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HUBBA HUBBA my 32-4 Tudor tribute to Gramps

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Runnin shine, Jul 15, 2015.

  1. Runnin shine
    Joined: Apr 12, 2013
    Posts: 2,843

    Runnin shine
    Member

    Hell yes Mark! I don’t know what sort of crazy I was sippin that one night.
    They are coming out awesome. I’m still sanding the lower concave curves that I ruff cut with the jigsaw. I have to glue/laminate the first and last bows to make them 1 1/4” wide or thick
    I test rounded over the edges with router and it’s nice.
    As usual though I’m bouncing all over the place from one bit to another.
    Wyatt



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  2. Runnin shine
    Joined: Apr 12, 2013
    Posts: 2,843

    Runnin shine
    Member

    I’m gonna name drop here so you know I’m serious. I just went back through my messages to see the measurements that I enquired about from @Flop . So now you can bet that the body will be back under the knife in a few days.
    Hyperpumped about the extra space I’ll have in the garage, ha, ha, ha, ha.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    Remember these?




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  3. Stogy
    Joined: Feb 10, 2007
    Posts: 13,023

    Stogy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    :rolleyes:...Oh Yeah, Oh Yeah...
     
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  4. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 9,813

    Tim
    Member
    from Raytown Mo

    Any photos of the wood bows yet?

    Any particular reason to have the seat pads hinged? Is there storage under it?
     
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  5. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 9,813

    Tim
    Member
    from Raytown Mo

    Because I almost always have a Snyder’s catalog with me. You know, just in case you need one. I snapped a photo of model a seat hardware
    19635788-C7CC-4ED1-B504-A282E78A8910.jpeg
    The seat legs bolt to the floor, the eyelet lines up with the clevis/double shear brackets shown in the bottom group. The bracket bolts to the front of the seat bottom and the seat pivots forward on that all.

    The little cone shaped cups bolt to the back bottom of the seat. Nothing holds the seat down in back if you were to jump some rail road tracks or something.

    I’m trying to figure out if I can keep a similarly simple set up in my sedan but be able to have multiple seating positions. I could just put a track in but I don’t want to lose to tumble forward feature, or have to step onto/between the tracks to get in back on that side.
     
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  6. Runnin shine
    Joined: Apr 12, 2013
    Posts: 2,843

    Runnin shine
    Member

    [​IMG]
    Here is the only one that “was” finished. I used a old can of aged oak that I tinted for my truck bumper. It was all gel’d up but I dug into it anyway. It looks totally wrong so I’ll pick a new can up and tint it as well to get the results I want.
    As for the seat base. If you recall the were mid century theater seat. Well, they flipped up in the original intended form. So long ago I devised the idea to make them adjust. But just a little to accommodate pesky passengers who would most likely have distain for what I would deem a sitting position worthy of a dog fight through traffic. Insert Snoopy climb, death spiral, and machine gun sound effects here.
    Oh and the entire seat flip forward to get in the back seat.



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  7. Runnin shine
    Joined: Apr 12, 2013
    Posts: 2,843

    Runnin shine
    Member

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  8. CURSED GEARS
    Joined: Jul 21, 2016
    Posts: 146

    CURSED GEARS
    Member

    Been away for a while. Glad to see your back at it. I've always liked the look of a Scots blower on a flathead. Just seems to flow into a flathead with finned heads. Good stuff shine!
     
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  9. Runnin shine
    Joined: Apr 12, 2013
    Posts: 2,843

    Runnin shine
    Member

    I should be done with sanding the final roof bows tomorrow. I glued two pieces together for the first and last bows. Then I cut them on each side to make them 1 1/4” wide. I also restained the one I did the other day with new stuff. It’s looks way better. I love it but will ruff them all up when finished.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    I also have decided to keep the wood that is above the side glass. I will still do some drilled holes in plate stuff. I’ll add that into the structure as well when I come up with some cool way to balance it all out. Most of this decision came out of the thought that most wouldn’t have yanked the wood out in 46-48 when it was still in fine shape.
    I have to leave town for a few days but plan to lift the roof off Monday and started cutting the quarter panels off. I have to decide to cut the frame down then get the body to be a match or vise versa. The body cut is based on the 32 3w lower quarter patch panels.
    [​IMG]




