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I need a Brake Drum Puller for pre 64 Mopar

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by TooMany2count, Aug 22, 2007.

  1. Just like the title says, I need a Brake Drum Puller for a pre 1964 mopar product. Does anyone have one that they'd let me borrow??? I have asked around at some of the parts places & for the most part I get a dead silents when I tell them what I need & what kinda car I'm working on or they just say "NO".....thanks...joe


    it looks like this
    [​IMG]
     
  2. JOECOOL
    Joined: Jan 13, 2004
    Posts: 2,760

    JOECOOL
    Member

    I don't have one anymore but if your car is moveable you can just losen the nut a few turns and drive or tow it around some corners ,That used to work. Best of luck.
     
  3. BigBlockMopar
    Joined: Feb 4, 2006
    Posts: 1,360

    BigBlockMopar
    Member

    If you're in a hurry you could knock back the studs about 3/8" which will loosen the drum from the hub, which in turn will remain on the axle.
     
  4. mikeys toy
    Joined: Jan 8, 2007
    Posts: 77

    mikeys toy
    Member
    from jOklahoma

    or if it's really old; just grind the rivets off...
     

  5. Bruce Lancaster
    Joined: Oct 9, 2001
    Posts: 21,682

    Bruce Lancaster
    Member Emeritus

    Ask around...that basic puller is still available ($$$), and used to be as common as dirt. If you ask at a couple of the oldest garages in town, someone will have one in the corner. Improvisation is unlikely to get the hub off...they are usually reallydamntight.
     
  6. metalman
    Joined: Dec 30, 2006
    Posts: 3,284

    metalman
    Member

    My Dad bought one back in the early 60's to get the hubs off his 60 Dodge, I still have it (work good on stuck early Fords too). Little far to borrow I'm afraid.
     
  7. JOECOOL, cant move it because it already 1/2 taken apart & on jackstands..

    BigBlockMopar & mikeys toy, I need to pull the axle & to do that the drum has to come off. The axle has a taper on it w/the drum wedged on it.

    Bruce I wish there were some old garages around here but they are GONEEEEE & these young guys have haven't got a clue what I'm talking about.

    I think I found something that will work but it's used w/a slide hammer. All I need to do is check to be sure the lug pattern will fit on to the tool.
    I haven't given up yet so I'll keep looking.

    The crazy part is for what my brother paid for the parts to fix the rear axle I told him I could of put a later model rearend under his car. But NOOOOOOO, he want it to stay stock. OO well it just means he'll pay me more $$$ each time I work on it....thanks folks...joe
     


  8. Can I borrow it if what I have won't work??? I'll pay for the shipping cost to get it here...joe
     
  9. pasadenahotrod
    Joined: Feb 13, 2007
    Posts: 11,776

    pasadenahotrod
    Member
    from Texas

    Same puller used for removing early Ford rear drum/hub assemblies. Check with some early Ford A or V8 guys in your area!
     
  10. Squablow
    Joined: Apr 26, 2005
    Posts: 15,124

    Squablow
    Member

    We tried that puller on my '55 Dodge. Tried the slide hammer, then tried an impact wrench on it to hammer on that center stud/nut thing that comes out of the middle of the puller. Stripped a few studs off, didn't budge the drum.

    There's gotta be a trick to it. I'm gonna try the loose nut/rolling method next.
     
  11. Make one.

    The pics will give you an idea.

    Just to give you an idea of the forces involved, this puller also takes an 8 ton bottle jack and that wouldn't budge the drums on my 50 Plymouth coupe.

    Went to a 1" x NF bolt and after getting some tension on it, a little heat applied to the hub popped it loose.

    Granted, the pic shows bolts through the wheel flange adapter - taking the place of the lugbolts - but if you have lug studs you can use a coupling nut and some shorter bolts through the wheel flange adapter.

    The last pic shows all the extra pieces that go with the puller.

    The crossbar is 2" x 2" x .250 wall.
    At full tension - which was a heckuva lot, applied with a 3/4" socket and breaker bar with snipe - the crossbar only deflected a few thousandth's.


    I would not be above buying one of the bigger cheap-o three leg pullers from Harbor Freight and welding some adapters onto the legs to adapt it to the wheel.

    Be sure you put the retaining nut on upside down so you don't spread the theaded end with the pointy end of the puller.

    That a little heat will do it....
     

