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HUBBA HUBBA my 32-4 Tudor tribute to Gramps

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Runnin shine, Jul 15, 2015.

  1. Stogy
    Joined: Feb 10, 2007
    Posts: 26,348

    Stogy
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  2. Runnin shine
    Joined: Apr 12, 2013
    Posts: 3,337

    Runnin shine
    Member

    IMG_0855.JPG
    Not what you guys would like to see. I am moving my blocks to put on dollies I’ve almost finished. Going right now to pick up some more angle to finish. I need these out of the way to be productive on the body.
    Taking two huge PA speakers to a friends tomorrow and have some more rearranging to do. I should dig deep and sell some OT stuff to fund the blower and engine machining.



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  3. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 17,212

    Tim
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    from KCMO

    That nerf bar looks killer with the center grill bar!
     
  4. Runnin shine
    Joined: Apr 12, 2013
    Posts: 3,337

    Runnin shine
    Member

    Not to sound conceited but when I made it I would’ve thought it be copied by now. I’ve seen a couple close since but not exact. I can’t see doing it a different way.


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  5. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 17,212

    Tim
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    Looks worth copying haha. Good luck with your garage purge and rearrange.
     
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  6. Damn @Runnin shine! You hit it out of the park with the grill & chin bar. Not just the design but the execution as well.
     
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  7. Runnin shine
    Joined: Apr 12, 2013
    Posts: 3,337

    Runnin shine
    Member

    Thanks for the props!
    It should look really good soon since I’m working on finishing it. Messin with the mounting of the shutters and try to decide how I want the cable lever to actuate them.
    Can’t believe I started it over four years ago. So sad.
    Anderson never sent me the radiator cap opening from his grill shell he cut out to peak. I have been unsuccessful at locating another to repair my OG 32 shell. You gotta love that latex house paint schlabbed on this one. So close to the Lacquer I’ll be put’n on. It is darker in person then the pic portrays.


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  8. Runnin shine
    Joined: Apr 12, 2013
    Posts: 3,337

    Runnin shine
    Member

    I briefly deliberated going with one of these this week.
    IMG_0817.JPG
    [​IMG]
    Final verdict came up thumbs down. They cost so much I ruled against it.
    So some blower pieces are in the mail.
    Once I get the main 3-71 unit I look forward to fully mimic Navarro’s Roadster set up.
    [​IMG]
    Should be fun pruning all the excess cheese off the hunk. I am going to polish the entire intake set up but do a crappy job on purpose. I’m curious about making the 4 carb base plate out of phenolic?


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    Last edited: May 31, 2020
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  9. dumprat
    Joined: Dec 27, 2006
    Posts: 3,485

    dumprat
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    The phenolic material should work good! I would seriously suggest using a very good quality threaded insert for all the threads and gluing them in. I have made a ton of industrial parts out of the stuff over the years and other than the dust and stink it's fairly easy to work with it just doesn't hold threads at all and every corner needs a radius or they chip off.

    A good coat of some sort of epoxy sealer once you are done cutting and sanding should make it almost perfect for a carb base.
     
  10. Runnin shine
    Joined: Apr 12, 2013
    Posts: 3,337

    Runnin shine
    Member

    @dumprat, I wonder if the mixture screws would be ok just in the phenolic? All my vintage amp builds have daka ware knobs with set screws threaded in. It seems like similar material.
    I also can get the larger butterflies of the 2110 to add cfm. I’ve researched all the tricks to get more air through these 94s. I don’t need to bother with the 4 carbs on the 4” stroke engine. But if I’m going to machine a four carb base I sure don’t want to do it twice. The Merc crank I cut on I will have offset ground for second engine attempt with bigger valves than 1.6 and a better cam than the 400jr for the 4” engine.
    All of this for a car without a quick change, Homogenists will laugh at me all day long.


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  11. dumprat
    Joined: Dec 27, 2006
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    Not sure I understand why the mixture screws would be in the carb manifold?
    Is Daka a Bakelite product? It might have more strength. Typically industrial grade "Micarta" is hard but can be crumbly and has poor edge strength.
     
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  12. Runnin shine
    Joined: Apr 12, 2013
    Posts: 3,337

    Runnin shine
    Member

    I’m talking about making a four carb phenolic base plate(throttle body assembly) that all four old chrome main bodies and tops bolt together to.
    I posted pics of this Barney Navarro made set up before. The goal is it gets the throttle bores closer together for the small 3-71 blower top opening.
    IMG_9080.JPG
    IMG_9079.JPG
    It’s one of the coolest hot rod adaptations I’ve ever seen.