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    Last edited: Aug 28, 2019
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  10. Stogy
    Joined: Feb 10, 2007
    Posts: 13,023

    Stogy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Incredible Build to date @Runnin shine it's a Time Machine as technically All Hamb Material should literally fit into a time not so long ago...Quite a journey back. Thanks...;)
     
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  11. Runnin shine
    Joined: Apr 12, 2013
    Posts: 2,843

    Runnin shine
    Member

    I would like to add that given the year plus away from the car that I have grown very found of the small ish rear tire and big wheel opening. I’ve studied even longer and hard on original 40s images. I feel that this will be a big selling point for the statement I’m trying to make. Thanks Terry!
    I hope that as soon as Hubba Hubba speeds on by onlookers will have a gut urge to press their stopwatches. Even though they don’t know why.


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  12. Runnin shine
    Joined: Apr 12, 2013
    Posts: 2,843

    Runnin shine
    Member

    [​IMG]
    Well I guess technically they are not finished but I tried. I still need to drill the holes and tweak their finish with steel wool and my custom nicotine blend stain. I had dulled the test one and it looked pretty darn good. But then I realized they all needed a 1/4” radius router cut to the bottom sides.
    [​IMG]
    The tops are 1/8” with a little extra hand shaping. So I put the first step of stain on all of them and the test one again. I ran out of time cause Beaumont was home sick with the bathroom nasties.
    I know this thread really drags out with the stuff that most would not bother posting about so I apologize. At the same time I want to thank the H.A.M.B. and you readers. Having this forum and everyones feedback plus kudos helps me to keep goin when I’m goin. It’s funny now but if you go back to the first pages you will see there was some non-fans straightaway but I haven’t been harassed for my crazy in some time. This frees me to go more crazy hence the blower and extra cutting. Well at least I tell myself that when I feel the need to get frisky and change things. It isn’t exactly speeding things up. So be forewarned, plenty more small detail posts to come and some update one day later it may finally be finished. Not really right?





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    Last edited: Aug 30, 2019
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  13. tb33anda3rd
    Joined: Oct 8, 2010
    Posts: 15,040

    tb33anda3rd
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    1. Connecticut HAMB'ers

    details are good.......carry on.
     
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  14. Runnin shine
    Joined: Apr 12, 2013
    Posts: 2,843

    Runnin shine
    Member

    [​IMG]
    I picked these back up from my mom yesterday. She has just been in way to bad of shape to work on them for me. The good news is it will continue adding to the long list of things done by myself I guess


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  15. Runnin shine
    Joined: Apr 12, 2013
    Posts: 2,843

    Runnin shine
    Member

    Came home from weekend away. I usually think of the car as looking rather large as I pass it taking things into the house from the road trip. I don’t really know why but after noticing the roof of my driver is at my eye level I grow curious. So I measure the Tudor and it’s roughly 4 1/2 feet tall. It should certainly fall shy of this once weighted and with the extra chop. This seems low when I visualize my body sitting in less than that space. But I swear when I stare at the car it looks tall. Funny but oh well.
    Later I spent a slow beer worth of planning my cuts for the week. Unfortunately the X member will take some thoughts. I don’t want to remove the “boxing” plates that surround where the x merges and welds into the main rails. Ideally I would like to shorten it where there is a long oval’sh hole and turn it into a regular shaped hole like the rest of’m. But my simple mind realizes that as you move the back half of the frame forward. The two ends of the wacked X will not line up. I can make them connect but I need a solution to have them visually pleasant and not cobbled together.
    The main rails should be easy peezy other than triple dog checking my measurements, stabilizing, cuts, and realignment of everything. I plan to get pics of it outside for you all after these mods. Then maybe request some new photoshopory.
    Stay tuned.


