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How would you hone?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by elcamino65, Mar 12, 2011.

  1. elcamino65
    Joined: Jan 24, 2010
    Posts: 277

    elcamino65
    Member
    from washington

    I have a 259 poly that was machined a few years ago .030 and new pistons, you get the drill. well the cyl walls are super smooth and some people said i need to hone them to get the rings to seat. well i dont know what kind of rings they put in it so im not sure what to do. Do i use the ball hone? or the flat stone? or what? there is a tiny bit of rust on the top of a few cyl how should i knock that down. i hope the pictures give an idea
     

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  2. toolman1967
    Joined: Mar 13, 2008
    Posts: 441

    toolman1967
    Member

    I use the ball hone, soak it in fresh oil beforehand and use lots while honing. Spin on high and run in and out at a pretty good rate to get a crosshatch. Might be other thoughts on the subject but thats what I do and have had good luck.
     
  3. Gdog3225
    Joined: Oct 11, 2009
    Posts: 59

    Gdog3225
    Member
    from Tennessee

    I like tool mans idea. I work on diesel engines a lot and we use ball hones. The flat hone would be a good idea to get the rust out. Then use the ball hone to make cross hatches.
     
  4. elcamino65
    Joined: Jan 24, 2010
    Posts: 277

    elcamino65
    Member
    from washington

    I heard the ball hone may be the way to go. maybe ill use the flat to get the rust out. For the ball hone do i just use the regular motor oil or maybe tranny fluid? How many passes should i make through a cyl? just a few? Im not sure how much cross hatch i want to put in it. thanks
     

  5. toolman1967
    Joined: Mar 13, 2008
    Posts: 441

    toolman1967
    Member

    Dont go crazy on it, 5-10 passes up and down should be enough with newly machines cylinders, I use motor oil, seems to work fine for me.
     
  6. Ball hone , vary speeds and I use trans fluid.
     
  7. oldcarfart
    Joined: Apr 12, 2005
    Posts: 1,437

    oldcarfart
    Member

    X2, ball hone only! (does not reshape hole) and tranny fluid makes excellent cutting/drilling/honing/penetrant fluid.
     
  8. rjaustin421
    Joined: May 1, 2009
    Posts: 337

    rjaustin421
    Member

    Use the ball hone and you should have no problems with the rings seating
    You will have a problem with the grit left behind by the ball hone. Get all, and I cannot emphasize all strongly enough, of the residue & grey film off of the cylinders and block. That residue is a big ring, ring land and bearing killer. We used the old and extremely effective soak hot tanks with caustic solution and when a block was pulled out that had not had the cylinders properly cleaned after honing there would be grey residue on the rag when the cylinders were wiped.

    After honing wipe the cylinders of the heavy stuff then spray the cylinders with CRC or WD-40 and wipe with a clean towel until the wipes show no residue. I to this day soak a lint free paper towel in lacquer thinner and wipe each cylinder before assembly...not so good for my hands but I am too thick in the head to wear thin gloves.
     
    Last edited: Mar 13, 2011
  9. elcamino65
    Joined: Jan 24, 2010
    Posts: 277

    elcamino65
    Member
    from washington

    Thanks guys so the ball hone should take care of little rust and rings and not even use the hone with stones.
     
  10. toolman1967
    Joined: Mar 13, 2008
    Posts: 441

    toolman1967
    Member

    Thats correct, just the ball hone, no need to use the stone hone.
     
  11. On any cylinder that has been run, use the ball hone. It will follow the wear tapers and leave the cross thatches even in the taper.
    They are pretty much fail proof!
     
  12. racer32
    Joined: Sep 22, 2007
    Posts: 745

    racer32
    Member

    I'll ask the next question: What grit?
     
  13. unkledaddy
    Joined: Jul 21, 2006
    Posts: 2,865

    unkledaddy
    Member

    I found that going as fast as I could (within reason) left perfect crosshatches using tranny fluid.
     
  14. Bumping this - I have a fresh block that was honed and ready for assembly. It sat for a while and some surface rust has appeared in spots in the cylinders. What grit ball hone should I use to freshen this up before assembly?
     
  15. socalkenny
    Joined: Oct 10, 2009
    Posts: 25

    socalkenny
    Member

    No one addressed this but, you DO have to pull the pistons out of the block to do this! Don't try to do it with it together or it will have problems very shortly after starting.
     
  16. i use kerosene for a hone lube

    also I was tought to use engine oil to clean cyl. wall

    also use duct tape to tape up rod journals on crank[ask how i know oh you can hone the crank too]:eek:
     
  17. Depends on the rings. Some of the newer technology wants a smooth finish.
     
  18. filthy frank
    Joined: Jan 25, 2008
    Posts: 541

    filthy frank
    Member

    use the pink painted one for molly rings , and the red for cast.
     
  19. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 49,504

    squirrel
    Member

    I get to deal with this issue, I have to go thru the engine in my 55 chevy. I'm planning to take it to a machine shop so they can use a rigid hone, and give it a quick cleanup and plateau finish, like it had before. I run plasma ceramic rings in it.

    if you're using moly filled rings, you want a pretty smooth finish. If you're using plain iron rings, then maybe not so smooth would be good. Plain rings would be better in an engine that has some wear in the bores. moly if the bores are in good shape.
     
  20. sdluck
    Joined: Sep 19, 2006
    Posts: 2,778

    sdluck
    Member

    If the cylinder wall is not true the ball hone will make them look good when they are not.
     
  21. 73RR
    Joined: Jan 29, 2007
    Posts: 6,598

    73RR
    Member

    The OP says "I have a 259 poly that was machined a few years ago"...
    Although Chrome ring sets are hard to fine these days, what was used 'a few years ago'? If the rings happen to be chrome then a smooth, lite hatch finish is needed.
    And as mentioned, the engine really needs to be stripped down and properly cleaned after the hone work is finished.

    .
     

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