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  13. dumprat
    Joined: Dec 27, 2006
    Posts: 3,485

    dumprat
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    Sounds bitchin!

    I would thread it with bigger inserts and glue them in, but that is just me. (I think it might be a lot easier too!)
     
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  14. Stogy
    Joined: Feb 10, 2007
    Posts: 26,348

    Stogy
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    Hubba2020GV2.jpg

    IMG_0815.JPG

    Credit to All That Inspired This
     
    Last edited: Jun 1, 2020
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  15. dumprat
    Joined: Dec 27, 2006
    Posts: 3,485

    dumprat
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    from b.c.

    Stogy try one with out the seeweed flames. To my eye they ruin the lines of the car.
    If Wyatt wants the racer turned show car vibe it needs more shiny bits on the exterior as well.
     
    Last edited: Jun 2, 2020
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  16. Runnin shine
    Joined: Apr 12, 2013
    Posts: 3,337

    Runnin shine
    Member

    Thanks! @Stogy looks great.
    I have no expertise in the field of camera obscura and the weird tricks they play especially IPhone camera. My wife tries to explain it to me but alas. The car truly does not look so long here in the flesh. Some of it may be Steve left the frame color black. I am doing it the body color back to the rear axle c-notch. The rear frame horns and tank will be black. The pics at these angles I am squeezed into make the hood appear much longer than it is. The color print makes it almost too classy. The finished car won’t be so glossy.
    I’ve never completely decided weather the car was a race car first or the later. As things have evolved it probably is more believable in Hot Rod build first then some racing or maybe back in forth as time passed. It’s all just a bullshit yarn I’ve tried to use for artistic direction. It was supposed to be original black and rusty until you all started hounding me to paint it. Hell, I thought molasses was for horses and baking when I picked her up out of Michigan.
    IMG_0684.JPG
    Then Mark did his sketch and I kept making it nicer. He inspired tons of refinement. I hold him responsible for the steering wheel, dash, and mohair rear seat, as well as the green interior. His Cousin is not innocent in this Either!

    @dumprat the only shiny bits on the outside will be, door handles, left key lock, hood strip, radiator cap, bezel, grill insert surround, chin guard, v-8 emblem, shocks, axle, bones, backing plates, spindles, shackles, drag link, pitman arm, and gas cap. All of it will look old not fresh. The windshield frame is still in question for it’s really bad. There is a chance I do it in black to go with my lights and hood latches. My head light rings are old black but the driver top has worn through some.
    I’m am definitely on the side of the “seaweed”. It will be in a lighter shade of grey or real dirty white and faded. I’m am concerned they could make the car look too stretched. Then there’s the door number dilemma as well. It will absolutely have Hubba Hubba on the cowl side. Gramps’s car was that way and that’s where this all started.
    I got to get it ready for outside pics. Trust me when I say it looks much more badass here where I stare.


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    Last edited: Jun 1, 2020
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  17. Stogy
    Joined: Feb 10, 2007
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    Stogy
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    I don't know if flames on these former Hotrods/Racer designated them Showcars...I suspect it was just another crazy wild in your face thing that a number of Hotrodders chose to do and Artists and Wannabe Artists stepped up to the plate...I am sure many didn't see any Shows.

    Now the way I am assuming is this style of Lick was present in the early to mid 50s possibly even late 40s in origin...

    The Seaweed was later and correct me if I'm wrong perhaps Larry Watson...ish which is out of period for this Hotrod...

    Shine, I will unshine this, body color the frame and reflame with another period type flame...please bear with me as I revisit the drawing board...

    I think this is nothing short of a glimpse back to the past and sitting well with the masses has never happened with Hotrod...especially with Flames...:eek:

    I do realize the difficulty in nailing a look...especially from one not in the driver seat...I really like this Hotrod Journey you've embarked on creating, and as you buckle it together the lines will become more defined...

    I did not add the the roof insert as I wanted to present you something and the time was ticking...I know you wanted to see something to help motivate and envision. So while the mark was missed I hope there are some things that fit the bill. Just another thing to share was I dropped it down evenly and I noted later you mentioned the front only...

    Lovin' the Details...

