So, I sold the Dodge Bros roadster and kept looking and finally found this 30 coupe body. It's pretty solid but the rear quarters need lotsa work. And the deck lid skin is full of bondo, but it's a start. We off loaded it on Sunday and I threw the block in the frame to mock it up. Looks like the frame/body are going to take some massaging to mate together nicely and I'm open for advice on how to do it properly. I set up the frame for a 32 body, but just couldn't convince myself to buy a glass body. So I may end up tearing the frame completely down and starting over. I'm going to think about this before I start cutting. Any info on previous threads doing this would be great. Thanks, Ralph
Ha! That's going to be awesome man. A's on deuce frames are just a plain ol' no brainer and yours is just further evidence. Ionia built my frame which I have had for over a year now and just 6 months ago I found my '32 body to start working on. The amount of work that I have to do on that body makes me think I should go with a model a all the time. Good luck and keep us posted!
I'm going to start adapting my 31 coupe body to my 32 frame in a week or so. Plan to post some pictures when the job is done. My frame was built by Gary Maxwell at Blackboard Hotrods "pinched" for the "A" body. Recent article in "STREET RODDER" about pulling a built 32 frame to take a Model A body.
Thanks, I built this frame a year and a half ago and went by the 32 bluebrints, but I modified it by adding a model a front crossmember and a 1940 rear crossmember that I flattened like Ionia does. I'm hoping that once I get the body set down on it I won't have to change the suspension much to make it look good.
Ralph,nice to see the chassis all together. It was March '07 when you bought the rails. Time flyz doesn't it? You can put that body on a stock 32 spec frame. (bob off the rear horns) Nothing needs to be changed on the suspension. I'm going to send you a email. eriC
Dont worry about the frame, it will work fine. They were putting a's on stock 32 frames long before a lot of use were born. When I do one there are small tweaks I do, but I seem to leave the rear horns on about 1/2 of them for using the stock deuce tank. That requires some body modification on the below deck panel and body cross channel, nothing major but an alternative to putting the tank in the trunk.
Did I read right, '32 frame built to '32 specs? Doesn't need pinching at the cowl to look right with an A body on it?
Eric, Yea, I didn't get started on the frame till the summer of 08, and then I spent the winter doing the suspension. Sad to say I didn't get any thing done on it this summer because I was doing some house remodeling. I've got a couple projects to knock out this month, but come Jan I'm starting back on this one. Maybe I can get it driveable before our short summer is over. I would love to mod the body without doing too much to the frame if possible, although I think I will bob the rear frame rails and put a tank in the trunk. The only A body I've seen that looked good with a 32 tank was a full fendered one with a highly modified frame.
In the beginning, they didn't modify the '32 frames at all. Just cut the rear subrails to lower the rear of the body over the kickup portion of the '32 frame. Just rework the subrails in the rear and make up some body mounts...it will be dialed. The idea of pinching up a '32 frame to improve looks came in the 70's, with Magoo and others - who brought the idea of a '29 on '32 rails to the street rod crowd.
Many good threads on doing this on the hamb. I have done it twice myself. I have found that if you narrow the 32 frame rails about 3/4 inch per side at the rear (1 1/2 inches total)the 30/31 coupe body will closely mimic the 32 5 window body where it sits on the frame.You will need to trim away about 1/2 of the subrails where the 32 frame rises over rear axle. Cowl area forward of frame remains stock. The longer wheel base 32 frame also allows most engines room without cutting firewall. You will need to do a little metal removal/modification where the front body bolt is to allow front of body to drop down. Search "model A 32 frame" here on the hamb and it should turn up hours of reading. Many different ways to do it and all methods are very uncomplicated. You can even run with full 32 fenders and running boards with a bit of fitment teaking at the rear fender area. Steve
I agree, if you go to Gasserkids thread on our hghboy project we did not pinch the frame, going for a 60's look. built the frame to 32 specs and yes the bottom of the cowlng sets in about and inch from the outer most part of the frame.
Narrow the frame to the A-V8 specs and drop the body over the rails like the duece would be. This is how I did mine; http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=409232
bilthx138 I saw your thread, that really came out nice, I like the way you did the floor especially. I hope mine comes out half that nice. Ralph
Mecutem, The black one is sharp, I see you smoothed out the body joints along side the rear window, was that hard to do?
No reason to change the frame. It's all fully welded now right? Some good pic's here of Bass' work. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=419350
Ralph smoothing the rear seam is easy. I chopped this body and used a vega wagon roof section. Just took a little more time to grind the insert down and weld the seam where the sides meet the middle section. Steve
Yes the frame is all welded, I looked at Bubba's coupe pics, nice, but I didn't see how he filled in the gap between the cowl panel and the firewall once it was moved out. I prefer to go the way he did rather than pinching the frame. Nice chop too, but why the complicated cut VS a straight cut on the chop, strength? Steve, I'm going to keep the roof opening and put the original soft top in, but the seam smoothing was sure a nice touch. This is what the frame looked like before I set the body on.
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