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  12. curtiswyant
    Joined: Feb 6, 2005
    Posts: 461

    curtiswyant
    Member

    I got a front hub puller at Autozone for about $20. It works perfectly, but it is not listed as a "brake drum puller." Here's the listing from Autozone.com:

    [​IMG]
    Great Neck / Flange Axle FWD Puller, #27037
     
  13. curtiswyant
    Joined: Feb 6, 2005
    Posts: 461

    curtiswyant
    Member

    Oh and another tip when removing the drum, make sure the spindle nut is still threaded on a little bit when you're getting ready to pop the drum off, otherwise it will shoot across the room! Trust me, when those old drums come off they go BOOM! :D
     
  14. rjgideon
    Joined: Sep 12, 2005
    Posts: 544

    rjgideon
    Member

    I used this same type of tool for my '64 Newport rear drum once. I bought it off ebay for $20, but it's the exact same thing. Be sure to back off the shoes (if they're not rusted to the drum) before pulling the drum.
     
  15. BigBlockMopar
    Joined: Feb 4, 2006
    Posts: 1,360

    BigBlockMopar
    Member


    I know all about these axles, I've got 3 of them in the corner of my garage ;)
    About the slide-hammer tool... won't work. Don't even bother.

    After you've knocked the studs back and the drum comes of, you can loosen the axle-retainerplate-bolts with a regular wrench and THEN use the slide-puller to knock the axle loose from the carrier.
     
  16. 1oldtimer
    Joined: Aug 21, 2003
    Posts: 8,018

    1oldtimer
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    if all else fails i have one from matco, kinda heavy and i'm on the other coast.
     

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  17. Gr8ballsofir
    Joined: Apr 21, 2001
    Posts: 768

    Gr8ballsofir
    Member

    The Matco type is the one you want. If the Autozone one has a tapered point on the end it will split the spindle!!
     
  18. Big_John
    Joined: Mar 28, 2006
    Posts: 333

    Big_John
    Member
    from Upstate NY

    I have one you can borrow.

    PM me your address.
     



  19. nope won't work on this one, I finally found one like that one only to almost stripped the threads out of it :eek: :eek: trying to get the drum off. That damn drum is stuck on that axle. I even tried to shock it by hitting the end on the tool w/my 3 pound hammer, no go. I wanted to pull the 3rd member to see what kinda damage my brother had done by running it really low on grease, it was howling. I decided to pull the yoke off along w/the seal to check the front bearing. Well need less to say the bearing was about this color blue rather then the shiney silver it should of been & had what looked like ringworm :eek: :rolleyes:. In my option the rearend is junk so I'm going to put a later model one in it, which I told my brother I should of done a year ago when he paid $75 for a bearing & seal :eek: . Thanks for the advice & the offer on lending me tools....joe



    wouldnt work on this rearend, the hub is on the outside of the drum.
    must be because it a 39 Dodge
     
  20. A guy on Forwardlook.net or on their email list sells some made specifically for these cars, I think around $120 but worth every penny. They'll pull drums off even with the shoes rusted in.
     
  21. As noted above, once you get some tension on the hub a very minor amount of heat works wonders....
     
  22. Ramblur
    Joined: Jun 15, 2005
    Posts: 2,101

    Ramblur
    Member

    I just got this one recently. Popped the hubs off my Hudson in
    short order. The spindly looking handle is actually a hydraulic ram.
    I was really amazed it worked so well. Available at your local
    Chinese tool store. Not sure what you call it but the label has a
    pic of some anteater looking creature and the word "Snark".:confused:

    [​IMG]
     
  23. after seeing the yoke bearing that turned about this color and having marks all over the bearing I would bet the rearend is most likely junk. I'm going to look into just swapping the rearend out w/a later model one.. thanks again folks for the tips & offer of tools...joe
     
  24. 4tford
    Joined: Aug 27, 2005
    Posts: 1,757

    4tford
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    You right in swapping for a later axle housing. Use a 1965 to 1967 B body housing it bolts right in and you gain about an 1 3/8 inch tire clearence. The 64 and earlier axle are 60 7/8 inches drum to drum and the the 65 to 67 axle housings are 59 1/2 drum to drum. All have 44 inch center to center spring perch.
     
  25. stealthcruiser
    Joined: Dec 24, 2002
    Posts: 3,748

    stealthcruiser
    Member

    4tford,

    I have an old Mopar,(58 Dodge wagon),and do not know the letter variations on the different models.

    What's a "B" body?
     

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