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  16. Runnin shine
    Joined: Apr 12, 2013
    Posts: 2,843

    Runnin shine
    Member

    Ok I figured out how to make X look unaltered and still strong. Sometimes you just have to take a step back and it comes to ya easy.


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  17. greaser
    Joined: Apr 30, 2006
    Posts: 812

    greaser
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Ok already! I can't stand the suspense!
     
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  18. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 9,813

    Tim
    Member
    from Raytown Mo

    I spent about an hour yesterday before I remembered the way to accomplish what I needed in about 5 minutes. It is what it is
     
  19. Runnin shine
    Joined: Apr 12, 2013
    Posts: 2,843

    Runnin shine
    Member

    @greaser...
    Well there was this
    IMG_9238.JPG
    Which was a lot harder to fit then one would think.
    Then there was a trim to the b pillar
    IMG_9239.JPG
    I just overlapped the rear part of the roof for a visual. The front roof section has to be leaned back more and this requires a section taken out of the front roof half. I am pondering leaving the windshield it’s current size and cutting the header to place it further back up the roof panel? I also am going to trim and shorten the inner header support bracing to give more visibility out the windshield opening. I have to get the crowning out of the front of the roof.
    I am the happiest I’ve been with the roof height to date. I think it’s a 7” or 7.5” chop now. I’ve lost track.
    IMG_9243.JPG
    IMG_9250.JPG
    Mind you the front a-pillar area has not been corrected to match the other changes. I’ve discovered all type of other issues to address as it goes back together. No biggie just work. My point is I used up most the week staring, measuring, and thinking.
    I have to really plan out the seat mounting and the final seat cushion height. There is not a lot of room in there. I’ve been sitting on different stacks of boards and such to get a feel for its limitations. The back seat is a whole nother problem. I will most likely have to make the seat base shorter than stock. When I(5,10) sit on the diff case and the the axle is 2.5” from bottomed out I don’t have much room. Now if there was a seat I might hit the roof. The back is for kids but at the rate I’m going they’ll be grown before the cars on the road. I am considering another 1/2” chop for the sake of badass looks. I won’t do this until the the panels are back on and I see the final proportions. It has to look perfect. My wife will probably never want to ride in it now. But oh well.
    I took the extra 3” inch out of the quarter panels, started on the inner quarter support panel that the window regulator mounts to, marked the drilled brackets I made before to re-weld in better, trimmed the homemade right sub-rail to match the rocker curve. I’m about to drill holes in it to loosely reflect stocks oval holes. Then I’ll do the left side. I started cutting the frame down. This had to be taken very seriously. I’m using calipers, levels, and the kids abacus to precisely remove 3” and keep it straight. No frame table here. Reached a level of confidence then my wife came home sick Friday. I stopped and the garage is a complete disaster and a pile of cut-off wheel dust. But I’m happy again.
    IMG_9249.JPG
    This should be a good week for Hubba Hubba.
    I need to make two dollies or engine carts for the flatties to move out of the way. Then I can take the car outside for pics and photoshop requests.


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    Last edited: Sep 8, 2019
  20. That looks like SO much fun! With your attention to detail, it will be completely bad ass when you do finish it.
     
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  21. dumprat
    Joined: Dec 27, 2006
    Posts: 2,270

    dumprat
    Member
    from b.c.

    Just finish er up! Don't go deeper with the chop unless something looks super weird.

    When I chopped my 50 shoebox I found that a piece of 1/2"X1-1/2" lath was super helpful in gettinthe curves of the roof smooth where they need to be smooth without dips and bumps.
     
    Last edited: Sep 9, 2019
  22. Runnin shine
    Joined: Apr 12, 2013
    Posts: 2,843

    Runnin shine
    Member

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    I didn’t have intentions of running a suicide knob. I believe a stock size 40 steering wheel has limited clearance for your hands as is and I didn’t want to mess up its nice new finish. But when I saw this on wePay I believed it is a near perfect match. Nice level of wear and I could put it on the inside diameter of the wheel.
    It could always work in Ted’s Chevy if I don’t groove with it.


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  23. Somethings are just meant to be, right?
     
