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How to shorten a horn rod?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Will Kimble, Nov 8, 2012.

  1. Will Kimble
    Joined: Feb 12, 2007
    Posts: 401

    Will Kimble
    Member

    I am planning to use a '35 standard wheel on a stock Model A shaft in a '30 roadster and would like to shorten a '35-36 horn rod to operate the horn and light switch. Probably will have to remove 2-3 inches. Anybody have any tips on how to do this?

    Also, is the taper on the Model A shaft the same as the taper on a V8 shaft? I have read conflicting info on this.

    Thanks,
    Will Kimble
    www.kimblemandolins.com
     
  2. tommy
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 14,757

    tommy
    Member Emeritus

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    I used a reproduction 32 horn rod which I attached to a 36 horn button so that a 39 banjo wheel would operate the original H/L switch.

    It's not easy because the rod is just flimsy rolled sheet metal. You need to de-solder the wire at the bottom and then the wire can be pulled out after the tabs are straightened that hold it to the button. Then it can be cut and shortened. You might be able to re-do the button end to make the tabs that are bent over to hold it to the button. That might be easier than cutting and welding it. Once it's shortened the wire can be put back in, shortened and soldered forming a contact to complete the horn circuit. It can be a PITA but worth it if you have the only one around like it. IMHO

    I had to use the 36 button because the aftermarket horn ring was a 30s accessory made for the the 36 button. It was a challenge but I can pretty much guaranty that it is the only one in the world like it. Yes it worked as the H/L switch and blew the horn too.

    Yes the Ford taper and woodruf key are all the same.
     
    Last edited: Nov 9, 2012
  3. When I installing a banjo steering wheel on my '32 Four door I used a tubing cutter to shorten the horn rod. HRP
     

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