    Stogy
     
    Last edited: Jun 1, 2020
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  18. Runnin shine
    Joined: Apr 12, 2013
    Posts: 3,337

    Runnin shine
    Member

    @Stogy, oh man please don’t take me as unappreciative of your work. You have helped this car move leaps forward in radical imagery. I don’t need you to apply any effort to the salt steam stripes. It’s ultimately up to me how I execute laying them down. I believe I will have them less refined to give it a more authentic 1947 look. I’ll make sure that the only fools who make reference to them as flames are the same people who will call it a rat rod.
    I am so ashamed that I haven’t finished this car yet. I can see it quite clearly now I believe in its evolved stature representing my thoughts most accurately.
    On other topic one of my blower pieces arrived today and I quickly packaged it back up to mail to my friend to machine off a bunch of the outside bolt hole surface. Once he mails it back I will polish most of its magnesium to the just right levels.
    IMG_0872.JPG




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  19. Dick Stevens
    Joined: Aug 7, 2012
    Posts: 3,716

    Dick Stevens
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    I refuse to bare with you, however I will be happy to bear with you! :eek:
     
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  20. Stogy
    Joined: Feb 10, 2007
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    I think I'll correct that or things could get quite visually distracting...and yes bearing is plenty good enough Dick....:D
     
    Last edited: Jun 1, 2020
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  21. Runnin shine
    Joined: Apr 12, 2013
    Posts: 3,337

    Runnin shine
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  22. Stogy
    Joined: Feb 10, 2007
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    No sweat Runnin...I believe adding the bottom door and lower Body Bead and the rear section along with the fwd door window/post rework has lost your envisioned and fabbed lines...again I will go back to a less polished look and try to maintain those critical details for another more realistic vision...
     
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  23. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 17,212

    Tim
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    I always like the rough flames when more of the front is solid colored instead of the streamers starting so far forward. So I scribbled on top of the previously posted rendering F0343049-8D47-4A1B-AE02-D9E35E1B09A4.jpeg
     
  24. I may be in the minority here but I think the full "flames" take your eye away from the creative work/design of what the car really is. just my opinion.
     
  25. dumprat
    Joined: Dec 27, 2006
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    ^I agree completely!
    A solid colour will show the lines of the car, flames hide them.
     
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  26. Stogy
    Joined: Feb 10, 2007
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    Stogy
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    I'm curious if this Veteran Artist and Hotrodder Robert Williams extraordinaire captured a form of Seaweed you are mentioning on the Yellow 40 Coupe...

    Early_24_Hot-Rod-Race.jpg

    Credit to Artist, Owner
     
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  27. dumprat
    Joined: Dec 27, 2006
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    dumprat
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    from b.c.

    @Stogy
    The post should have read WITHOUT the seeweed flames.

    As I understand it Vondutch was the one who coined the term. Some of his work was brilliant, some complete crap in my opinion.
     
  28. Runnin shine
    Joined: Apr 12, 2013
    Posts: 3,337

    Runnin shine
    Member

    The Salt Steam Stripes are not flames nor scallops. They’re actually cool.
    Not that there’s anything wrong with the other.
    The car body will not be mono color. It will certainly have writing on the cowl, Edmunds Equipped on the hood tops, and unapologetically 13 on the doors. My outlook has changed lots along the way. I see it much more racey than earlier. I once wanted to drive it to valet only parking black tie events. Now I am far too influenced by the Lakes Coupe/Sedan thread. This is the problem with taking so long to finish something.
    [​IMG]
    Not the top, those do come across as flames. When @Stogy did the first pic with “stripes” last year it was a motion effect like this.
    [​IMG]
    I think it was me that mentioned putting them on the actual car once painted?
    I believe I can try to apply the Stogy stripes and not hurt the body lines that much. A possibility would be a test with shoe polish.
    I’m now investigating platting it as a 47.
    IMG_0841.JPG
    The trans is a 40 and the frame a 32. I have to deal with this at some point or it will just be a race car I guess.



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    Last edited: Jun 3, 2020
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  29. Runnin shine
    Joined: Apr 12, 2013
    Posts: 3,337

    Runnin shine
    Member

    IMG_0877.JPG
    I have to really think this one through. I’m trying to copy the Winterfront design as much as I can. So for the simplest way to make the shutters have a pivot point is to rivet these hardware store thingies.
    [​IMG]
    I have to make a steel insert for the regular insert that all 32(seriously) of these will go into. I haven’t decided how to link each side sets. Again I will steal from real ones how to actuate them. Planning on a spring that helps them open. Much rather have it stick open then closed. I don’t know if my cable pull has a adjustable tension to hold it in a certain spot. I would like to see them slightly angled in most of the time. Soon I will clean and polish all the copper bars them give’m the bleach treatment to turn them all green and blue. Some urine might also be involved Tony.
    [​IMG]
    Like these but more perfected.


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    Last edited: Jun 3, 2020
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  30. dumprat
    Joined: Dec 27, 2006
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    dumprat
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    Be nice to slid the tang up inside the louver and solder it in. It would be strong and look factory.
     
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