Any trouble with that master craft set’s pump. My unit quit pumping, it’s really nice, does some neat stuff, usually need both hands and 1 extra finger though, I need to get it fixed.
@31Vicky with a hemi, no problems with mine after about 15 years of occasional use. I got myself a $20 ebay wire crimper, great for battery cables, but have made a mental note to try repurposing the crimper pump to the Mastercool flare should the unthinkable happen! They're basically identical in the pumping department, how couldn't they be? Chris Chris
I've had those good old steel lines rust out in less than a year around here. These new steel lines are garbage now, I call it China steel. I use the Nicole copper line on everything never comes back which makes happy customers.
I bought the Eastwood version of the Straightener and the Flare Tool back in 2018 or 2019. Absolutely love them. They were a game changer to say the least. Couldn't be happier.
Yep. Brakes are planned out. Got parts coming. It all makes sense now. I’ve been practicing flaring and bending with my copper tubing while I wait for the Nicopp brake lines and other parts.
I know its often hard to justify buying some of these tools and ponying up the money..........but like you, I couldn't be happier with the results. With the different flare types there is a little learning curve, but there is also a since of pride in having really good results. To me, I don't care if anyone else ever sees them, I just know they are done right...........however, poorly done work always seems to stand out somewhere when done.
That master has holes on both sides to make it more universal. Some cars have the brake lines on the inside and some do not. Plug your brake lines in where they work best and plug the others. The splitter is called a T. Too simple right? The residual valves go to the drum brakes. Usually the proportioning valve also goes to the rear brakes. The lower to ground and the less California Rake that you have the least need for proportioning. Perhaps better said the least front to rear brake bias is needed. When you get it installed fine a straight stretch of road that is pretty much deserted, get her tolling good and lock it up. Keep playing with the proportioning with the proportioning valve until you get the desired feel. I like my rears to just almost lock up but some guys like them to lock up for example.
There's some great info here. Can I jump in for some advice? My coupe has 40s Ford juice brakes in the front, 57-60 Pontiac drums in the rear with a 60-62 Chevy truck master cylinder. The Chevy ran 1/4" lines, I believe. That's what I was planning. However, I haven't given it all much thought or planned it other than looking what the C10s ran. What say you all?
I like the bubble flares, 1 step and your done but the older stuff you use the double flares, wish I had one of the hyd flaring tools, I just have an old snap on deal.
Practicing on copper tubing may be a waste of time. Steel is going to flare a lot different than copper did.
The factory engineers did it a certain way for their specific reasons. I’d say generally you can’t go wrong by putting back what they did. There could be some sound design requirements and engineering behind it. It could’ve been the 1/4” line mass production was better, survival rate of forming was higher, making 1/4” fittings was easier, it could be the required line pressures. 1/4 lines are more robust and easier to install ( by one guy on a moving line on a bare chassis) being more robust means they probably stored, shipped and unpacked better.
Update and one more question. I have the rear all plumbed but I’m stumped on the front. Well, not stumped except for I really want to use a stock style Tee fitting on the front with a banjo bolt directly into the left front soft line (like stock). However, I can’t find this Tee fitting with a 3/16 tube size (I can find 1/4” Tube size). The photo below shows a generic Tee fitting I have along side the stock fitting with banjo bolt. I Don t like the generic because then I have to run a hard line from the soft line to the Tee fitting and it just doesn’t seem very clean and it’s one more line that I feel is unnecessary. A banjo Tee fitting would be so much better. Does anyone know where I can find a banjo fitting like this that works with the 3/16 line? Part number?
These are for sale in HAMB parts: https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/nos-brake-light-switches.1285253/
The problem you are going to have with trying to mate a banjo style fitting to the end of that brake hose is the brake hose end surface isn't machined for it and would be prone to leakage. The inverted flare seat is the sealing surface that was machined for sealing. Plus even if you found a banjo bolt with the right threads the bolt may bottom out before holding the fitting to seal up. You could always soften the edges of the "generic" tee to make it look less blockish. And yes, this would require an extra line.
what just got me was the older style sykes pickavant non turret type flarer and the modern turret type and if you do get the 3/16 line for 3/8 the later style is two on a spinning turret rather than one piece that you flip if you did just go and buy the older style, its impossible to find new dies......... is the usa sae double flare 45 dgrees as stated above. does the SAE and 45 degrees indicate american brake fittings? so - is the one stage 'convex' sae OP1 operation 1 for if you like post 1978 metric chevy? so If I want to use a 24mm metric chevrolet aluminium brake master i simply need to go from m11 master ports to to the combination valve sae double flare inch with 3/16 brake line.
oh and what are the part numbers for the different bore rear wheel cylinders that FIT 10'' ford brakes - how many different sized bores will actually fit them or what part number do i need on my rear wheel cylinders running 78 metric stock front calipers, a combo valve, 24/5mm brake master and 10 by 2'' shoes
Dorman makes 1/4" to 3/16" adapter fittings for brake lines. https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-785434-16-Brake-Adapter/dp/B004IYVJ7C
The technology for making brake tubing was not good enough to make 3/16" tubing. 1/4" tubing was never needed, for pressure or flow. It was just easier to make. Plus, a whole lot of cars had 1/4" fuel lines, too.
For the fitting on the master cylinder you may be able to find someone on the 67-72 Chevy Truck forum who is getting rid of their original stuff.
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