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I HATE BRAKES!!!!!!! 54 chevy dual master help

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by dirtbag54, Apr 2, 2009.

  1. does any one know how far the piston or plunger in the master that comes with the national chevy association swap for 54 chevy moves...its a corvette style master. i cant push the pedal very far then it seems like it hits a positive stop mechanically..like it bottoms out the master but its only moving an 1" and a 1/8 at the master ..not the pedal...i have no breaks....help....
     
  2. still no brakes...............
     
  3. show me shaker
    Joined: Jan 26, 2008
    Posts: 3

    show me shaker
    Member

    asuming u have the right rod length from pedal to cyl did u bleed master cyl then closest wheel cyl following ur brake lines then next closest and then and so on and then repeat? love my 54 hope to see urs on the street somewere soon good luck.
     
  4. tried the search no luck i have it installed properly...im guessing the master is bad if someone can tell me how far in inches the piston can travel in the master i will know if its bad or not...thanks....
     

  5. chopped
    Joined: Dec 9, 2004
    Posts: 2,139

    chopped
    Member

    When I bench bleed I pay attention to how far the piston goes in, you may have to do the bench thing again.
     
  6. Well it aught to move in at least an inch. I can't remember, it's been too long since I bench bled one. Tried asking NCA about it?
     
  7. Re: I HATE BRAKES!!!!!!!

    Me Too - as we used to say when we Raced flat Track - Brakes are for Pussies
     
  8. Ranunculous
    Joined: Nov 30, 2007
    Posts: 2,465

    Ranunculous
    Member

    According to the paperwork with the problematic MC and the good ol' Made In USA MC we've been working with,the plunger moves into the chamber approximately an inch.
    Perhaps ECIGUY would be a good person to ask.His help (and others) was invaluable on our recent brake chaos.

    Bleed,bleed and then bleed the lines some more for air.It's amazing how much hides in the high points of the lines...

    Good luck! Nothing tests your patience like brake problems!
     
  9. Retro Jim
    Joined: May 27, 2007
    Posts: 3,854

    Retro Jim
    Member

    Brakes are not that bad . You start with the master cylinder and go from there . I would take the master cylinder and put in a vise and fill it then open the bleeders . Remember to put a can under the MS to catch the brake fluid . I would then start my brake work . After about 15-20 min the brake fluid would be dripping from the master cylinder . Once the fluid was dripping I would close the bleeders . Never did the bench bleed any other way and works great . After the MS was installed and the brake shoes were adjusted I would do the system bleed of air in the line . I would flush the lines out first to get all NEW fluid into the brake system . I would start with the R/R wheel cylinder first , then the L/R , then the R/F , then the L/F and making sure the Master cylinder was always full ! If you have no pedal then you have a bad MS or a leaking brake line .
    Now was that hard . If you have no brakes then you did something wrong . If you have anymore question send me a PM .
     
  10. i called NSA today turns out they have discontinued the set up they sold me for a few different reasons..one is cost one is problems with the system....everyones set up is different......disc disc ,drum disc,durm drum...bore of your wheel cylinders etc..depending on your set up . dictates how it works for you mine did not...work. plus even if it did its kind of a hokey setup anyway not knocking the guys that have had luck with it..its just not for me..after much frustration and cursing i called eciguy, problem solved he knows what he is talking about ,and has a much cleaner set up that works....thanks ralph
     

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