cover it--keeps the racoons out.
     
  29. Totes make good molasses tanks, too. Cover keeps water & critters out and the smell in.
     
  30. 49clubcoupe
    Joined: Nov 5, 2013
    Posts: 88

    49clubcoupe
    Member
    from idaho

    Evaporust is the best product I have used. I like it so much I buy it by the 3g jug now. The only down side to Evaporust that I have seen is if you forget about your piece submerged say for a week or two it leaves a black coating on the item that is hard to remove. I use it on delicate stuff constantly, never disappointed with the results.

    Sent from my VS835 using Tapatalk
     

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