HUBBA HUBBA my 32-4 Tudor tribute to Gramps

@Stogy I think I didn’t communicate well. That tight area I think your focused on is just the lever assembly that will link the two together and I’ll attach a handle with the NOS Daka-Ware oxblood knob. This will release the latches so the seat will tilt forward. In those pics it is at its tightest with the base rocked as far back as I have designated.
My dilemma is the latch thickness is crammed against the seat base side. Leaving no room on the other side for the second latch. It’s a 1/4” plus wiggle room shy. If I made the side bracket taller I could clear. I’m guessing on this stuff and going by visual proportions. I’ve been building the seats to sit as low as I can believing they are tall at the cushion. I can always raise them by the mounts that bolt to the floor. I have not made these yet. Can’t mock the seats in the car do to all the chop bracing I welded in.
I got the cool flat head solid rivets today, “which is nice”.



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I think I get what your saying is those two open holes are actually for rods and do not secure the assembly to the seat...secure latch to seat is done through the sides...Well if you have a Angled Gap requiring a filler you have been given some options to ponder but the only requirement is the washers be a Drabby Green Color...

I was thinking there must be some vintage NA Period Auto that could supply a solution...I was looking at Willys Jeep but they don't seem to have anything along those lines. I believe this is more for seat angle rather than Fwd/Aft and I think you mentioned swivel...way before Chryslers version in the late 50s or was it early 60s...So Fwd/Aft is fixed? It sure would be nice to only need 1 Lever...

 

One lever/knob each seat to tilt forward for back seat access. Two lever/knob each seat to rock base for comfort.

Low mojo tonight but I am desperately trying to keep ball rolling. Any work is for the greater good.

I hand polished the fuel pump stand with a dirty sock a few years ago. It looked quite grey. The old chrome fuel pump outshined(hee,hee) it a fair amount so... I took another stab at it and it’s much closer to the blower stuff now.

It would however require lots of sanding to get it to the same level. I actually would prefer if the blower parts looked like this. That’s not going to happen given the fresh sanding to get through the cast surface has made it all look pretty new in my eyes. Oh well.
Now the steel piece and breather are suspect to attention. They have the amount of crap look I wanted for the engine bay before. It appears it is all getting a little nicer now. I tried to say the other day that under the hood may seem fresher than the rest of the car. If I want the car to look like it is a survivor that’s been used off and on for decades. It stands to reason the motor has seen some repairs or rebirth?

And I sweated a couple more grill bars that went much better. Next step is making a flat steel perimeter band with holes at top and bottom that the shutters plug into.


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https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/friday-art-show-07-24-2020.1200527/#post-13678235

...Happy Friday...
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Yesterday when you posted this I clicked on the art show then the link to this thread. When it goes to the first page I just glazed over the posts. I kinda know them cause I’ve read the thread some at different times to get my head sorted. What popped out for me yesterday was that I stated that I expected the car, or believed, it would be finished in a little over a year! It rattled me and I can’t decide if I’m more ashamed or awakened from a my naiveté? What the hell was I thinking?
As a kicker, my wife tells me this morning that it popped up on her face book that I picked the car up five years ago today. Ouch! right in the balls. The only thing that comes to mind to calm my emotions is that the vision has gone way beyond its humble origins. Oh and life does really get in the way. I’m sure I did most of the work in the first or second year. I feel like I’ve waisted two for sure as well. Let’s hope it’s not two more.

In fact it was so long ago that this picture faded on my phone

Last night I polished my old chrome fuel pump, well half of it anyway, I can’t find the other for the life of me. I bought this piece first then the glass bowl, the wire clip dealio, and then the pump piece the diaphragm goes into and bolts to the stand.

The pic makes it look much nicer than it truly is.

The wwii seat pad showed up. It is folded in half here. I had to scrub the hell out of it. I used simple green and I think it took a ton of dye out with it. The underside looks damn near mint and that was really close to the top before I screwed it up. I think I can get the same thing NOS. I’m torn on the actual authentic era correct military olives. It’s all quite complicated. Getting one that gels with the car’s other green choices is tricky and I apply my cranium to it often. It has to be right. Any schmuck could slap hunter green or some rattle can camo stuff on and call it a day. But not this dude I have to make it hard right?
As my wife said today... happy anniversary.
To that I say... Hubba Hubba


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About the engine bay being nicer. It’s the only part of the car that gets misted with anti freeze, oil, and who knows what else. Cleaned the least and exposed to the most heat.

give it some time and it’ll look “perfectly shitty”

 

Throughout these project years you have to be thankful you still have it and its still moving forward...BIG Bonus...I don't like Deadlines as like Resolutions they are difficult Mountains to Navigate I have Found, so no Resolutions nor Deadlines for me and just feel good about progress and these milestones you achieve will help things fall into place one by one...and mixing the angles of attack give one pause to ponder the more challenging elements...

