The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by HotRodChassis, Mar 8, 2010.
Hey Guys,, I just left a message for the Track to see if I can get a copy of the "Official" 12 second and slower rules so we can post as soon as possible.
I do know that they flagged my wagon last year because I had a plastic oil pressure line,, the tech inspector said that aluminum, copper, anything BUT plastic would be alright. They let me run that day, but told me that it needed to be changed before I could race again..
I've run plastic years ago without problems, but will swap it over to something different.
I know years ago, windows were needed, wondering about this and the carb return springs.
Ran my truck in GA years ago, they were very easy going on tech, but i want to make sure i got everything covered for the grove...
PBR... I assume this is a door car, not a full on drag car, right? I wouldn't think they'd let you run without side glass. I don't think I've ever seen that. Being as this is a special event... they might let it slide. Hopefully one of the Czars can ask about this one specifically.
Any car running slicks... normal rules say any car running slicks needs a properly placed driveshaft loop.
Any car running 13.99 or faster needs a helmet. ANY roadster or convert needs a helmet regardless of its ET.
Battery needs to be securely mounted. This is common sense. If yours is held in with bungie or bailing wire, you might want to fab up something nice.
Also something to think about... door handles for you custom guys. I've seen guys get hollered at for not having door handles. If you wreck and they have to get in to you...
And lastly... make sure you don't have any fluid leaks! It might not seem like a big deal... but there are some really fast cars that might end up running through some fluid you dropped resulting in some really bad stuff.
We'll get some answers to you ASAP, PBRmeASAP.
Band #1 confirmed! Still working on #2!
Raw garage rock from the Blackbelts
Last year I ran with the Midwest Gassers and no one has ever looked at or teched my car. I think I may just go slower than 12 seconds to be safe and protect me and the car.
and continuing the same theme...the cars that are running with the Midwest Gassers are not going to get a pass anymore. The new tech official was introduced to us at the annual meeting and the tone was very stern. The rules will be inforced.
The rules are for the safety of all involved. They are well thought out and many have been in place for decades.
The track needs to enforce the rules to protect not only the racers and fans, but to comply with insurance regulations and minimize their liability.
For your own safety, take time to comply.
So I don't need to buy a book, can anyone list the rules for 12.0 and slower? I read what I could online and I think the rubber fuel hose on my Hilborn injection is a problem.
Maybe it doesn't matter, I found the 2007 rules and it does not look good for the Fiat.
All cars must be self-starting. Rollers and/or push starts prohibited.
They did clearly let me push start last year though.
Yes it's a 31 chevy pickup, little hot rod, shouldn't be that fast, but now that you mention slicks...what is the thoughts on the hurst cheater slicks? I've got them on the truck, and have boxed my driveshaft in with 1"x1" as it runs through the back of the cab. YES, it works (found that out the hard way) but it's not as your typical driveshaft loop you can buy for race cars.
Hope i'm not making a hugh deal outta this, but really hope to get one of the cool waterslides...
The safety requirements for 12.99 and slower are on our site. Straight from the NHRA rule book. And frankly guys, I'm not sure why you WOULDN'T want this stuff on your car. It just makes common sense.
Common examples of drive shaft loops can be found in almost any Jegs or Summit catalog. they're not expensive, and will pass any tech you can find. That's why they sell them.
I'm liking the concern about passing tech. It'll make all of us look at the safety of our cars. After all, I'm sure any of you with fast cars aren't only doing hole shots on the strip. HAHAHA Also, it means you WANT to race.
As for GLD's techs being "harsh" or "stern", come on. In order for any track to maintain their NHRA,USRA,NMRA, etc. cert, they have to inspect cars correctly, and per the regulations. I know, I know, "everyone" has been through a tech at the East Bumble Fuck Dragway and thought the guy wasn't really doing his job. Are you saying that because you lost to "that guy," or because he crashed into you? Personally, I've only ever heard this from the office of "they". And the few techs I've heard of that really weren't doing their jobs (two that I know of) were fired from the track and pretty much blackballed from other tracks. If the tech passes a car, and doesn't do his job, and someone gets hurt think about what happens. The track is liable, gets sued, the track closes down, etc. etc. Union Grove (GLD) has been open for YEARS.
