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Technical how you guys mounting A radiators?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by lostone, Jun 2, 2019.

  1. lostone
    Joined: Oct 13, 2013
    Posts: 1,719

    lostone
    Member
    from kansas

    1931 A tudor, 440 auto, aluminum radiator, commercial grille shell I cut down 3".

    Ok with the specs listed I have a question for you gents. I'm moving the radiator forward 2 inches and I was wondering how you guys handled doing this on the mounts?

    Do you mount a piece of strap to the bottom of the radiator solid and then where the strap mounts on the frame put the rubber and bolt/spring assembly in its original holes or the opposite? Mount the strap solid to the frame and the rubber and spring/bolt assembly to the radiator or does it really matter ??

    I tried the search but had no luck finding an answer.

    Any help would be appreciated and posting pics to show would be worth even more brownie points!!
     
    Rich B. likes this.
  2. If it's not going to sit on the k member, prob something like this...... I'm in the same boat. This is just for reference...... Gives an idea.....
     

    Attached Files:

  3. moparjimd60
    Joined: Jan 22, 2018
    Posts: 71

    moparjimd60

    I moved mine forward by cutting 2 pieces of 3/16” flat and bolted it to the stock holes on the crossmember then drilled holes for the radiator to bolt to moving it 2” forward works like a champ


    Sent from my iPad using H.A.M.B.
     
  4. lostone
    Joined: Oct 13, 2013
    Posts: 1,719

    lostone
    Member
    from kansas

    Thanks guys, I was leaning to the strap to frame method myself. I figure it might be a good idea to add a tack weld to 1 side to keep the straps and radiator from be able to move sideways
     

  5. Corn Fed
    Joined: May 16, 2002
    Posts: 2,991

    Corn Fed
    Member

    I did it by leaving the radiator in the stock location on top of the cross member, moving the engine back, and recessing the firewall.
     
    Nailhead Jason and missysdad1 like this.
  6. 41rodderz
    Joined: Sep 27, 2010
    Posts: 5,419

    41rodderz
    Member
    from Oregon

    LOL
     
  7. missysdad1
    Joined: Dec 9, 2008
    Posts: 3,015

    missysdad1
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I hate it when some smartass chimes in and tells everybody how it should be done the right way. :rolleyes: Corn Fed is right. Moving the radiator forward for engine clearance is the quick and dirty way to get it done but it totally messes with the esthetics of the car, giving it a Pinocchio look. This doesn't seem to bother a lot of guys but it just ruins the car for me. Take Corn Fed's advice and do it right.
     
    Nailhead Jason likes this.
  8. oj
    Joined: Jul 27, 2008
    Posts: 6,257

    oj
    Member

    I made a seperate support for mine inside the shell, that lower support has its own support strap running up to the bracket that bolts to the frame.
    003.JPG
    Heres the outside
    004.JPG
    And the cover that I'll get chromed:
    005.JPG
    That way none of the radiator weight is supported by the shell. the bracket bolting it akk to frame has springs loading the bolts similar to how Ford did it.
     
  9. lostone
    Joined: Oct 13, 2013
    Posts: 1,719

    lostone
    Member
    from kansas

    Thanks guys,

    I don't think 2" will hurt the looks that much, besides I want the interior space. With a 3" channel and a 2 1/2" chop I'd rather keep as much inside room as I can. I want to be somewhat comfy driving it.

    OJ, that's really slick. I like the way you handled it. ;)
     

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