 

Best laid plans of mice and men eh? Unless you are paying someone to work on your car or doing it 40 hours a week things seem to drag on. Stick with it. I know I am.

That seat cover might come back nicely if you retreat the canvas, it looks like canvas. Just beware of what you use! I ruined a canvas tent with paraffin and lamp oil. YouTube is full of shit. I think paraffin and mineral spirits is the correct stuff maybe with some green food colour in your case.

 

I've found hunting for the right parts the most time consuming of my build, and I can see that has also impacted your build. When you're looking for a specific part from a specific time frame things can take a while. Perfecting the look you're after also takes time to work out and adjust. Your car will have more personality than any cooky cutter car built in a short time frame. If you need some validation of the time you've spent, I for one have drawn plenty of inspiration from your build, keep up the great work!

 

dead lines are for those stupid tv shows.....
look back on those 5 years and note all the stuff you did in life besides the car. you have mentioned a few, kids, guitars, , house projects, kids etc....be proud of all those AND what you have gotten done on the car.

 

I have a near dead ringer for this seat’s color in good ol’ rattle can. I don’t really believe it’s a authentic military color. It does however make a better jump to my planned body color and the metallic green interior parts. The drab fabric? I’m still checking. These current color proposals almost seem passable to me for the lay people. I’ll keep diggin until the seats are together though.

I recon I’m slowly drifting towards antique collector. I felt a touch guilty stripping the original paint off my Arvin heater box today. It now has to be soaked in my buddy Mr. Derusting solution.
I was closing up the garage tonight. I’ve said how the car looks totally different here than the iPhone pics I post. I don’t know if this is better for you all. It’s dark and it still has an abundance of missing metal. But I think this better shows that the front isn’t stretched. It also looks more stubby and pissed off from the driveway. I noticed tonight it looks pretty small and I actually often forget it’s a Sedan not a 3w. Maybe it’s the missing roof section, lol.

Finally recently it struck me that I shouldn’t run seven rows of louvers in my roof insert. I think six will suffice and gel with the hood spacing better. I somehow believe it will look more olden times?





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Finished up the main rough shaping of my 40 box.
I’ll do some final smoothing tonight.

I didn’t apply as much effort to the sector shaft portion or the under car area. There is a lot of metal cut off this beaut. In chrome it should look great.
For those who haven’t followed along. This steering box choice is so I can run my pinman arm up. I’m super excited to see it together with this setup. I’ll concede that the rear exhaust port and I may have a fight coming. I’d be shaking if I was going to use a over the counter header.


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I finally got the cool guy rivets. I’m fitting them now.
I believe I can cut the back edge of the rear plates to match the angle where they meet the seat frame.



Cut the seat back “cushions” too. The cotton batting doesn’t do much. Maybe I should sneak another thin layer of something?

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I don't know how much batting costs, I always scrounge it up, but I have thought cheap moving blankets would make a good underlayment.

 

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Well if you can’t keep your tiny two car garage clean and organized. Apparently building hot rods in it will have some drawbacks. I’m sadly certain I’ve lost my old chrome fuel pump lower half. I wanted to push forward after I accidentally ripped the old NOS AC rebuild kit box and started loosing screws. I took the worst one of my spare pumps and thought I’d give a quick shine. I used the worst so the better ones could be used on other builds in the original form.
This one had loads of large corrosion pitting. It actually works out for Hubba’s style.


Better snap it up before I loose something.


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Nice!

 

Giving the intake a hard look over. I have an idea formulating for mounting the blower. I saw this on the lifter valley side.

Definitely going to be a period intake system. My early style GMC unit were first released in 39. They’ll go together well I believe.


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Lots and lots of thinking going on here.
Widening the main hallway space of the lower intake. Plans include patching the driverside with plate to mimic the existing curve on the other side. This still will equate to a small plenum space in my opinion. I am working around this by on widening the main hallway and stacking two 3/4” billet plates on top of each other. The lower... welding to the intake and the top bolts on the bottom of the pruned blower. I will bolt the top plate and blower to the lower plate using gaskets and a phenolic spacer of the same shape to act as a heat insulator and plenum volume adjuster. 1/4-1/2” maybe. (Just use aluminum for my carb base then) The blowers outlet is a larger shape than the center of said lower hallway of Ford intake. So the bottom plate welded to the intake will be ported up and outwards from where it meets the intake to the upper side where it will be the blower outlet size. I may just shape it from bottom surface of the low plate all the way through spacer, top plate, to where it meets the blower.