Lets all take a long look at the few items you're required to have (and just make common safety sense for the road anyway), add what you don't have, and all race and have a good time.
Somehow, the HAMB Drags and Day Of The Drags all go over without a hitch, everyone has a great time, and DRAG RACES ALL DAY. The Hunnert Car Heads Up will be the same!
thank you Ray, now I will step down from my soap box and get back to work.
That's a good question about double return springs. The book says two. So I would say you qualify. Buuuuut, every car I've ever built, or taken the time to look at, at a track, had the typical one spring inside another. Edelbrock, Holley, Mr. Gasket, etc. all sell these as kits, and usually with a small universal bracket.
As for door glass, I'd say you would need a net, as I believe the intention for door glass is to provide for you or your arms not coming out of the car in the event of a crash. It's a question I've not had to address, as most 12.99 cars and slower that I've worked with have all had glass in the doors. I'll have to consult the track tech on that one.
The NHRA rulebook specifies that any car with a fast enough ET to require a CAGE also requires a NET. But does not specify glass in a door.
If I had to make an opinion, I would say that a car with no door glass at all would be considered an open car, like a roadster, and treated as such. Meaning that any car with an ET 11.99 and BELOW would need arm restraints.
Rubber hose where? From the tank in the back of the car to the front? Or from the barrel valve to the injectors?
1:5 Fuel Systems:
Lines: All NON-OEM fuel lines (including gauge and data recorder lines) must be metallic, steel braided, or NHRA-Accepted "woven or woven push lock." A maximum of 12 inches total (front to rear) of non-metallic or non-steel braided hose is permitted for connection purposes only; individual injector nozzle and motorcycle fuel lines are excluded. Fuel lines (except steel braided lines) in the flywheel/bellhousing area must be enclosed in a 16-inch length of steel tubing, 1/8 minimum wall thickness, securely mounted as a protection against fuel rupture. Fuel lines may not be mounted in the drive shaft tunnel. It is mandatory that fuel lines passing supercharger drive belts be steel braided, NHRA-Accepted woven or woven pushlock, or be enclosed in protective steel tubing.
What does all that mean?
1. Well, if you're car has a clutch, run the fuel line inside the frame rail where it passes the bell. Or get a length of steel tubing to run it in.
2. If you have rubber line from the back of your Model A sedan all the way to the front, replace it with steel line from the Napa. You can still have a 6" hose from the tank to the steel line, and a 6" hose from the line to your fuel pump. And you can still have rubber from your pump to your carb (although it's better to have a hard line there). If you guys can make your own brake lines, or have a buddy with a brake line flairing tool, then you can make a steel line from your pump to your carb or your distribution block.
All of this fuel line stuff just makes sense. How many of you (us) has had a rubber hose wear through because it was rubbing on the alternator bracket, or the belt was rubbing it SOMETIMES because it wasn't secured. Or a line that was pinched from the tank between teh body and frame, and you didn't realize it until you were on the side of the road with a dead car?
I'm actually really glad everyone is asking all these questions. Even if you're not coming to the Heads Up, perhaps it'll make you take a good look at your car. And some of this discussion will spur you to upgrade or repair things that have been bugging you. Really, how much is a lenght of 3/8" fuel line at the Napa? $15 and a Sunday afternoon of making your car more reliable, as well as safer?
Keep the questions coming! We want to see all of you have safe cars. And the Czars for sure want to see you all at the races!
Seat belts are in, next will be the oil line and double return springs. Is there anyone i could contact about the door glass, or if just regular old plexi glass would work, what about back window? This is just a hot rod, not a race car, 14's i'd guess, maybe if i'm lucky a 13.
