The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Bandit Billy, May 5, 2018.
I have had one in a car for 75,000 miles. No problem..
i have been letting the customers buy any parts that are mail ordered and tell them no warrantee, on the parts or labor but if they want me to order the parts i have to add a mark up.
But on the bright side, you got all 6 steps in the proper sequence.
No help in this case. But on my Lark I could push the pressure plate over center. If I had one of these new internal hydraulic throw out bearings, it would have popped out, maybe. So I drilled and tapped a 1/4-20 hole in my clutch pedal and screwed a long 1/4-20 screw in it. Then I tapped an aluminum hex for the screw and a jam nut. When my clutch was just barely disengaged the hex hit the floor. I could push as hard as I wanted. Not traveling past as far as it needed to go. Had a stop on my roadster also.
Some of the drag racers I knew put stops on the pedal. When speed shifting they pushed it down until it hit the stop and slide their foot off instead of lifting the foot. They claimed it saved time.
I applied a vice clamp tonight and the TO bearing started spewing fluid immediately. The main o ring is evidently bad as is the swivel fitting. So much fun!
McCleod clutches are the best...McCleod Hydraulic TO bearings are pieces of shit. Every one we ever had leaked. I live by them and went back 3 times before we thru it away and installed a RAM. Never had a problem.
If yours came apart it wasn't set up correctly in my opinion but every one we had even after repairs would leak with in a month
If it was easy my little sister would be there doing it.
Lots and lots of people have problems with them.
Lots and lots of people have nothing but flawless service out of them.
I'm guessing one group sets them up pretty good and researches and measures and shims and maybe even reads the directions. The other group can't be bothered with that crap.
Dude, I swear I set this thing up correctly. I even had a buddy back my measurements up. I don't get it.
Is it possible the T O bearing master cylinder delivered too much volume and over stroked it? Sure would be nice to have hard evidence of what went wrong so you have something to correct. Maybe it's just junk?
I don't have anyway to prove either supposition. I know it leaks, I do not know why. I have found evidence of two sources of leakage, the lower swivel and the main thrust bearing. that is all I know thus far.
Yeah or Jet Blue.
Do you have a positive pedal stop so it won't travel too far?That seems to be the biggest issue.
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Just keep sipping away at the bottle your wife thoughtfully got for you.
Having been in the aircraft flight test business for many years, I take the term "aircraft Quality" with a grain of salt. Aircraft quality fasteners are job rated and can run the gamut from low grade hardware to grade 8 or supertainium. The location and load generate the Mil. spec for that fastener. I remember when I worked at Rockwell on the B-1B program. we had engineers that would come up with the most weird and uncommon fasteners just because the found it listed in the aircraft fastener book. If you have an aircraft quality fastener and are unsure of the real quality, check it out. You may have a tremendous bolt or one Ace Hardware would be suspicious of.
Man,that is a well detailed engine and tranny, the whole car is a knockout!
I have had the same problem in the past and another hamber told be about using a mustang clutch cable,it has worked flawless for the past 7 years now. HRP
Bummer you're stuck in T.O. hell. Does McCloud service these or are they disposables? If so, send it back for them to rebuild then there's no BS "sat too long" excuse.
Thanks again guys. I called the tech at McLeod and he gave me the part number of the seal kit I need to purchase. Summit had them in stock so two days from now I can rebuild the TO.
It is too early in the day for a tasty beverage to wash down my crow so I'll have to eat it dry. It appears I caused the leaky bearing. Remember it has been years since I installed the bearing and thus years since I discarded the instructions. Long story short, I filled the remote reservoir with DOT 5 which I had planned to use on the brakes as well. McLeod insists on DOT 3 or 4, NEVER DOT 5! The silicone causes the o ring material to expand and when it does they tear during operation causing the leaks.
I did this to myself by using the wrong fluid. Learn from my error.
$20 bucks for the seal kit, a ruined Saturday afternoon, finding out you caused your own issue...priceless.
So dot 3&4 doubles as paint remover
Hopefully after the rebuild and the new DOT 3 he won't have any leaks of that paint remover.
I know, I was trying to avoid the stuff. You think that in the 21st century we would have developed a brake fluid that isn't corrosive and still protects the internal seals. I am thinking about running plastic shelf liner under the remote reservoir until I am comfortable that there is no leak there. I don't want to repaint the firewall. The rest of the TOB line is not on painted surface other then the side of the transmission and I could line it as well until I am confident there are no leaks.
Hmm, if I read you correctly, you filled it for the first time Friday and it leaked immediately? That doesn't sound like seal swell and tear, not that quick. My Dot 5 experience is limited but I have used it in place of 3/4 to avoid paint issues and nothing ever happened, at least not in minutes.
I don't buy it completely either but I will know more when I take it apart. I just watched a you tube on the process, pretty simple.
Shame you're having this issue, especially with such a beautifully well detailed car.
Re-doing something usually is never any fun, but the not knowing if even the second time around is going to fix the issue, is what can keep you up at night.
I have decided to test the unit after rebuilding it by clamping the piston and pressurizing the bearing with the M/C.
I also need to construct a pedal stop. I will rig one temporarily to protect against over travel. I will incorporate the clutch interlock switch into the final version and get it plated. Right now while the motor is out I have plenty of room to drill and build that set up.
we had several to fail on silicone
the boss finally listened to the instructions
its was still our fault
Shops that do vinyl car wraps can probably set you up with vinyl material that is close in color to your paint so the vinyl is unobtrusive. Sorry you are having to go through this, if the first time you filled the reservoir was Friday and you immediately had o rings blow out, I dont buy that they swelled and tore that quickly. Maybe the type of material those seals are made out of will react that quickly. But, either way, the good news is that you immediately had a problem and not while you are driving around town and end up needing to limp it or tow it.
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