I started rough opening the “hallway” outside while kids rode bikes today. Then a big storm blew in before I could finish. Going to be some nice port work in here when I’m done trust me I don’t play around. I had started to cut thin plates to patch the hole and the center area too but will have to go to friends to weld. Then I thought maybe I could just bend a long thin aluminum flat stock all the way around this milled off surface. Maybe welding as I go? Then weld a 3/8-1/2” plate on top of it for the blower and plate to bolt to. Just putting a 3/4” plate onto the intake will be a nightmare to weld. There won’t be nary a space to get the Tig torch nor filler rod into some of the spaces from the outside. Welding from inside of the intake’s valley may work but limiting flow potential if I can’t port the weld much. I should say also that the plate going directly to the intake will have the long hallway machined out of the middle. All the ports will also be extended and shaped through the flat plate stock as well. When you will look directly from above it will appear as one long 14” slot with the swell part in the middle. You will have to peak in to see the port holes. And finally the top plate that blower sets on and closes up this box will have two sloped ceilings milled out just above the “hallway” angling towards the opening in two different lines to 1; increase flow and 2; compensate for the lower most floor not running parallel to the block mating surface, the plates, or the blower.
Oh and on top of the upper plate I’ll have a finned aluminum Flathead fuel pump block off plate as my pop-off valve. Modified plus polished of course and trying some leftover motorcycle clutch springs to get the right pressure release.
Does any one follow along with what I’m laying down here?


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Oh I forgot to mention that holes will get drilled through the bottom plate to access the manifold bolts. 8 Allen bolts come up from the bottom of the top plate to hold the blower. There heads sunk in.

I got one of these beefier front bearing plates coming in the post. I was going over my rebuild/conversion instructions and had forgot how the Detroit plates are weak around the bearing. It seems like cheap insurance at a buck and a half to keep from destroying all my hard work. I’m not always a cheap arse. Sadly I’ll have to polish it when it arrives, can’t justify throwing away another thirty chucks, lol.


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Does this help? With a faux 1/4 “phenolic” spacer. See how the bottom plate will be shaped to the bulge area of the Ford intake? The top plate more directly into blower. Also I drew lines to show how the milled ceiling right above the main hallway will flow. Or should I call it a corridor?
It’s not going to be a great intake but I’m pushing it some and it’s period 46-48 possible with a mad engine scientist I believe. I’m stoked that it will be fabricated from a Henry piece. Just like before any would have been offered over the speed counter. The standard fuel pump positioning will work too.

I have this real close too. Unfortunately there is an area that has two small casting pockets exposed now that need welded before I can polish it. I think it will look awesome! I read somewhere that F1s are steel not iron. I wonder if this 40 box is as well?


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I don't for a minute believe thinking minds weren't around in 46 that could think, modify and fabricate such genius...

Just think of those that were involved in racing...quite a number of those machines were innovative Showworthy and packed with each competitors secrets and engineering...

You have a very good understanding of the principles of what you're doing and on top of that you are mechanically inclined so in fact a garage engineer...aka Hotrodder

Perhaps gas welding might be involved in the joining of parts and that is totally period correct which brings to mind the type of aluminum you use I suspect should closely match your manifold.

Great job in Polishing and Hotrod Smoothing 'Shine'...

 

Still chugging along superslow with seats.

The springs for the base tilt position levers are a complete guesstimate. Esthetically I would like a larger diameter coil. The lever for the seat tip forward latch release will cross right under this spring. May be a close fit issue. Only time will tell.

Got the new front bearing support and started shaping it yesterday. Looks like I will have to grind some more off the already finished housing here at this nub. I ground quite a bit off the aftermarket plate to get it to look more like the originals’ two bumps. These are only on the driver side of the blower. The other side is smooth and easy. I like this side visually much more.


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Try brake springs for the seat.

 

I had sat down to post this pic then remembered I said before that I would put up anymore of the blower till it was finished. Sorry, don’t want to be perceived as a liar, but that was before I had to by this aftermarket support plate.
I haven’t installed the dowel pins in it so that why this shot and the previous are at a weird angle of it on its end.


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...Purty...Aluminum and Engines=Harmony

 

Good there’s room for the base rocker lever spring above the tilt release lever!


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That looks lovely

 

All these little ideas have a starting place from where they derive.
P-47 seat





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Baby steps



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