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  24. drylakespeedshop
    Joined: Jul 17, 2016
    Posts: 540

    drylakespeedshop
    Member

    I'm glad to see this build moving along again. Always a great thread to check in on!
     
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  25. Runnin shine
    Joined: Apr 12, 2013
    Posts: 2,843

    Runnin shine
    Member

    I gotta say cutting your “finished” frame apart is a weird thing even for me. It’s back together but needs some finish welding.
    [​IMG]
    I prefer to address this when I can put the frame on its sides. I have other spots that need attended to when the car comes apart for paint as well.
    [​IMG]
    These angle cuts were dictated by not wanting to add anymore weld to the frame and I some how imagine this is a stronger way than simply vertical. One angle cut was made right along the old weld were I joined the original 32 “trailer” frame. I removed metal from the section of material I made that was missing. This section is also where I stretched the 32 to fit the 34 Tudor body. So I have the same amount of Henry steel still in tact. The car now would be standard 32 106” wheelbase but remember my front axle is mounted forward for my spring behind setup.
    So the only new welds that make me visualize the frame as weakened would be the removed portions of the x member. Honestly the X is fairly flimsy when compared to the main rails in the first place. I took pieces of the x that I cut out and used them as fish plates where I connected it back together. This make me feel better about the hackery. I also now plan to add a two short boxing plates with one big hole each on the section of the long angle cut for my peace of mind.
    I spent hours upon hours fudging with the entire monstrosity to assure it was square. It is possibly better than before.
    I have to finish the holes I’m adding to the subrails. I also need find the subrail sections I starting shaping out two years ago that go up over the axle and then above the gas tank. These have to be welded to the for mentioned subrail sections that are attached to the B pillar door channel and cowl. Then I can set that all back on the frame and begin fitting the quarters again.
    Hang in there partners.


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    Last edited: Sep 10, 2019
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  26. Runnin shine
    Joined: Apr 12, 2013
    Posts: 2,843

    Runnin shine
    Member

    Now we make some ovals
    [​IMG]
    And where the hell did all my weld through primer go? Time to run more errands



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  27. Runnin shine
    Joined: Apr 12, 2013
    Posts: 2,843

    Runnin shine
    Member

    [​IMG]
    More holes to drill and dimple!
    I am going to sleep on the last top one on the hinge side and the lower one next to it. I’ll knock’m out tomorrow.
    I plan to fill, prime, block out, and paint dark green these inner panels as well as the smaller ones on the quarters. Then it will be black inside the doors and backsides of the body skins. The drilled holes will really pop then. I came up with this idea when I repaired and painted the inner header support that has all the holes running across.
    In the back of the car there is a wrap around steel strip that the interior fabric would have been fastened to. It is pretty much toast. I would like to replace it with a larger flat stock strip that I can also drill 2” holes with dimples. I hope this idea can pull the interior’s hole theme all together and not get cheesy.
    The way I see it in my head has the inside of the car being equally as aggressive and detail filled as the exterior and engine bay.


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  28. Stogy
    Joined: Feb 10, 2007
    Posts: 13,023

    Stogy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    This Frame Splice coincidentally runs on the same angle as the reveal I believe it is referred to as and it took me a few seconds to figure out where I was actually looking...man you have got this thing dissected...its all good however as you really have a handle on your direction and it's as alluded pretty wild watching you work your magic...thanks for sharing the Journey Runnin...;)
     
  29. Runnin shine
    Joined: Apr 12, 2013
    Posts: 2,843

    Runnin shine
    Member

    [​IMG]
    Well I made a fairly big miscalculation. Turns out I can’t get my dimple die to work on the doors or rear window regulator supports. It is too large in diameter to fit. Talk about a big damn it.
    [​IMG]
    On a good note these ovals look way better. I still have to finish grinding them all nice. Funny isn’t it that ideally no one will ever see these once the car is together.


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  30. dumprat
    Joined: Dec 27, 2006
    Posts: 2,270

    dumprat
    Member
    from b.c.

    Could you make a small die to go inside the door and finish the dimples? Even a wood one might do it.
     
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