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Hydraulic clutch set up. Advice please.

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Paul Y, Aug 20, 2008.

  1. Koz
    Joined: May 5, 2008
    Posts: 2,707

    Koz
    Member

    I use a Wilwood 1" master cylinder and a speedway 1" bore push cylinder. With 1/6 ratio overhead pedal the clutch is effortless and very smooth. My only complaint is that much like power steering I feel it lacks the same feel as a mechanical unit. Just does'nt feel quite right. Over the winter I'm going to fab up a serious rod end mechanical linkage just to get the feel back. Any thoughts on this?
     
  2. fstfish66
    Joined: May 28, 2005
    Posts: 376

    fstfish66
    Member
    from eastern pa

    well im waiting on another master from speed way,with a longer stroke,
    currently i have a new puller slave 3/4 bore and a master with 3/4 bore ,master only has 1 3/32 stroke,and the slave is capable of 1 1/8 inch travel,, pedal is really hard towards the bottom of the stroke,,and the slave only moves 7/8 total,,it is enough to release the pressure plate,but not till its almmost to the floor,, the master push rod is mounted to the ledal 2 1/2 inches down from the pedal pivot,,im waiting on a master designed for hyd clutches wit ha 1 .400 stroke,, after a conversation with CNC they told me there slave works best with a master of 3/4 bore and 1 .5 travel,,i figure the 1.400 is close enough,ill know buy the middle of the weeek,,,trying to get ready for good guys at pocono PA,,

    as far as the linkage,,i may go that route if im not happy with the new set up,,ide have to fab up all of it,i have big tube headers in the way of factory linkage,, but it looks doable,,

    i was thinking of using a clevis on the rod off of the pedal to the Z-BAR
    that would give me more clearance near the header tubes in the engine bay,,thats the easy part, the lower part or the linkage from the Z-BAR to the fork would be the brain fryer,,

    any ones thoughts on linkage,,this is on a smal block mopar,,with tight engine bay clearance and not a lot of room down below,
     
  3. neilswheels
    Joined: Aug 26, 2006
    Posts: 1,213

    neilswheels
    Member
    from England

    Hey Paul, did you get this sorted? I'm looking at a similar deal in my 40 with a T5, and after looking at trying to do it mechanically, Ive decided hydraulic is my best bet.
     
  4. fortynut
    Joined: Jul 16, 2008
    Posts: 1,038

    fortynut
    Member

    Several years ago I bought a 292 ci Inliner 6 sourced from a UPS package car that came with a bell-housing with the aforementioned passenger side hydraulic slave cylinder set-up. When I sold it, I bagged it to use for the same purpose as others in adding a hydraulic clutch system (with a small-block) to one of my projects. SO YES, THESE PIECES ARE OUT THERE, and make installation a damn sight easier for the hard-parts impaired. ALSO, nice to see Novak mentioned, as they make some nice parts and for the rock-crawler wanna-be in us all, and offer some tasty stuff.
     
  5. scrap metal 48
    Joined: Sep 6, 2009
    Posts: 6,079

    scrap metal 48
    Member

    I'd go to a junk yard and get a complete set-up out of mid to late 80's or early 90's GM pickup that has a small block or V6 and standard trans.. Slave and master would be matched and bell-housing would have a place for the slave.. May have to buy new slave and master but they are cheap...
     
    Last edited: Mar 12, 2015
  6. PackardV8
    Joined: Jun 7, 2007
    Posts: 1,179

    PackardV8
    Member

    For fifty years, I wrestled with mechanical clutch linkage on engine swaps. Today, I use hydraulic master cylinder and throwout bearings on all my obsolete builds.

    jack vines
     
  7. 307 Chevy in my '38 Ford pickup with a T5 trans and bellhousing and fork from a mid-'70s Chevy/GMC pickup that had a 307 and 3 on the tree. I used the master and slave for a Mazda/Ford Courier pickup. Homemade bracket to mount the slave , slave pushes the stock Chevy clutch fork
     

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