I will be there for sure hoping I have my 55 done by then, but the 53 with my canned ham in tow will be for sure!
It is hard to see, but this is where all my fuel line is. There is about 3 feet that feeds the pump from the tank that is hard to see here.
Paul: looks like you don't have much choice but to use rubber...or braided line. Maybe you should go to www.greatlakesdragaway.com and contact one of the owners and send your question and photo for their assessment.
What do you mean? I just copied the rules from this years NHRA rule book. "All NON-OEM fuel lines (including gauge and data recorder lines) must be metallic, steel braided, or NHRA-Accepted "woven or woven push lock." A maximum of 12 inches total (front to rear) of non-metallic or non-steel braided hose is permitted for connection purposes only; individual injector nozzle and motorcycle fuel lines are excluded."
That means that all other lines MUST be braided or woven design.
Inlaw Model A: I'd say that everything from the tank to the pump and then to the barrel valve needs to be replaced with braided stainless. You don't have a ton of connections there with the short distance. If it's a difference between you racing and not, give me a buzz and I'll help you out as best I can.
I just talked with Marcel the tech guy at Da' Grove and he said that if I run 12.0 or slower I am ok. He said I need to find him when I get to the track and I will have no problems. He said I need a firesuit, helmet, updated harnesses, overflow bottle, double throttle springs, and I am good. So, let's race!
ok what are the rules for the mini bike race
are there going to be different classes
Awesome! I'd say that thing will travel a bit over 12.00, yes? Or are you going to throttle stop it from doing that?
No different classes for mini-bikes. Run what ya brung. It's only from 12-1p for the minibike stuff.
Helmet, long pants, close toed shoes (yes, you have to tell people that), a jacket, close fingered gloves. And your off and racing (at 25mph)!
I will probably throttle stop it or just half track it. Mathmatically it is a 10 second car, but my best run was 11.4. Top speed so far was 128mph. I don't want to hurt the car, just have fun.
Plexiglass is a brand name for acrylic and Lexan is a brand name for polycarbonate. If something goes wrong, you don't want acrylic in front of you. It is NOT impact resistant. Use polycarbonate, that's what race cars use for a reason.
We are planning on bringing our Riley 2 port powered sprint car. I don't expect it to be very fast. We just want to have some fun and not break anything.
Usually with street tires it's difficult achieve sub twelves and most cars will pass this "Safety Tech" However if you're pushing out High MPH's your car can be pulled until the car is satisfactorly updated to comply with the NHRA Safety Rules for the Faster Classes.
And yes it does "SUCK" not to race and I've sat out the last few drag events because of a couple "Buck Twenty Three" runs.
Nice thing about the "Heads Up' is that if your car doesn't meet the "Safety Tech"... you can see a ton of "Very Cool" cars and Races!
I have all "NEW" safety stuff to run a Roadster... New NHRA approved XL helmet, New arm restraints and a New Neck Brace should anybody need this stuff... contact me!
I have a 2009 NHRA Rule Book... anybody know what changes were made for 2010?
I wanna see that roadster RUN, Mark!
Mark ran away from his roadster...sold to a fellow from the Denver area.
I updated the website. We forgot to mention earlier that If you want to race, you MUST be at the driver’s meeting at 9:30am. You can get your car tech’d later, but you need to be at the meeting in the Pits. This meeting will cover safety, the plan/schedule for the day, etc. There was a lot of mayhem and missed races last year, so this will hopefully clear that problem up.
I hope to spectate!
On a tech note, when I've gone through tech at GLD, they will pay close attention to the overflow, and how well the battery is secured.
Usually they've required helmets for 13.99 and quicker, and they also rent them. If I head out I could bring mine. I also have an XL firesuit, along with gloves.
Hmmm on second thought I might be able to make Merc passes, SOTP feels like mid 14's to me.
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