Hot Rods Hydraulic clutch

Getting the linkage to my clutch to work properly is just about an impossibility. Getting good alignment is extremely hard. I was thinking about getting a hydraulic clutch kit from Speedway or somewhere. The thing is the clutch disengages pretty hard. I consider myself an almost average strength male and I can't disengage it by pulling on the three inches or so of the "lever" that sticks out of the housing. Since it is the only standard shift vehicle I have on the place I don't have much to compare it to. Anyway, I guess my question is, will one of the 3/4 inch bore master and slave cylinders operate a tough disengaging clutch?

 

That is normal to not be able to move the clutch fork with your hand. Your leg is much stronger and when you add the multiplication of the pedal ratio (probably 6:1) you have a huge mechanic advantage. A hydraulic clutch will work but you should buy the highest quality parts or you will hate yourself. I would much rather use mechanical linkage if at all possible. If you run Hydraulic NEVER use D.O.T. 5 brake fluid in it. You will be sure to have a failure if you do. Post a picture of the area you can't fit it in and we will see if we can help.

 

If you are strong enough to disengage the clutch by pulling on the lever with just arm strength, please don't ever punch me!

 

Good to know that they all pull hard. I am going to make another effort to fabricate mechanical linkage.

 

Pedal through the floor or hanging from the dash ?

 

Dont know what chassis your working with ,but several guys here have done cable clutches using I believe subaru clutch cable.Theres some bracket fabing,but for under floor pedals its pretty straight forward.If this would work for you do a search here for posts that will have pictures included.

 

I used a shortened 5.0 Mustang cable. It's super simple to set up and at this point I have about 9,500 trouble free miles on it.
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/tech-clutch-cable-installation-w-pics.210569/

 

^^^^ That's pretty slick.

 

Same here.. I got the cable from Brizio's.

 

I have used the Brizio cable on several customer chassis with good results.

 

This is so obvious, I never thought of it. Thanks! Gonna try it.

 

dont go cheap on the parts. i prefer Mcloud products for the throw out bearing. they have alot of cool features to them. use a hydraulic cylinder from wilwood with the largest bore they make. this will move the most fluid for a good pedal feel. ussually around 1 7/8.

 

Does it matter if the clutch cable is a little long? Ordered a standard Mustang cable and it could be a foot shorter, but since I have room for it, is that a problem? Seems like if it is extra long the bend can be smoother.

 

I would think as long as it fits,and you have enough adjustment to suit your needs its all good.

 

If leaving the cable long, you may want to add a support or two, to anchor the center of the loop. Some support would help control flexing, that could alter cable adjustment/throw.

 

What is the issue with dot5?

 

I agree with this. Think about a bicycle shifter or brake cable – when they're not securely anchored, the housing moves some resulting in less travel in the cable. Also, the longer the cable, the more it can stretch.

 

For some reason the hydraulic clutch release bearings that are inside the bell housing fail and leak in a very short time after using DOT 5 brake fluid. The external slave cylinders seem to be a bit more tolerant to it but also have shorter lives. I think it has to do with the rubber composition.

 

They don't seem to like it.

 

I use hi-temp Wilwood fluid in mine and they said it was fine...

 

I run a hydraulic clutch in my Ford, 3/4" Wilwood master and Speedway 7/8" slave. I made up a steel plate for the firewall that locates the brake and clutch masters. The OG firewall had too much flex to it. I used the stock pedal location and a rod with heim ends.

I had previously made it too complicated, took about 3 weekends to go back to the simplest configuration with it.

 

I have a hyd clutch with internal slave cylinder. Sometimes it gets alot of free play; with or with out losing fluid meaning clutch won't disengage. Adding fluid with some judicial clutch pumping makes the free play normal again. Is there an additive that will restore the "seals" like for engines? How about https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002JMLW4/ref=sw_img_1?smid=A2ZT1VQQVBCCO7&psc=1

 

Hydraulic clutch ehh? Sounds shifty. He he.

 

Mine has a small leak somewhere, looks like the slave. I lost feel in the pedal when It was low on fluid, added some and it felt normal. Has not leaked much since. I just added fluid, did not have to bleed it.

 

The ONLY way I'd ever do hydraulic is with an external slave !

 

Like the man says.

 

My other car has a external hyd slave and has been doing fine for over 25 years [25k miles] but question is will a stop leak hyd additive work? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002JMLW4?tag=namespacebran246-20&psc=1

 

Update: Got a similar to the above lucas Hyd Stop Leak locally. Topped MC off and put about 10 miles on after pump up, on or about June 1st. Used today and did not have to pump up, leak seems to be fixed.